Advice please: Bring 10yr old bike into 2008!

[AngoXC]

Yes, there were quill setups in 1", 1-1/8", even 1-1/4".

Hey, thats pretty good news if Justin did infact want to use a suspention fork. Although I think upgrading forks would definatly count as 'over capitalising' on the bike. When the thread first came up and he mentioned singlespeed, i thought of this;

I mean thats pretty much what it could turn out like...fairly inexpensive also...

Humm...

 

[Turner_rider]

1-1/8" Quill stems aren't even remotely rare (well, weren't anyway).

Yep they are pretty easy to find in a multitude of fashionable anno colours although 120mm is considered short...

1" and 1 1/4" quill mtb stems are also very easy to find as long as you are happy with a 135mm length.

 

[Justin Fox]

It's a 1 1/8th.

floody - awesome posts!

A set of semi-decent 2nd hand suspension forks won't cost me too much (say $100-150) and I'm more excited about owning some as I've never had suspension on a bike before. Modifying the bike is more exciting to me right now.

I love modifying things and bikes are a lot cheaper to modify than cars are!!!!!!!

Here are my 2 modified cars. Both started out dead stock:

My S2K

My GT-R

 

[floody]

Wow I like the GT-R.... But I'm seeing a pattern here...You think you're 1997 bike is old fashioned and I'm resurrecting one from 1994; you call an R32 old and I'm playing with a HR31 GTS coupe, haha...

So, perhaps I'm not the most objective person when it comes to overcapitalising on old stuff, haha. But then I don't think you're starting out with something completely or fundamentally outmoded.

Anyway, back on topic... If you wanted more choice in stems, a modern, lightish, fairly generic XC rigid fork and threadless headset setup wouldn't be a bad or expensive idea.
Cheap older suspension forks (as in $100-150) may be more of a liability than a help..uh oh, I'm being a bit over pragmatic there, but its fairly true.

Anyway, basically apart from the lack of discs ( but no reason a good set of vees wouldn't be adequate for trail work) theres nothing really against you in making it more modern, apart from how much you want to spend. Really if you start changing a lot of major bits, you will begin approaching the cost of a low-mid range new mtb, which will be pretty much on a par or better performance wise...but theres nothing fundamentally wrong with the hardrock frame itself.

Also if you're staying rigids, thats all cool too. Run a large but fast rolling tyre, I suggest Schwalbe Tabletop 2.25 folding or Specialized Fasttrak 2.0 folding, be somewhat circumspect in line choice and there is nowhere a rigid bike can't go. A wide set of handlebars - risers will feel odd with that 120mm stem so stay flat - wouldn't be a bad idea for control, something like Titec Enduro flat bars or anything else a bit more than race-width.
Or a 90-110mm stem and 1.5" riser bar combo would work.


Anyway, you're not totally flogging a dead horse.

 

[jdc5r]

there goes justin showing off again

 

[Justin Fox]

Hi guys. I have a billion more questions, but many I've managed to figure out through searching on the internet. I thought I'd ask a few more q's in here instead of littering the forum with more noob posts.

A few things that I've decided to do:

- Strip the bike and paint the frame.
- Go a single front ring (remove derailleur and shifter).
- Convert to threadless stem so I can use shox, disc brakes, new stem

I bought a stand from Torpedo7 and it's been a great help:

Just to test: I took off the small and large rings, and the derailleur, re-tuned the rear derailleur and went for a ride around the block and it's all working AOK. I have won a DMR front chain guide from eBay and will bung that on once the frame is resprayed.

OK, so everything has come off the bike EXCEPT THE DRIVE SIDE CRANK!

Yup, I stripped the thread in the crank. I've read up on it, seems like I'm not the only one to have done this. I tried a combination of everything suggested short of buying a gear puller but it wouldn't budge (riding it without the main bolt holding it together, boiling water, heat gun, WD40).

I've dropped it off at the local bike store and they're currently taking it off for me now.

OK so question. My drive side crank is stuffed. Can I just buy new cranks (well, 2nd hand ones?). I'm seriously thinking about going the single speed conversion now, but still not sure. A lot of the single speed kits say that they are for an 8/9 speed but my bike's so old it's a 7 speed cassette on the rear.

Any help appreciated on the matter. I assume if I get a new cog/gear anywhere (front or single speed rear) that I really should replace the chain, rear cassette and front gear too all at the same time. Might as well do the BB too right?

PS: The chain was not replaced despite being so old the bike shop guy said it's "fine".
PPS: I weighed the bike as is with all parts and it's spot on 12kg's.
PPPS: LOL Floody, awesome stuff! I can see a link between bikes and cars for sure.

 

[brennanridesbikes]

noone ever expected it to turn out as it did...

 

[Steepy]

My GT-R[/QUOTE]

Hey did anyone else notice the ghosts in the background of this pic?

"ppppppirate ghosts!"

 

[ozzybmx]

my old bike from a long time ago .......

i sourced new elastomers (for shock absorbers) , new tyres , seat , bars ...ect ....

no comparison to the bikes of today ....SOLD

(for a decent price too)

 

[Justin Fox]

What a grave dig!!!

Ah man what a nice bike. I'd love to do something whack with that as it's whack to start with!

 

[Cooch]

Hi guys. I have a billion more questions, .....

OK, so everything has come off the bike EXCEPT THE DRIVE SIDE CRANK!

I've dropped it off at the local bike store and they're currently taking it off for me now.

OK so question. My drive side crank is stuffed. Can I just buy new cranks (well, 2nd hand ones?).

It really depends on whether the axle through the bottom bracket gets damaged when they remove the crank arm. By the looks of it, it will be an old school square taper... (am I right?). If so, things should be ok... so buying new cranks will be the cheaper option.

That said, I've seen up to date bottom brackets and cranksets go for $50 on ebay - new race face and hussefelt gear. So just stay tuned on ebay.

 

[AngoXC]

Sorry to burst your bubble man but his bike has come a reasonable way since this thread. Click his 'SS build' link in his sig.

 

[Cooch]

Cool. No worries.