Bearing questions

[ianganderton]

I'm just looking at sourcing bearings for my bike and have a load of questions

Firstly for the rear suspension of my 2005 Specialized Enduro I have the following specs from the manual:

2 x 6902 2RS 28mm OD x 15mm ID x 7mm W (BB Pivot Bearing)
4 x 6800 2RS 19mm OD x 10mm ID x 5mm W (Dropout Pivot Bearing)
6 x 6802 2RS Full Complement*24mm OD x 15mm ID x 5mm W
-2 x Shock link @ frame pivot bearing *
-2 x link @ seat stay (outer) pivot bearing
-2 x seatstay @ link (inner) pivot bearing

I've just been into Applied Industrial Technologies (Former SKF Bearing Supplies) in Mascot and been quoted about $20 a bearing for SKF. For 12 bearings that's $240!!!!

For a "Enduro Bearing Set - Spec Enduro 2005-06 150mm" from https://www.diymtb.com.au/displayitems.asp?cid=100 it's quoting $84!!!!!

Hooper bearings across the road quoted me about 10 bucks a bearing but I don't know what brand or specs

Enduro and SKF bearings are both something I recognise as being well respected in the bike world. But I don't have any specifications to compare. 3x a price difference seems a lot

Because it's in a suspension linkage the bearings aren't ever going through a full rotation. What difference does this make to the specs required?

What does the Full Complement specification listed in the Specialized Manual mean?

Both the bearing suppliers dismissed it but I can't help but think that Specialized are pretty good at knowing what they are doing, there will be plenty of engineering expertise kicking around so would only specify something if it meant something. Unless it's a typo of course

I'm also after bearings for my hope hubs. The rear axle is not feeling good so I purchased these while I was in so I can sort them for the weekend.

$46 seems like a hell of a lot

The specs for the hubs are

Rear Hope Pro 2 Evo
Axle
2 x S61903 RS (19.79) (17 X 30 STAINLESS BEARING)
Freewheel
1 x S17287 RS (n/a) (17 X 28 STAINLESS BEARING)
2 x S6803 RS (19.41) (17 X 26 STAINLESS BEARING)

Front Hope Pro 2/Evo
2 x 6804 RS

The bearing suppliers both struggled with S17287

Stainless bearings are specified? The guy at SKF dismissed this. Again I wonder about this as hope have good engineers who wouldn't specify something unless it made sense

Any thoughts gratefully received

 

[shmity]

Get the enduro bearings from DIY, they've proven to be the most reliable ive used over the years, including against SKF equivelents. Full compliment bearings are best for radial loads (ie the kind you get in suspension links) they do away the bearing retainer (the cage the holds the balls in some bearings) and use more balls in the same space. This distributes loads and wear much more evenly. I would never use anything except full compliment bearings in bikes now.

To be honest 84 bucks for 12(or is it 18 bearings?) from diy, for enduro is a relative bargain compared to "$10 dollars a bearing" of unknown quality (thats still 120 or 180 bucks...)

If you really want you can do what a few people do and pull your bike apart every few months and rotate the bearings ie. spin them by hand to give them a few full rotations and repack with grease.

Realisticaly the only thing that should kill the enduro bearings on that frame is poor maintenance or badly torqued bolts. They should last with the frame if you treat them well.


Hope bearings should be available online, email them directly and ask, or look on CRC who sell a lot of hope related products.

 

[eastie]

DIYMTB also do hope hub bearings, they list about 7 items for hope hubs. I've had great service from them and the bearings are great quality.

 

[ianganderton]

Ok. Had the rear of the bike in pieces and checked the bearings.

Some were in a pretty bad state. They are all now moving after being cleaned out and repacked. One or 2 are pretty rough though. Don't suppose it makes a huge difference as the range is pretty minimal.

I will get one of the sets from diymtb

After having the seals off I can now clearly see the difference between normal and full complement!! Only have bad words for the guys behind the counters at the bearing suppliers this morning!!!!

Replaced rear axle bearings in hub with the SKF ones purchased this morning. Only one of the original hope bearings felt rough and it was all pretty clean in there.
Freewheel bearings feel fine for now but there is one failed pawl spring needs replacing so will get that ordered too.

Balcony is now covered in WD40 and I have one blood blister. Not bad going all things considered

 

[Knuckles]

Hijack......Oh no! Bearing race is stuck.

Sorry for the hijack, but appears you're sorted.

Anyways, pulling out the bearings from a Yukon fram I bought to build up for the boy, all very dry, very rough annnnnd very stuck. Managed to get them all out, except on in the seat stay. The fucker shattered and left the outside race in their, it didn't budge a mm. nowhere to get a purchase on the edge of the race, due to the lip on the seat.

So what the hell are my options?

 

[eastie]

go the hack with a dremel or die grinder with a small cylindrical grinder bit. prob stainless, if it is you'll need al-oxide or tungsten carbide.

 

[hakka]

Had a similar one in a motorbike engine, welded a nut onto it and used a slide hammer. Only do it if you're good at welding.

 

[Knuckles]

Had a similar one in a motorbike engine, welded a nut onto it and used a slide hammer. Only do it if you're good at welding.

Hammering is my bag, welding stainless inside aluminum, notsomuch...

go the hack with a dremel or die grinder with a small cylindrical grinder bit. prob stainless, if it is you'll need al-oxide or tungsten carbide.

Was thinking this was my only option, but being cackhanded, was really hoping for a miracle cure.....oh well, warm up a spot for me in the fuckwits.

 

[carpetrunner]

the blind bearing puller is your friend

.... was really hoping for a miracle cure.....oh well, warm up a spot for me in the fuckwits.

You can use a blind bearing puller - it's a collet that expands with a ridge on the end to squeeze onto any gap between the race and the frame.
The ghetto method is an expanding masonry bolt (Dynabolt) you may have to grind a circular ridge around the end.
other than that, dremmel - just take your time - you don't have to grind it all away, just weaken it.
- carpetrunner

 

[Dales Cannon]

The welding trick is good because it shrinks the bearing and help breaks any corrosion between the Ali and sus. That size and you would want to use TIG. No one near? I would do it but the road trip is a bit far. Give it a good soak in penetrant and support the frame well. Other option is measure the race OD with some verniers and find a flanged nut the right size. Grind one side of the race until you can force that in then go whacko.

Good ruck.

 

[eastie]

Leaving it in there and cable tying it back together is more within his skill range. You could go all canondale lefty on it and cut it off, way over engineered for a sprog.

 

[Freediver]

You may be able to cut an L shaped groove into it without going all the way through and then get a dowel and put a pin through it to slot into your groove. Kind of like a BNC connector. The dowel should stop the pin from bending and you will be able to get a punch into it to do that percussive engineering we all love.
Take it nice and slow if you do any grinding, you don't want to create hot spots that may screw with the hardening of the aluminium.

 

[stirk]

Sorry for the hijack, but appears you're sorted.

Anyways, pulling out the bearings from a Yukon fram I bought to build up for the boy, all very dry, very rough annnnnd very stuck. Managed to get them all out, except on in the seat stay. The fucker shattered and left the outside race in their, it didn't budge a mm. nowhere to get a purchase on the edge of the race, due to the lip on the seat.

So what the hell are my options?

Give it to your MIL, she's good at removing things.

 

[Knuckles]

Give it to your MIL, she's good at removing things.

Like my will to live.

 

[gregp]

Sorry for the hijack, but appears you're sorted.

Anyways, pulling out the bearings from a Yukon fram I bought to build up for the boy, all very dry, very rough annnnnd very stuck. Managed to get them all out, except on in the seat stay. The fucker shattered and left the outside race in their, it didn't budge a mm. nowhere to get a purchase on the edge of the race, due to the lip on the seat.

So what the hell are my options?

http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?299311-Outer-race-bearing-removal