Boost Crankset

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northvanguy

Likes Dirt
Anyone got a better idea than SLX Boost crankset for $129?

My RF Aeffect cranks have somehow despite the 8mm bolt having never ever come close to loose developed a lot of play in the driveside so i'm hesitant to go RF again....

Shimano just works dont they? Going on a 170/160 bike..... 90kg rider fully geared up....ride relatively hard.

Cheers
 
Flow-Rider

Flow-Rider

Burner
No issues here with SLX cranks and I jump a fair bit at around 85kg but you can always go to Zee cranks if you're worried.
 
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C

creaky

XMAS Plumper
Need eeWings ...
or if you're not a dentist, Zee or SLX sound like a solid option.

Have you removed the current cranks to see what the issue is?
 
N

northvanguy

Likes Dirt
creaky said:
Need eeWings ...
or if you're not a dentist, Zee or SLX sound like a solid option.

Have you removed the current cranks to see what the issue is?
Click to expand...
I'm completely dumbfounded to be honest. The 8mm crank bolt that hold it all together has never come loose... in fact it took all of my weight and a lot of f-bombs just to get it undone... the BB is fine.... and the spacer that sits between the driveside crank and the bb was installed correctly. I havent changed the cranks since i bought the bike. In fact, i've only ever taken them off once to clean BB.

The splines look fine.... there's zero play in the non-driveside.... but no matter how hard i tighten the 8mm the driveside crank arm has lateral play. I can only think the 'teeth' in the drive side crank are worn.... but no idea how given how tight it was all done up.
 

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Oddjob

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
The spacer on the drive side is either worn or that piece of shit pressfit bb was out of spec and the spacer wasn't making contact properly.

Go the SLX cranks. The shimano HTII system is superior.

Shutup @Ultra Lord, I just changed the dj and Rune to old school SLX with the steel pedal insert.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 
C

creaky

XMAS Plumper
Is there a preload adjusting ring on the non-drive side that you adjust to remove the lateral play? That's what my RF cranks have.
 
N

northvanguy

Likes Dirt
Oddjob said:
The spacer on the drive side is either worn or that piece of shit pressfit bb was out of spec and the spacer wasn't making contact properly.

Go the SLX cranks. The shimano HTII system is superior.

Shutup @Ultra Lord, I just changed the dj and Rune to old school SLX with the steel pedal insert.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
haha to be honest i havent had a problem with the RF BB even though everyone bloody hates them online. Of course, PF isnt ideal and i hate that i can't just buy a normal $30 XT BB once a year and easily swap it over. I have no idea why people try and maintain a BB when you can buy one for $30.

Try sourcing a new spacer in AUS!!! Everytihng was fine for 2 years of pretty hard riding.... just annoyed as cranks should really outlast everythign on the bike.... nothing should go wrong.... which is what i've had with Shimano in the past (other than me being a muppet and stripping the non-drive side bolts).

My only reason for trying to make the RF cranks work is i have a spare brand new cinch chainring.....
 
Ultra Lord

Ultra Lord

Hurts. Requires Money. And is nerdy.
Oddjob said:
The spacer on the drive side is either worn or that piece of shit pressfit bb was out of spec and the spacer wasn't making contact properly.

Go the SLX cranks. The shimano HTII system is superior.

Shutup @Ultra Lord, I just changed the dj and Rune to old school SLX with the steel pedal insert.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
How good is it not having the cranks come loose on the dj bike though!
 
C

creaky

XMAS Plumper
northvanguy said:
not on the Aeffect version.... they're the cheap everyday man's version.... you must have good ones.
Click to expand...
Hmm, sounds like a spacer issue then. You can put your own 'custom' spacers/shims in there. I seem to have an ever growing collection of crank / BB spacers in my bike junk box. The challenge would be getting the right thickness for acceptable preload on the bearings without play.... or just buy some shimano cranks !
 
N

northvanguy

Likes Dirt
creaky said:
Will have to check on 24mm - I've been 30mm for a few yrs except for one gxp set. What thickness are we talking, like 0.5mm, 1mm or more lateral play than that?
Click to expand...
Id say 1mm increments would work to test.

Potentially the rubber ones that RF supply have worn or been squeezed smaller so I can use those to adjust.
 
C

creaky

XMAS Plumper
Will send it off today.
Will also include in the envelope a sprinkling of white powder of unknown origin, a sneeze from a colleague with a fever and dry cough in addition to a pocket sized photograph of the @moorey bruised ass.
 
N

northvanguy

Likes Dirt
i look forward to all contents of such envelope.... i'll tell my partner it's a present for her.... all of sudden be single, have the spacer, and have more time for riding.
 
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