4X Parts Thread.

feltq650 said:
hmmm thats almost half way to a pair of 831's...
I'll see what monza says.
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I remember them being at around the $250 mark, but i'd be more inclined to spend $350 on second hand Pikes, and then just mix and match internals and lowers.
 
nick_dales said:
I remember them being at around the $250 mark, but i'd be more inclined to spend $350 on second hand Pikes, and then just mix and match internals and lowers.
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Knowing my luck my internals would be flogged out too. Yeah I think that might be the go. Probably more economical but with a bit more mucking around.
 
Yes, but no. The frame already has inbuilt tensioners (the funny circle where the wheel slots in). Pretty much you place them either side of the frame with the axle going through them and the separate part connected to the screw pushes against the back of your dropout pulling the chain tight. It also helps stop rear wheel slippage.
 
parker93 said:
Yes, but no. The frame already has inbuilt tensioners (the funny circle where the wheel slots in). Pretty much you place them either side of the frame with the axle going through them and the separate part connected to the screw pushes against the back of your dropout pulling the chain tight. It also helps stop rear wheel slippage.
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I'm looking to run gears with a 10mm axle.

So will I need 2 or just 1 chain tug?
 
The ones in the frame work similiar to ones on a motorbike, being the tugs push the axle towards the rear of the dropouts, using a screw thread as a means of controlling how far back the tugs move. The tugs are built into the chainstay, at the end of the dropout closest to the BB.

Because your running gears, you don't have any need for a tensioner, even the ones that come on the frame, just run the wheel as forward in the dropouts as possible.
 
RYDA said:
Would that setup be prone to the wheel coming out of the horizontal dropouts?
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Running tugs may not help because the amount of slack you will have on the chain so you can run gears. It can allow the axle and tugs to move away from the frame. With horizontal dropouts its best to run singlespeed as the chain tension, along with the axle and tugs allows everything to be solid.
 
He's running a 10mm through axle rear end also, not the bolt up that most people would run on that frame... hence the concern
 
DRIBS said:
Trent, I'd just add the cost of a new hub into the budget.
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Or just a new axle? Just need 10mm bolt up basically.

I think I do?

EDIT: Its a UMF DH Pro rear hub.

Anyone know that this is a rebadged DT Swiss 240s? Please say yes...
 
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