Blur TR

cramhobart

Likes Dirt
photo.jpgbike2.jpg


Wheels: 819's on hope pro 2
Brakes: Elixir R
Fork: 140/120 Talas fit rlc tuned by Ken with SKF seals
Stem and seatpost: Thompson
Cranks: XT with blackspire 24/36
Guide: Blackspire twinty
Shifters X0 (9 speed)
Rear mech: x0
Front mech: XT
Bars:Awnser pro taper
If anyone has a gold 9 speed mid cage rear mech they dont want- pm me.
Thanks
 
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ChopSticks

Banned
HOT FRAME !!!!!
....blue guide not so much LOL
have you considered just jumping to x10?

any more clearer pics?
 

cramhobart

Likes Dirt
I like the blue- but I can see why some wouldn't, thought about 2x10 speed but couldn't see any real advantage over 2x9, certainly not enough gain to outlay over $700 when I have a perfectly good drivetrain already, sort of waiting to see what happens with 11 speed.
 
Nice.
Going by the image, to me it seems your guide isn't quite set up correctly- lower jockey wheel is essentially exposed & lining up for a thumping in its current position. Needs to be rotated clockwise a good 20mm.
 

cramhobart

Likes Dirt
Nice.
Going by the image, to me it seems your guide isn't quite set up correctly- lower jockey wheel is essentially exposed & lining up for a thumping in its current position. Needs to be rotated clockwise a good 20mm.
Thanks for the heads up- first time ive run a chain guide- however I cant rotate guide any further without the arm that the bottom slider attaches too fouling the attachment point on the frame for the lower rocker link- if I space the guide out it fouls the granny ring- I dont mind it the way it is as it provides some protection for the lower rocker link which protrudes a couple of inches below the bottom bracket, open to suggestions though- as I said I'm new to guides.
 
Thanks for the heads up- first time ive run a chain guide- however I cant rotate guide any further without the arm that the bottom slider attaches too fouling the attachment point on the frame for the lower rocker link- if I space the guide out it fouls the granny ring- I dont mind it the way it is as it provides some protection for the lower rocker link which protrudes a couple of inches below the bottom bracket, open to suggestions though- as I said I'm new to guides.
Have a sticky beak to see what other global TR riders are using, but I'm almost certain that with the right combo of BB spacers you'll be able to make your existing guide work. 2.5mm spacer between the frame's BB shell & the guide's taco (alloy adapter for running guides on non-iscg) followed by a 1.5mm, then screw the BB back in, insert cranks & check alignment. Obviously the front derailleur's ability to 'throw' between the two chain rings will be a determining factor for you. You might even find that putting the chain rings outboard from their current position will also help fine tune the alignment. Going by your XT cranks I'll assume they were originally a triple ring setup- if running the chain rings outboard looks like it will help the alignment/prevent fouling against any part of your frame, then it will mean that you will almost certainly have to grind off the inner tab mounts of the crank (for the granny ring's original position), so that it doesn't scrub against the guide's backing plate. Over the years I've had to do this to a couple of sets of cranks that were originally either double or triple ring.

Don't be disheartened- there is much trial & error with spacing out guides in order to have them not only fit frames correctly, but work as they were designed to. You're very lucky if you get it right first time. A bit of faffing now to get it right will translate as the guide running its lifetime without you ever needing to look down & wonder if the chain's dropped or whether it's tracking as it should- also helps avoid any unnecessary damage to your drivetrain & the frame.

Good luck & happy rolling.

**EDIT: Just had a quick look for you while nomming on my 4:20 lunch & Santa Cruz actually recommend using an E13 TRS+Dual or MRP 2x guides with their SC TR models, so theoretically yours should work- blurry photos but it looks like an MRP 2x guide that you're running, no?**
 
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cramhobart

Likes Dirt
Thanks for the suggestions- I'm running a blackspire twinty and I think i've got it sorted. The guide plate is double the thickness of the "grooved track" that the bolts go through to attatch to the ISG tabs. There is a double thickness ramp at the top of the arm that the slider runs on(inside), Ive filed a small section of the ramp down to about 2/3rds thickness which give me clearance to rotate the guide. I'll put up a pic later- again thanks for the heads up.
 

charlieking97

Likes Dirt
I like the blue- but I can see why some wouldn't, thought about 2x10 speed but couldn't see any real advantage over 2x9, certainly not enough gain to outlay over $700 when I have a perfectly good drivetrain already, sort of waiting to see what happens with 11 speed.
Nice build. I think he was talking about 1x10, which i have been running on my similar VPP bike. It is definitely an improvement from the 2x9/10. All VPP lower links get in the way of the guide. MRP G-2s and the SRAM guides fit fine, but I modified my E13 LG1+ to suit
 

cramhobart

Likes Dirt
Nice build. I think he was talking about 1x10, which i have been running on my similar VPP bike. It is definitely an improvement from the 2x9/10. All VPP lower links get in the way of the guide. MRP G-2s and the SRAM guides fit fine, but I modified my E13 LG1+ to suit
Thanks, I'd love to go to single ring up front, but don't think id cope with the smaller range on the longer rides I do. I'm watching the 11 speed developments with interest. There's some big hills around hobart.
Thanks for the vpp guide info- the guide thing was doing my head in for a bit.
 

charlieking97

Likes Dirt
Thanks, I'd love to go to single ring up front, but don't think id cope with the smaller range on the longer rides I do. I'm watching the 11 speed developments with interest. There's some big hills around hobart.
Thanks for the vpp guide info- the guide thing was doing my head in for a bit.
Not a problem. Im only on 10sp running 11-36t with a 32t up front. It lets me climb anything and is high enough to race DH trails with, but sometimes spins out when go 45kmh+, but it is not like pedaling will make a huge difference then. 34t front would be perfect. 26er by the way.
 
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