Brake Help

[Specialized Freerider]

I have just bled both my front and rear Juicy 7's, I replaced the rear pads however the fronts were still very good so I put them back in. When I put the wheels back on the pads were rubbing even though I backed off the pad contact adjustment. I've read through the manual and can't find anything. How do I back the pads off? Thanks

 

[Tyler!]

Perhaps you accidentally pumped the brake lever whilst the rotor was out.
ive done this before and it moves the pistons in to much, and they then dont come all the way back out, making the little bastard rub

 

[Specialized Freerider]

I don't think I did because as soon as I took the bleeding block out I put the wheel back on.

 

[andrew_o]

How badly? It could be as simple as the caliper not being centered. Loosen of caliper bolts have hand on caliper and give the lever a pump. Then tighten bolts up!

 

[Landon]

Pad Clearance

If you've removed the pads and used a bleeding block during the bleed process, the pistons should be set in the right starting position. If you still have very little pad clearance after installing the pads and disc, you might have a problem with sticky pistons.

 

[Roasted Chicken]

I had a similar problem when I bled my 7's a few weeks back, just loosen the caliper bolt so it can move around slightly.
Spin the wheel and then apply the brakes, repeat this a few times, then hold the brake on and tighten up the bolts. This should stop the rubbing.
If that doesn't work you may have to loosen them off again and spin the wheel, then just align the caliper by hand until you can see an even gap either side of the disk.
Note: a good light source will do wonders here, I use a 500W halogen lamp.
Also when the wheel is spinning you will hear the pads rubbing if it is not in the right spot, so use your hearing to help you adjust.

If the pads are too close together, you can gently pry them apart with a large flat head screwdriver. Don't be too rough otherwise you will damage the surface of the pads.

Hope that helps you out.

 

[Specialized Freerider]

Thanks for the help, I will give it a go. Now another quick question, I know how the pad and lever adjustments work!, however Im just wondering how others adjust theirs? I mean in what order, do you first adjust the pads then the lever or the other way around?

 

[Specialized Freerider]

I tried it however there is still rubbing. You can only push the pistons back in so far as well. I don't know!?

 

[Landon]

Try Removing Some Fluid

When you say bleeding block, do you have the one included with the MY09 bleed kit?

If you just used the Avid pad spreader and left the pads in the caliper while bleeding, (not a good idea due to risk of contamination) the system might be over filled. After removing the pads you should be able to push the pistons back into their bores without much trouble. If there's too much fluid in the system, this will be difficult.

The pad contact point adjustment does not change the position of the caliper pistons. That adjustment only changes the lever engagement point.

If you re-attach the syringe at the lever and push the pistons back into their bores, you'll be able to remove any excess fluid.

 

[Specialized Freerider]

When you say bleeding block, do you have the one included with the MY09 bleed kit?

If you just used the Avid pad spreader and left the pads in the caliper while bleeding, (not a good idea due to risk of contamination) the system might be over filled. After removing the pads you should be able to push the pistons back into their bores without much trouble. If there's too much fluid in the system, this will be difficult.

The pad contact point adjustment does not change the position of the caliper pistons. That adjustment only changes the lever engagement point.

If you re-attach the syringe at the lever and push the pistons back into their bores, you'll be able to remove any excess fluid.

I used the avid bleed blocks supplied. I just would have thought that the blocks would have kept the pistons back at the right distance so it would work? And also if the pad adjustment knob does not move the pistons whats the diference between it and the lever adjustment?

 

[pipes10]

The reach adjust moves the lever in or out in relation to the bar, so if you have smaller hands you can move the entire lever closer to the bar. The pad contact adjustment knob determines at which point in the lever throw the pads will contact the rotor. It does not move the pads in any way.

Is the rotor rubbing the pads in one spot in it's rotation or is it rubbing throughout the entire rotation? Is it rubbing on one side only or does it hit both pads?

 

[Specialized Freerider]

Both sides of the pads through out the entire rotation. Also when bleeding which way should the pad dial be adjustment be turned? Thanks

 

[pipes10]

Then I would try what Landon mentioned with regards to your system being over filled. It's not really necessary to remove the pads though. Attach a syringe to the lever, put the pad spreader between the pads and you may see some excess fluid go into the syringe as your pistons get pushed back.

The pad contact adjustment knob should be turned all the way out. I like to dial it all the way out then turn it in 1/2 to 1 turn. Take a look at SRAM's video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzZkEIrCBJ0&feature=channel_page

 

[Specialized Freerider]

I went and got some for brake fluid are re-bled both ends while watching the video. It worked really well and the end result was great! The Avid bleeding manual I found to be not detailed enough as I found a number of points the video brought out that the manual did not. Thanks guys.

 

[Roasted Chicken]

Yeah I watched the video before I bled my brakes, the manual seems to make a lot more sense after you watch the video. I've never found the pad contact adjusters much use, my levers feel too spongey if i dont have the contact wound all the way out.