car stereo systems

5PIDEY

Likes Dirt
hey, i have some questions about car stereo systems, in some packages i was looking at you get a 400w amp, 2 subs with about 600w and 4 splits with about 150w each. by using the amp would i only be able to run the speakers at about half their potential? would it be worth buying another amp so i could use all of the watts the speakers have, or would that make the quaility shithouse?

also, how much would installing everything be, the subs are already in a single box, would i be able to do it myself? is it easy to setup everything, wiring, channels and all that stuff?

cheers
 

Dane

Likes Dirt
5PIDEY said:
hey, i have some questions about car stereo systems, in some packages i was looking at you get a 400w amp, 2 subs with about 600w and 4 splits with about 150w each. by using the amp would i only be able to run the speakers at about half their potential? would it be worth buying another amp so i could use all of the watts the speakers have, or would that make the quaility shithouse?

also, how much would installing everything be, the subs are already in a single box, would i be able to do it myself? is it easy to setup everything, wiring, channels and all that stuff?

cheers
I don't know heaps about car stereo stuff, but I installed a new head unit in my car. I'm pretty sure if you've got a multimeter and know how to use it - you should be right.
 

S_M_I_D_D_Y

Likes Dirt
Not quite enough info there mate. if u dont know how it all goes together, ask some friends, someone should be able to do it.

How many channels is the amp?

The wiring for the amp isnt hard, if you have some idea how it works
 

naz

Criminally Inane
fuck doof. subs are useless unless u have spent more on your car than you origanilly paid for the car, or you have serious small man syndrome, or lack any social interaction.

if your going to run one get a 4channel amp with pre out, run pre out from your first amp to a second, that is if you want good bass, a Mono block type D, bridged, and depending on your amp a crossover, passive or active depending on money. if your runnin high powered amps/speakers get a capacitor, say 1 farad, so when your dumping your fully sick akon tunes the bass wont die.

if what i say is wrong its been years since ive read up about the stuff.

im planning mine too, JVC 7" motorised screen dvd headunit, kicker 6" 2 ways in the front doors, and 2 6x9 3 ways (kicker) in the rear door, with a 4 channel amp.
 

crozza

Likes Dirt
u will not get a shit sound if you have 2 amps, get a 4 channel amp for the speakers and 2 channel for the subs just make sure you are getting the right wattage

and naz why does a sub give u small man sindrome, i would love a sub and an amp because a sub makes a huge difference. pluss its only doof doof if you listen to that kind of music
 

Hex515

Likes Dirt
Its easy to do it yourself. Just buy an amp install package from supercheap or a similar shop, however if you have high quality gear, get a high quality kit (an install package/kit will come with a set of RCA leads, a remote wire, a positive power wire and a ground wire).

Then basicly the RCA leads and remote wire run to the cars head unit, the positive wire runs directly to the battery (make sure you have a fuse installed near the battery) and the negative wire attaches to the body of your car (generally you connect it to a screw in the boot, assuming it is earthed to the body). The remote wire allows the amp to turn on when the stereo is turned on and the RCA wires transfer the audio signals to the amp.

Depending on the brand of the amplifier and the RMS wattage output, it generally isn't worth running two subs from two of the back channels of an amp (the 3rd and 4th channel have the low pass filter and are intended to power a sub) - Its normally better to bridge one subwoofer accross two channels, otherwise they might nor have enough power.

However in your case, if you're really keen I'd get another amp the same as the one you are getting in the package and then I'd run all your normal car speakers from the first two channels on each amplifier (channels 1 and 2). Then bridge the subs accross the two channels (channels 3 and 4, bridge accross them) of each amplifier. So you would have a total of 8 channels and the speakers would use 4 channels and the subs would use 4 channels - With this install you would have to have 2 sets of power leads running from the battery and the cost would obviously be more. And depending on your car, as Naz said you may have to purchase a capacitor (its basically like a second battery that temporarily stores power) or upgrade the alternator in your car (this would be pretty rare, but depends on how far you go). The reason behind this is that subs play the music below a certain frequency and when they come into action (when the bass signals play) they suck alot of power and you can have times when the car can't give enough power to give the amps and you get bad distortion.

The amp and the wire kits will come with instructions and diagrams to install. Playing with car audio is alot of fun and you can always be upgrading your gear, but remember things can go wrong, but they are generally easy to fix.

Oh and when I used the term "bridge" this means run one sub from two amp channels, basicly combines their power and allows them to go louder :D .
 

stainless

Likes Bikes
5PIDEY said:
4 splits with about 150w each. by using the amp would i only be able to run the speakers at about half their potential? would it be worth buying another amp so i could use all of the watts the speakers have, or would that make the quaility shithouse?

cheers
the power rating on speakers is the least important figure that a system should be based on. i always reccomend amplifing everything, but if you wanted to save some cash and you had a decent head unit then run the splits off the HU and run the subs off the amp.

wiring is easy and quite basic for a simple setup like that, power in, power out, signal in, remote turn on. also if you wanted 2 amps in the boot, don't run 2 power leads, just use a distribution block in the boot and tap your power from there.

Capacitors...... 1 farad for every 1000w rms, of you have a decent batery and alternator don't waste your money. most people buy them cause the 15yo at autobarn told them the world will end without one and they have volt meters and flashing lights and shit. i have a 3.5kw RMS system and no caps (3 bateries tho :)) anyone that has heard my car will tell you that it has no problem keeping up.

got to go now but would love to talk more so ask away
 

wombat

Lives in a hole
stainless said:
...i have a 3.5kw RMS system and no caps (3 bateries tho :)) anyone that has heard my car will tell you that it has no problem keeping up.

got to go now but would love to talk more so ask away
I'd ask, but after driving around with a 3500W RMS system, is there any chance that you'd actually be able to hear me?:p
 

MasterOfReality

After forever
You should also match your speakers to amps using the RMS figure.

Using a sub is small mans syndrome?

6x9's and 7x10's are good for bass, but lack everything else. I used to have 7x10's and they cranked, but they had shithouse clarity. Using 6" rear fill and a sub will give a lot better sound.

I have a JVC Exad h/u, Focal 6.5" front splits, Pioneer rear 6", Pioneer 10" sub, Alpine 4ch V12 amp (2 channels bridged for sub, other 2 channels for front splits), and a small Pioneer amp for the rear speakers.

I listen to metal, not doof doof, and it gives excellent results. To my ears anyway.
 

stainless

Likes Bikes
wombat said:
I'd ask, but after driving around with a 3500W RMS system, is there any chance that you'd actually be able to hear me?:p
thats why i use the forums, i can still read :p...... i just crank it at shows and occasionally when some dick in a fully sick commondore with his 2 x 12's want an imprompture db comp, (i have ear muffs in the car for this reason). i don't do laps (anymore:)) and can still hear fine.
 

Hex515

Likes Dirt
stainless said:
wiring is easy and quite basic for a simple setup like that, power in, power out, signal in, remote turn on. also if you wanted 2 amps in the boot, don't run 2 power leads, just use a distribution block in the boot and tap your power from there.
Depends on what wiring kit you get. The cheap ones only support around 40 amps from the battery with a fuse. So if you have two amps you will most likely draw more power than this. However I am guessing you can get good quality cables that support a lot higher current for the distribution system?

If you don't mind me asking, what gear do you have in terms on speakers and amps in your car? ... sounds like a really nice system though. ;)
 
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