ATTN: Specialized Enduro 650b owners - help needed
- Thread starter Nautonier
- Start date
Nautonier
Eats Squid
Damn, I can't find an emoticon that represents a penis.
Knuckles
Lives under a bridge
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JTmofo
XC Enthusiast
It will make the BB higher, but not by the exact extra increased length of the fork.
Nautonier
Eats Squid
Thanks JT, it's kinda hard to measure exactly, but the A2C does seem to be around 552. Surely it's the same for the 160mm fork the 'stock' bike comes with?
mitchy_
Llama calmer
I know. a2c is axle to crown, ie. Effective fork length.
The bb will (rather crudely calculated) be a bit under half that increase.
Nautonier
Eats Squid
The original 650b uses a 160mm Pike, which is what I now have, albeit converted from a 150mm Pike.
moorey
call me Mia
Yes. Roughly.
Given that BB is closer to rear of the bike, I reckon 10mm of A2C might equate to 4mm of raise in the bb.
slippy
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Plus another 12mm or so from axle to ground by virtue of the bigger wheel. There's your 10mm bottom bracket height increase explained.
Yes, squat is lowering the rear of the bike to compensate for this. To use squat to get your bottom bracket back to original height you would end up with the slackest head angle ever seen on a bike and a rear wheel somewhere near the back of your head. If you thought converting a 26" bike to 650b wasn't going to change your geometry by more than a 1mm I'd say you misunderstood the blurb somewhere, maybe confused bottom bracket drop with bottom bracket height?
Regardless, a 10mm increase in BB height is not massive. Ride and enjoy and don't sweat the small stuff.
Yes, squat is lowering the rear of the bike to compensate for this. To use squat to get your bottom bracket back to original height you would end up with the slackest head angle ever seen on a bike and a rear wheel somewhere near the back of your head. If you thought converting a 26" bike to 650b wasn't going to change your geometry by more than a 1mm I'd say you misunderstood the blurb somewhere, maybe confused bottom bracket drop with bottom bracket height?
Regardless, a 10mm increase in BB height is not massive. Ride and enjoy and don't sweat the small stuff.
Mywifesirrational
I however am very normal. Trust me.
So this would then suggest a design flaw, perhaps a design compromise is a better term in coverting a 26 to 27.5?
The Banshee Rune I used to own raised by 10+mm in the BB when convertered to 27.5, whilst my new Nomad is the same sa the Rune was in 26 - roughly 13.4 before sag, obviously designed purpose built for 27.5 (almost unridable in 26, i tried).
A 10mm rise in BB, at least for me, is really noticeable, especially when you have spent a lot of time at the lower height.
Also an issue when converting a Firebird to 27.5 and also the older Ibis models used the same front end as 27 and 27.5, same problem.
The Banshee Rune I used to own raised by 10+mm in the BB when convertered to 27.5, whilst my new Nomad is the same sa the Rune was in 26 - roughly 13.4 before sag, obviously designed purpose built for 27.5 (almost unridable in 26, i tried).
A 10mm rise in BB, at least for me, is really noticeable, especially when you have spent a lot of time at the lower height.
Also an issue when converting a Firebird to 27.5 and also the older Ibis models used the same front end as 27 and 27.5, same problem.
mitchy_
Llama calmer
Speccy list the enduro evo as having a longer chain stay length. Perhaps there is more than just the linkage involved in getting 180 rear travel.
Also consider the stock tyres compared to whatever you run... A 2.1 and a 2.4 will have different OD's As well as varying tread heights, lifting the bike further...
Also consider the stock tyres compared to whatever you run... A 2.1 and a 2.4 will have different OD's As well as varying tread heights, lifting the bike further...
slippy
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Noticeable? Sure. Worse? Well that depends. Everything's a trade off. Better ground clearance or lower C.O.G.? You can't have it both ways, so just enjoy what you've got or get something else.
Nautonier
Eats Squid
Yes, but what I'm trying to say is that Specialized have compensated for the increase A/C and wheel size by changing the geo of the rear end to compensate. Are you saying that the 'squat' involved in achieving this could in no way be achieved without raking out the front end massively? Specialized would beg to differ; their numbers on the website tell a different story. But I see your point and now I'm more confused than ever. Perhaps the Spesh numbers are complete rubbish and I now have a bike with a really slack HA and higher BB.
I'm not sweating the small stuff, I'm just curious and wondering if the Evo geo is different to the non Evo. Regardless, the bike is great and I'm happy with it, but to me a 10mm difference in BB height is a big deal and it would leave me wondering how it would ride with a 'normal' height BB.
I'm worried that the Evo chainstay length is 1mm longer than the non-Evo (suggesting a different part, which was my original concern), but what I really want to know is whether the swing arm is accordingly longer.
Surely someone on here has a 650b Enduro, or was the Aus import so terrible this year that hardly anyone got the pleasure?
brutasauras
Likes Dirt
A 10mm rise in BB, at least for me, is really noticeable, especially when you have spent a lot of time at the lower height.
Really? I jump from 317 bb height 150mm travel bike , to a 345 bb height 130mm travel bike and the only thing i notice is the more pedal clearance.
Really? I jump from 317 bb height 150mm travel bike , to a 345 bb height 130mm travel bike and the only thing i notice is the more pedal clearance.
moorey
call me Mia
I flipped the chips on my spitfire to the middle ones, aprox 10mm, purely to get better pedal clearance with 26" Tyres. I felt the difference immediately, found less grounded in, but need the clearance, so I'll deal with it. That said, I'm not the sort of rider that these small differences make a difference to.
brutasauras
Likes Dirt
You know in full honesty I am a pretty average rider, I know this because I often ride with exceptional riders that allow me to see the level of my own ability's. The one thing I have noticed is that the best riders don't spend money constantly modding or changing bits on their bikes, they just ride what they have really fast.
I really, really like what you are saying here and I truly think that more people should take note of it.
Anyway, gosh it cant be too hard finding someone with a 650B Enduro to do the bloody measurements and end this discussion. I have an Enduro 29, sorry mate.
JTmofo
XC Enthusiast
Not only is riding bikes a hobby of mine ( I'm in no way riding to be competitive or have the will to break any koms) but building/maintaining/modifying is also a hobby.
I have disposable income to spend on my hobbies, but I also have financial commitments to maintain so riding flat out,falling off and loosing time in work isn't my radar.
Everyone to their own....
I have disposable income to spend on my hobbies, but I also have financial commitments to maintain so riding flat out,falling off and loosing time in work isn't my radar.
Everyone to their own....
I dont think that he or I meant to offend anyone, sorry if that came along the wrong way. Just wanted to say that theres a lot of truth in it and there a lot off people around that should spend there time and money riding and not buying into every new rave. For most mountain biking is a about the riding first and then the bike (as you obviously need to take care of it as you otherwise miss out on the important part). Anyway, as you say everyone to their one.
Now can someone please take the measurements of his 650B Enduro, I'm curious now.
Mywifesirrational
I however am very normal. Trust me.
So basically it's considered bad to be upgrading because it means the rider is obviously compenstaing for lack of skill? Guess I am not fast then becuase I have upgraded my bikes...
The factory saddle that my arse hates, shouldn't be upgraded to something comfortable?
The grips that are too narrow or large?
Bars too narrow (or wide)?
Shitty factory brakes (low end avids), upgrade for more power and reliability is now a no go?
Tyres, better not change them to suit terrian that is ridden.
Pedals, that topic is a religon on here.
stem length, better keep that stock, dont want the bike fitting to well.
Bar rise, yet again, upgrading for correct fit is a no no.
Can't use tubeless unless bike comes with it...
Rotor size, guess I'm stick with 160's, which would be great if I was 50kg.
crank length... good luck for short or long legged friends.
Suspesnion, lets keep non adjustable base models because getting correct suspension set up is over rated and for upgrade pousers.
Nautioner clearly has wasted his money...
Edit: Chopsticks... oh dear lord, what does his upgrade-itis mean? besides having a really nice bike
The factory saddle that my arse hates, shouldn't be upgraded to something comfortable?
The grips that are too narrow or large?
Bars too narrow (or wide)?
Shitty factory brakes (low end avids), upgrade for more power and reliability is now a no go?
Tyres, better not change them to suit terrian that is ridden.
Pedals, that topic is a religon on here.
stem length, better keep that stock, dont want the bike fitting to well.
Bar rise, yet again, upgrading for correct fit is a no no.
Can't use tubeless unless bike comes with it...
Rotor size, guess I'm stick with 160's, which would be great if I was 50kg.
crank length... good luck for short or long legged friends.
Suspesnion, lets keep non adjustable base models because getting correct suspension set up is over rated and for upgrade pousers.
Nautioner clearly has wasted his money...
Edit: Chopsticks... oh dear lord, what does his upgrade-itis mean? besides having a really nice bike
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