Ivan
Eats Squid
What kind of surface do you ride on? I hear WTB has some new UST ready tyres for 2011
All Mountain Tyres
- Thread starter tasty.dirt74
- Start date
placebo
Likes Dirt
I'll add another vote for the 2.4 rubber queens. The black chili compound is very grippy and wears surprisingly well. The side protection in the carcass works well too. I haven't had anything penetrate or tear the side wall, unlike the 2.2 mountain kings I've used. They're a very tight fit on the mavic rims I've used them on, and I haven't been able to burp them.
outtacontrol
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Looks like a fun bit of trail, but I thought you guys were going to get passed by my grandma any minute.
tasty.dirt74
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Each person will have their own ideas about what is the best way to go.
Tubeless rim/tubeless tyre will be the best bet for a failsafe setup.
In saying that.....
I have run tubeless wheels(crossmax SX) with UST tyres(Hutchinson Barracuda),and burped the tyre,leading to a pinched sidewall due to lower than normal air pressure.Same wheels with Eskar 2bliss tyres, which I found to be too thin in the sidewall, which got lots of nicks and small tears in the sidewall.
Mavic 317 done ghetto, with homemade solution,fitted with non ust larsens, and they were great.
Mavic 723, ghetto again with 2.7 minions. Worked well, until I didnt ride it for a couple of weeks, and a mysterious leak appeared through the spoke nipples. They were done with the "tyre tube cut down to form the innerliner" method with tape over the spoke holes.
TWE wheels ,done ghetto with non UST larsen TT's worked well through a few endurance races, never had a problem...
Lighter tyres MAY suit a lighter,or should I say,smoother rider than someone who "plows" through the rough. Some light tyres flex too much through the sidewall, and can feel "wallowy". They may conversely, give a little bit more comfort due to the sidewall acting like a little bit more suspension. So, different riders riding the same tyre may feel totally opposite to each other, due to their riding style.
Pity they are so expensive !!
Its hard to test tyres, as you dont really want to waste money on trial and error. That could be why some riders stay with the same type of tyre for years, as they think they are "on a good thing"with their tyre of choice,even if new compounds, and technologies are discovered..
Thats why this thread is so important !!!! It helps all riders make decisions..... or confuses the hell out of them !!
Tubeless rim/tubeless tyre will be the best bet for a failsafe setup.
In saying that.....
I have run tubeless wheels(crossmax SX) with UST tyres(Hutchinson Barracuda),and burped the tyre,leading to a pinched sidewall due to lower than normal air pressure.Same wheels with Eskar 2bliss tyres, which I found to be too thin in the sidewall, which got lots of nicks and small tears in the sidewall.
Mavic 317 done ghetto, with homemade solution,fitted with non ust larsens, and they were great.
Mavic 723, ghetto again with 2.7 minions. Worked well, until I didnt ride it for a couple of weeks, and a mysterious leak appeared through the spoke nipples. They were done with the "tyre tube cut down to form the innerliner" method with tape over the spoke holes.
TWE wheels ,done ghetto with non UST larsen TT's worked well through a few endurance races, never had a problem...
Lighter tyres MAY suit a lighter,or should I say,smoother rider than someone who "plows" through the rough. Some light tyres flex too much through the sidewall, and can feel "wallowy". They may conversely, give a little bit more comfort due to the sidewall acting like a little bit more suspension. So, different riders riding the same tyre may feel totally opposite to each other, due to their riding style.
Pity they are so expensive !!
Its hard to test tyres, as you dont really want to waste money on trial and error. That could be why some riders stay with the same type of tyre for years, as they think they are "on a good thing"with their tyre of choice,even if new compounds, and technologies are discovered..
Thats why this thread is so important !!!! It helps all riders make decisions..... or confuses the hell out of them !!
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Nerf Herder
Wheel size expert
yeah ... not sure if its my gauge ... one gauge (older one) says 40 the other (newer one) says 32.
I kinda don't believe the newer one, but I flat or burp if I'm under 40 on the older one.
re-tubeless ... I've never experienced the supposed benefit of being able to run lower pressures on tubeless. I've run full UST with sealant on my DH, and I still need to run high pressures... I hate dinging rims ... especially my pretty ones.
I've had mixed results with my AM and trail wheels I find standard crossmarks will bead up with everything I've tried, but will burp if under 40psi (see above).
My nevs are UST, on non ust rims with rim strip ... and no sealant (I inflated as a test and it went straight up so didn't bother putting any sealant in ... been about 4 months, with only minor tops ups when I remember.
I tried some hutchinson ... cobra I think ... UST (but not light UST or whatever they call it ... WTF is the difference) ... and they just sucked ... wouldn't bead on the SLRs with anything (compressor, sealant, soap, curses)
So depends on the rim and tire (sorry)
MrCove
South Shore Distribution
my combo is 2.35 HighRoller front, 2.25 CrossMark rear
i run them on 2 pairs of wheel, DT5.1 rims and Sun RhynoLIte XL's
both ghetto tubeless, about 30-35psi
never burped them off
i generally DON'T run UST versions of the tyre but have a couple at the momment, purely because when i went to buy some that's all they had in the shop
ride almost 100% loose over hard
not experienced any of the cornering problems described above, work great for me
i run them on 2 pairs of wheel, DT5.1 rims and Sun RhynoLIte XL's
both ghetto tubeless, about 30-35psi
never burped them off
i generally DON'T run UST versions of the tyre but have a couple at the momment, purely because when i went to buy some that's all they had in the shop
ride almost 100% loose over hard
not experienced any of the cornering problems described above, work great for me
Wiffle
Likes Dirt
RE Tubeless
I've run lots of standard tyres tubeless with little or no trouble, as long as:
1. The sidewall is 60tpi or less, or
2. The sidewall is 120tpi but has an abrasion resistant outer surface (snakeskin, duraskin, etc).
3. The chosen rim has a "shoulder" for the bead to sit onto, rather than just relying on air pressure to keep it in place. Best rims to date have been Stans, WTB laserdisc, DT's are just ok. The new Spank rims look like they should work well, but yet to try. 3 years on tubeless, 3 burps in total (all either inconsequential, or running less than 20 psi and riding like a kook).
Currently riding Fat Albert 2.4's at 22psi front, 26psi rear, all good and excellent traction and compliance. I weigh about 70kg with gear. FWIW
I've run lots of standard tyres tubeless with little or no trouble, as long as:
1. The sidewall is 60tpi or less, or
2. The sidewall is 120tpi but has an abrasion resistant outer surface (snakeskin, duraskin, etc).
3. The chosen rim has a "shoulder" for the bead to sit onto, rather than just relying on air pressure to keep it in place. Best rims to date have been Stans, WTB laserdisc, DT's are just ok. The new Spank rims look like they should work well, but yet to try. 3 years on tubeless, 3 burps in total (all either inconsequential, or running less than 20 psi and riding like a kook).
Currently riding Fat Albert 2.4's at 22psi front, 26psi rear, all good and excellent traction and compliance. I weigh about 70kg with gear. FWIW
petertronica
Likes Dirt
my 2c..
I've been running tubeless for several years now on the AM and DH bike (I'm 75kg with gear):
AM bike - Mavic 819 rims
Maxxis larsen LUST 2.0 - I found the sidewall weak and dinged my rim when one tyre mysteriously lost a little pressure on a ride. Not that impressed with grip or rolling resistance. Seals very well. Bit narrow for 2.0.
Maxxis Ignitor 2.35 (but actually more like 2.25) LUST - Great grip, good as front or rear tyre. Rolls kinda slow though. Bit heavy at 800g. Seals very well.
Maxxis Minion 2.35 (also more like 2.25) 42a single-ply - Excellent front tyre, really grippy, enough rubber to really roll through stuff. Compromise is it's a tad heavy at 820g and rolls kinda slow. Sealed really well but needed a fair bit of sealant.
(Next bit maybe more relevant to the DHers, but whatever..)
DH bike - F: Stans Flow R:Mavic 823
Found the flow rim a real pain to seal once I'd straightened a tiny ding. Never had this problem with mavics. My 819 is dinged and flat spotted to hell, and still seals perfectly.
Maxxis minions dual-ply 2.35 and 2.5 - both seal up fine tubeless. Obviously these are DH tyres, I took the front for an xc ride once, NEVER AGAIN. The rolling resistance nearly killed me trying to keep up with the xc whippets (but maybe you're fitter than I am...)
Will be trying some Maxxis Aspens 2.25 next, heard good things about these.
I've been running tubeless for several years now on the AM and DH bike (I'm 75kg with gear):
AM bike - Mavic 819 rims
Maxxis larsen LUST 2.0 - I found the sidewall weak and dinged my rim when one tyre mysteriously lost a little pressure on a ride. Not that impressed with grip or rolling resistance. Seals very well. Bit narrow for 2.0.
Maxxis Ignitor 2.35 (but actually more like 2.25) LUST - Great grip, good as front or rear tyre. Rolls kinda slow though. Bit heavy at 800g. Seals very well.
Maxxis Minion 2.35 (also more like 2.25) 42a single-ply - Excellent front tyre, really grippy, enough rubber to really roll through stuff. Compromise is it's a tad heavy at 820g and rolls kinda slow. Sealed really well but needed a fair bit of sealant.
(Next bit maybe more relevant to the DHers, but whatever..)
DH bike - F: Stans Flow R:Mavic 823
Found the flow rim a real pain to seal once I'd straightened a tiny ding. Never had this problem with mavics. My 819 is dinged and flat spotted to hell, and still seals perfectly.
Maxxis minions dual-ply 2.35 and 2.5 - both seal up fine tubeless. Obviously these are DH tyres, I took the front for an xc ride once, NEVER AGAIN. The rolling resistance nearly killed me trying to keep up with the xc whippets (but maybe you're fitter than I am...)
Will be trying some Maxxis Aspens 2.25 next, heard good things about these.
bikeyoulongtime
Likes Dirt
tyres I've used:
maxxis Ardent 2.25 front and rear. I agree with previous posters on the 'can be a little loose as a rear tyre if things are slick', but for 90% of riding they are fast, grippy, predictable. I have managed to put holes the sidewalls though...
kenda nevegal 2.35, stick-e front dtc rear: relatively new combo for me, only had them on for a few rides, including the brakeburner at buller last weekend. A whole new level of grip plus very predictable slide! only downside so far is overcoming the tremendous grip on the earth when climbing. You can get nearly as much grip from the ardents, but you need to run 5 or so fewer pounds in them
intense system 4 DTC, 2.25: great and grippy, but not as confidence inspiring for me as the ardents. I reckon ardents are a bit faster rolling and can take a hard corner better. I've also put holes in the sidewalls of these puppies.
maxxis larsen, 2.35 [various of wire bead, kevlar, ??]: awesome on hard trails or that awesome tacky dirt found at places like majura or mt buller. not great on loose rocky stuff aka mt wellington or loads of wet sticks and slick clay aka the local trails.
test platform for all these tyres: on-one 456, ~140mm in the forks. All with tubes and an 85-90 kg pilot. Usage 'all mountain' in the ride up anything/down anything sense, be it rocks, roots, small drops, stairs, skinnies, logs, untracked bush with surprise big rocks, ?? rather than the 2m drop to flat/15 foot gap sense...
update: been running a kenda karma 2.25 DTC on the rear, nevegal stick-e 2.35 front. its been a winner so far, although I don't think I'd like a karma on the front.. must try!
cheers n beers!
maxxis Ardent 2.25 front and rear. I agree with previous posters on the 'can be a little loose as a rear tyre if things are slick', but for 90% of riding they are fast, grippy, predictable. I have managed to put holes the sidewalls though...
kenda nevegal 2.35, stick-e front dtc rear: relatively new combo for me, only had them on for a few rides, including the brakeburner at buller last weekend. A whole new level of grip plus very predictable slide! only downside so far is overcoming the tremendous grip on the earth when climbing. You can get nearly as much grip from the ardents, but you need to run 5 or so fewer pounds in them
intense system 4 DTC, 2.25: great and grippy, but not as confidence inspiring for me as the ardents. I reckon ardents are a bit faster rolling and can take a hard corner better. I've also put holes in the sidewalls of these puppies.
maxxis larsen, 2.35 [various of wire bead, kevlar, ??]: awesome on hard trails or that awesome tacky dirt found at places like majura or mt buller. not great on loose rocky stuff aka mt wellington or loads of wet sticks and slick clay aka the local trails.
test platform for all these tyres: on-one 456, ~140mm in the forks. All with tubes and an 85-90 kg pilot. Usage 'all mountain' in the ride up anything/down anything sense, be it rocks, roots, small drops, stairs, skinnies, logs, untracked bush with surprise big rocks, ?? rather than the 2m drop to flat/15 foot gap sense...
update: been running a kenda karma 2.25 DTC on the rear, nevegal stick-e 2.35 front. its been a winner so far, although I don't think I'd like a karma on the front.. must try!
cheers n beers!
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floody
Wheel size expert
Easily the worst tyres I have used in recent memory. I gave mine away to someone I didn't like.
tasty.dirt74
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Really ? What was so wrong with it ?
What sort of conditions are you riding in ?
Sorry for the questions....... just interested.. Maybe nobby nics would be better. I thought Scwalbe's were the shizz !
I changed over to them after lots of flats on ruff rocky trails.I have found them very good on everything I ride.But thats just my opinion the Schwable tubes also hold good presure.I was running 2 front and back but with a drop in presures I was getting frame rub so the intense was fitted to the rear.
I used to use Nokia Gazzaloddi 2.35 (actually closer to 2.5) ?50a?, pattern was really nice and grippy for AM, but had slightly elevated roll resistance. I managed to drive some 5000 km with them without wearing them out! My favorite snow-tyres.
I sometimes tried my favorite routes with heavy (900-1500g) and soft (40a-42a) dh-tyres for fun. We'll it wasn't much of fun long straight stretches but you know on downhills... could say continental digga runs pretty well and continental rain king does not.
Favorite combo was definitely 60a minion f/high roller 2.35 from Maxxis. Every now and then the combo surprises me in slippery situations with unexpected grip. Novakki recommends!
I sometimes tried my favorite routes with heavy (900-1500g) and soft (40a-42a) dh-tyres for fun. We'll it wasn't much of fun long straight stretches but you know on downhills... could say continental digga runs pretty well and continental rain king does not.
Favorite combo was definitely 60a minion f/high roller 2.35 from Maxxis. Every now and then the combo surprises me in slippery situations with unexpected grip. Novakki recommends!
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