29er wheels

Ackland

Likes Bikes and Dirt
DT Swiss 240 hubs are great until you need to change the drive side bearing. Had a shop remove the ring nut then put it back in wrong, now wheel locks up when the skewer is tightened. The shop is 450km away so no going back, and it only cost $50 to do one bearing. Bikes been out of action for two weeks as local bike shops don't have the tool. Might look at Hope hubs in future
Explain how that's a problem with the hub.....
 

The Duckmeister

Eats Squid
There are a number of variables (all are interactive) and affect both lateral and radial stiffness to varying degrees. So its hard to give a definitive answer.

Might pay to read through the link Kenif posted earlier: http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Debunking_Wheel_Stiffness_3449.html

Personally I'd go with the builders recommendation. Not sure why you are so set on a particular lace pattern but all things being equal, there is bugger all weight difference, visually as well.

I've noticed no apparent lateral difference between 2 and 3 cross on road wheels (for 32 or 36 spoke counts) or BMX race wheels (32 spoke).

My wheel building bible (Professional Guide to Wheelbuiding by Roger Musson) states:" ...use a standard lacing pattern (2 cross, 3 cross, 4 cross) and the decision which to use is based solely on the number of spokes in the wheel."

Might be worth contacting Duckmeister on this forum, he has has experience in the wheel building industry.
Late to this thread, but here goes (and thanks for the nod, still waiting for enquiries though).

I consider the crossover point between 2x & 3x being suitable to be 28 spokes. More than that you'd go 3x, because otherwise you reduce the tangent angle off the hub too much (i.e. closer to radial), and can begin to suffer wheel wind-up under drive & brake loads. Below 28 spokes there's a greater tangent angle, so you can get away with 2x without any real effect on torsional strength. With 28 spokes you could go either way.

Variation in lateral stiffness will be more to do with the number of spokes than the cross pattern, although 2x is marginally stiffer due to the slightly more direct pull between rim & hub - shorter spokes are less stretchy. Spoke choice plays a part too; different gauges & profiles will behave differently, even similar-profiled spokes from different manufacturers will behave differently!
 
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softek

Likes Dirt
DT Swiss 240 hubs are great until you need to change the drive side bearing. Had a shop remove the ring nut then put it back in wrong, now wheel locks up when the skewer is tightened. The shop is 450km away so no going back, and it only cost $50 to do one bearing. Bikes been out of action for two weeks as local bike shops don't have the tool. Might look at Hope hubs in future
Buy the kit from fleebay and do it yourself, kit is $70 and its really really easy to change over, step by step instruction on dt swiss website and plenty you tube videos show you want to do, dt swiss 240 hubs are really one of the best hubs going around. you be going backwards if you go hopes really.
 

Gerokit

Likes Bikes
Not serviceable without special$60 tool

Buy the kit from fleebay and do it yourself, kit is $70 and its really really easy to change over, step by step instruction on dt swiss website and plenty you tube videos show you want to do, dt swiss 240 hubs are really one of the best hubs going around. you be going backwards if you go hopes really.
Servicing the hub isn't possible unless you have the special ring nut tool. That's when I take it to LBS and they don't have the tool. Can't see the point of buying the tool as would only ever use it once. I rely on LBs to have the tools for the bikes they sell.
 

Ackland

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Edited....

Hmmm....
Not sure how they put it in backwards.
Have you contacted the shop who serviced it to ask if they'll cover the cost of postage to remedy the problem?
 
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Bodin

GMBC
Explain how that's a problem with the hub.....
Excellent question. I'm still waiting to hear the answer.

I beat the hell out of 2 pairs of DT240 hubs for years - even rode a pair of them across the Simpson Desert in 2004 and after a simple clean and service, they came up looking and working like new. Sold both sets on complete bikes when I decided to go 100% 29er and have regretted it ever since.

If some muppet at a bike shop managed to f*** one of my hubs up, there'd be no question that they'd be paying for all of the postage (or fuel) costs involved in rectifying the issue. I certainly wouldn't be downgrading to Hope* as a result.


*I've also had Hope Pro II hubs, which are really nice, but given the choice, I'd take DT240 every time.
 
29er wheelset recommendation for a 100kg rider on Carbon HT

Hi all, I’m a 100kg rider on a BMC Teamelite te02 29er Carbon HT, comes stock with DT Swiss 466d with Deore hubs. Rims say 515g each plus hubs. I ride mostly trails. Was thinking of upgrading the wheel set. Suggestions under $1500.00? Am I too heavy for lighter carbon rims or a lighter wheel set all together? Should I keep the 466d and upgrade the hubs, maybe to DT240's?

Saw these on Pushys: Reynolds 29" TR Carbon Wheelset $1349.99 are Reynolds Hubs good?

reynolds-trail-29inch-wheelset-REYWSTRAIL-W29-SHI.jpg
 

Big JD

Wheel size expert
I am 100kgs on a HT and currently run Stans Flows on King hubs. They have been bombproof. I have even thinking of lightening up my wheels. They must be close to 2kgs. I could ditch the rims for some Chickity China carbon ones and perhaps loose 100 grams per wheel but around $7 per gram.
Us big blokes can dream of light wheel sets but the reality is disappointing.
You can get some hopes on light carbons for around $1300. There are a pair here in the classifieds for $850. Can't comment on Reynolds sorry.
Unless you are racing and looking to podium I would suggest the strength before light weight should be your priority. If you run wider rims you might also run wider tyres at less pressure. This will add more comfort and grip to your HT- bonus
 

slimjim1

Likes Dirt
Hi all, I’m a 100kg rider on a BMC Teamelite te02 29er Carbon HT, comes stock with DT Swiss 466d with Deore hubs. Rims say 515g each plus hubs. I ride mostly trails. Was thinking of upgrading the wheel set. Suggestions under $1500.00? Am I too heavy for lighter carbon rims or a lighter wheel set all together? Should I keep the 466d and upgrade the hubs, maybe to DT240's?

Saw these on Pushys: Reynolds 29" TR Carbon Wheelset $1349.99 are Reynolds Hubs good?

View attachment 320769
Maybe a set of these?

http://www.specialized.com/au/en-au/ftb/mtb-wheels/roval-mtb-xc-race/roval-control-29-carbon

Smack bang on your $1,500 budget. Hand built with DT swiss ratchet hubs. Even though the website lists them as 'XC race', I have a set on my stumpy which I beat hard and they have held up better than any other wheelset I've run in the past. Running 23psi front 28psi rear. Maybe a little narrow by today's standards but still a healthy 23mm internal width.
 

creaky

The obviative
Maybe a set of these?

http://www.specialized.com/au/en-au/ftb/mtb-wheels/roval-mtb-xc-race/roval-control-29-carbon

Smack bang on your $1,500 budget. Hand built with DT swiss ratchet hubs. Even though the website lists them as 'XC race', I have a set on my stumpy which I beat hard and they have held up better than any other wheelset I've run in the past. Running 23psi front 28psi rear. Maybe a little narrow by today's standards but still a healthy 23mm internal width.
I have a set of these and the more expensive SL versions as well. The SLs are a much nicer wheel i.e. nicer ride feel and noticeably stiffer. I've had a couple of spoke breakage periods on the non-SL rear one but specialized have been great with warranty. I would highly recommend them for XC use generally ... but .... I'm 80 kegs and wouldn't suggest either set for a 100kg rider due to flex and potential breakage. Roval do have a 'Traverse' (I think) version which is slightly heavier wider rim that may be better for a 100kg rider.
 

slimjim1

Likes Dirt
I have a set of these and the more expensive SL versions as well. The SLs are a much nicer wheel i.e. nicer ride feel and noticeably stiffer. I've had a couple of spoke breakage periods on the non-SL rear one but specialized have been great with warranty. I would highly recommend them for XC use generally ... but .... I'm 80 kegs and wouldn't suggest either set for a 100kg rider due to flex and potential breakage. Roval do have a 'Traverse' (I think) version which is slightly heavier wider rim that may be better for a 100kg rider.
I was always under the impression the SLs were a true race wheel. Interesting you find them stiffer despite lower spoke count.

The SL's and the traverse carbon fatties run up to the $2,000 mark though so bit beyond budget.

I had a set of the older non-fattie alloy traverses and they were utter poo. Admittedly they were the low end machine built versions on the specialized hi-lo hubs, but yeah, the flex was ridiculous, hubs were rubbish, they sucked a fat one.
 

Boxer

Likes Dirt
Agreed with creaky - I have both and the SL's are stiffer and smoother due to extra width in the rim. Great wheels I'm only 74kgs though
 
Us big blokes can dream of light wheel sets but the reality is disappointing.
Guys firstly thanks for your replies. I haven't had much experience with wheels other than stock ones, and haven't experienced flex or stiffness issues - or don't ride hard enough to feel it. I suppose I just have FOMO. Am I missing out by not experiencing better hubs then? Do they make a big difference in the ride/rolling or is it more to do with longevity and serviceability? M
 

The Duckmeister

Eats Squid
Hi all, I’m a 100kg rider on a BMC Teamelite te02 29er Carbon HT, comes stock with DT Swiss 466d with Deore hubs. Rims say 515g each plus hubs. I ride mostly trails. Was thinking of upgrading the wheel set. Suggestions under $1500.00? Am I too heavy for lighter carbon rims or a lighter wheel set all together? Should I keep the 466d and upgrade the hubs, maybe to DT240's?

Saw these on Pushys: Reynolds 29" TR Carbon Wheelset $1349.99 are Reynolds Hubs good?

View attachment 320769
I haven't met any of the Reynolds MTB wheels, but have reasonably frequent meetings with road wheels. Rims & hubs are reasonable, but their spokes & assembly is .... well.... a bit shit. Like most manufacturers of carbon wheels, they build with aluminium nipples, which is A Really Bad Idea, and the bloody things explode, disintegrate, take spokes out with them and basically do everything that spoke nipples are not supposed to do.
 
Us big blokes can dream of light wheel sets but the reality is disappointing.
Thanks all for your reply. Perhaps I would be better off just getting some new hubs until I loose more weight. I have only ridden on low range hubs/wheels so don't really know the difference. Do better hubs make much difference? Do more engagement points help? I think I just have FOMO.
 
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