Arm of derailure contacting cassette

how do we know its NOT BOTH issues occurring simultaneously?!

........it would be one for the fuckwits thread thats for sure :D
Cos the alignment block is 110% in the right spot. It's not my first rodeo, just my first on more than 9spd

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Cos the alignment block is 110% in the right spot. It's not my first rodeo, just my first on more than 9spd �� ��

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

ok pardner...;)

also dont forget to trim your mech cable cause its fouling with your spokes :D
 
Geeez, turn your back for a little while and it turns into knife fight that only Michael Jackson would approve ... :wacko:

[video=youtube;AXq_Na9_MHE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXq_Na9_MHE[/video]
 
A flatter angle might make it clear the cassette.

derailleur1.jpg
 
Unlikely to solve it, just move the problem. Might gain clearance for the cable arm, but then the top jockey wheel won't clear the sprocket. Shimano 10-sp. derailleurs are only designed for a maximum sprocket of 36T; anything bigger introduces the probability for the problem the OP is having.
 
Unlikely to solve it, just move the problem. Might gain clearance for the cable arm, but then the top jockey wheel won't clear the sprocket. Shimano 10-sp. derailleurs are only designed for a maximum sprocket of 36T; anything bigger introduces the probability for the problem the OP is having.

I ran mine with a 40T no problem didn't need goat link or extended b screw.

Think we all wait with bated breath for the OP to release the details of his findings lol
 
I ran mine with a 40T no problem didn't need goat link or extended b screw.

Think we all wait with bated breath for the OP to release the details of his findings lol
I tried twice. Once with Zee, once with XT middy, neither worked for me with a 40t (my boys 2 bikes). One is now goat linked, one rad caged.
I keep hearing some people got it to work, not me. Are you sram?
 
I tried twice. Once with Zee, once with XT middy, neither worked for me with a 40t (my boys 2 bikes). One is now goat linked, one rad caged.
I keep hearing some people got it to work, not me. Are you sram?

I used an XT mid cage. Didn't even have to wind the B-screw all the way (was close though) and it worked fine with 11-40.

With 10 speed Shimano you wind the B screw so that the jockey is as close as possible to the largest cog. The last time I used SRAM 10 speed you set it at about 5-6mm clearance. It is interesting though that 11 speed Shimano they have since gone to a 5-6mm clearance spec as well. This coincides with what I already did with my old 10 speed, where I wound it out by the same amount and it worked fine with the 40T.
 
I did this with a mid XT and it worked but needed tweaking. Changed to RadR cage and shifting improved markedly. It is possible with some frames but not brilliant summed up my experience.
 
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