Carbon rims

dukemasterpro

Likes Dirt
I’ll start this by saying I’m a believer in carbon rims for the ride quality and the way they make your bike handle and of course look. If you have only had alloy then they have to be ridden and pushed to believe it, go back to back with the same tyres on narrow allow rims and you don’t want to go back. Unfortunately I’ve had a lot of experience with carbon rim failure in the past 7 months with Zelvy rims. Before that I’d had 2 sets of wheels – Hope Hoops on Mavic 521’s and Arch ex that had similar types of trails / riding on them and only a couple of small dings, sratch and occaisonal wobble due to a loose spoke. - Definitely good value for money.

So far since December last year this is what I’ve experienced:

2 cracked rear Zelvy rims ( 40mm wide / 35 mm internal )

*First one last about 2 months, not sure exactly what part of the trail it happened; but it got cracked somewhere from the start of Bunnings AM trail to end of Yo Mumma. Actually think it was Bunnings mid-way down.
*The second replacment 40mm rim lasted just a couple of rides and the rim cracked on the exit of the top section of Holy Trail where it meets the tarmac road in the middle. The rim held air and was rideable rest of the day, stayed true but I would not have wanted to use it much longer. Tyre choice on the 40mm was a HR2 EXO – I was happy with the weight of this tyre, no punctures, no burping, reasonable grip and generally ran at pressures in the low 20’s. Sidewall profile did appear very “tall” compared to a DH2.
That rim was replaced by a 35mm wide ( external ) Zelvy rim which so far has not had any issues, including what can only have been a savage beasting overseas. Amazing grip when paired with a Hans Dampf Super Gravity Trailstar tyre. Actually ran this tyre a lot harder 26psi for the first days overseas then when it got wet in Finale, dropped the pressures right down so maybe 20psi. All time traction and being last 2 days, didn’t care if anything happened but sure enough the wheel was fine, even again in the dry. I had complete faith in carbon again after this experience.

1 front Zelvy ( 40mm wide /35mm internal ) this lasted 7 months, so local and also overseas use then on the 2nd ride back in Australia, bang it went. Had been running tubeless, Magic Mary Trailstar Snakeskin riding at Holy Trail, Wollongong. Just a small section of roots, nothing nasty and BANG. Loudest pop for a wheel I’d heard, completely deflated the tyre and rolled it off the rim both sides. Despite being a front wheel this was easily the worst amount of damage I’ve seen on the Zelvy rims, definitely would not have held air again and when inflated with a tube just looked too risky to ride. This was more of a deep vertical crack by the valve hole.

NB –I’m 77kg with kit on so about 80-82kg fully loaded, bike is a carbon Nomad 3 with Pikes up front ie Full “enduro” setup. All the cracked rims have been on very average bits of track, spent 6 days riding about 20,000 metres of vert around Sospel and Finale Ligure, every kind of rock, root combo on bot high speed and low speed tech tracks. Makes Wollongong and Sydney trails look like a boardwalk yet both rims held up – can’t believe that?? I also know of 2 others with Zelvy’s that cracked one down Thredbo and another at Holy Trail in the gong, on a 140mm trail bike too.

The wheels have stayed true, with only a handful of spokes loose on the 35mm ED wheel, fair enough given the riding. Pretty happy with the building that Summit Cycles had helped with, all spokes were Black DT Comps with spoke tension etc as per Zelvy Similar overseas riding on a pair of factory built Arch Ex pretty much sent every rear wheel spoke loose in 4 days.

Ending this with are carbon rims value for money? Not really – all up cost of rims originally to build with spokes was $1194 excluding King Hubs, then in the region of $676 in getting them fixed ( spokes, labour, returning a wheel to Zelvy, “ Crash Replacement Rims”) . Plus the downtime in going to and from the bike shop to drop-off / collect, waiting for the build, waiting for the rims to come down from Qld – I’d say the downtime is a major inconvenience, it’s all time off the bike and then you have to go back to alloy which is a bit ghetto. Yes, flame me that it’s a 1st world problem but really for the price the ride quality is there just not the longevity – either the rims need to be made substantially better or be sold in 20 packs like inner tubes ( at a realistic price ) and then someone teach me how to build one everytime they go pop.
 

Attachments

99_FGT

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Were you on 30s or 35s before Duke?
Heard of a few failures of the 40s, but none explosively like some other brands
I'm on 30s and couldn't be happier...
 

dukemasterpro

Likes Dirt
Were you on 30s or 35s before Duke?
Heard of a few failures of the 40s, but none explosively like some other brands
I'm on 30s and couldn't be happier...
All the damaged rims have been 40mm outside 35mm inside, even a dh spec 40mm on the rear didn't survive a couple of rides. So far the 35mm on the rear has been good.
 

Ackland

chats d'élevage
This is where I think the WIDE argument falls over...

I am seeing a lot of damage to super wide rims that aren't fitted with appropriately huge tyres.

the sidewall no longer offers protection to the rim
 

teK--

Eats Squid
All the damaged rims have been 40mm outside 35mm inside, even a dh spec 40mm on the rear didn't survive a couple of rides. So far the 35mm on the rear has been good.
Makes me think that 40s are just too wide with the current type of tyres available.

For example even with 35s and running HR2 2.3" wide on the back I really didn't like how much the tyre flattened out. The DHR2 2.3 is better but I still managed to get a decent pinch flat.

Maxxis are releasing wider later in the year.
 

dukemasterpro

Likes Dirt
This is where I think the WIDE argument falls over...

I am seeing a lot of damage to super wide rims that aren't fitted with appropriately huge tyres.

the sidewall no longer offers protection to the rim
What sort of tyres do you consider to be best for 35-40mm rims? Are they on the market yet...I thought I'd nailed it with SG Scwalbe Hans Dampf on the rear and s Magic Mary on the front. Both tyres visually have a larger sidewall profile than the Maxxis. side fx had a 2.5 DHR in Dh casing and albeit on a TWE rim still had an cracked rim.
With that combo it was zelvy 1, trail nil. On the front it was Trail 1, Zelvy nil. Expensive roulette game to play.
 

Ackland

chats d'élevage
What sort of tyres do you consider to be best for 35-40mm rims? Are they on the market yet...I thought I'd nailed it with SG Scwalbe Hans Dampf on the rear and s Magic Mary on the front. Both tyres visually have a larger sidewall profile than the Maxxis. side fx had a 2.5 DHR in Dh casing and albeit on a TWE rim still had an cracked rim.
With that combo it was zelvy 1, trail nil. On the front it was Trail 1, Zelvy nil. Expensive roulette game to play.
See comment above.... I don't think that wide enough tyres are available...
 

Ivan

Eats Squid
What sort of tyres do you consider to be best for 35-40mm rims? Are they on the market yet...I thought I'd nailed it with SG Scwalbe Hans Dampf on the rear and s Magic Mary on the front. Both tyres visually have a larger sidewall profile than the Maxxis. side fx had a 2.5 DHR in Dh casing and albeit on a TWE rim still had an cracked rim.
With that combo it was zelvy 1, trail nil. On the front it was Trail 1, Zelvy nil. Expensive roulette game to play.
Schwable are making the 27.5+ tyres 2.8" wide for 40mm rims. They say the've done some research, so I am guessing that 2.8" is around the sweet spot for 40mm.

tire-deflection.jpg

The tyre casing looks like it protect the rim in the picture below
Scott-plus-genius-700-scale-tuned-2015-2016-17-600x425.jpg
 

SummitFever

Eats Squid
Holy marketing BS batman. Where has the sidewall gone?



Lean the tyre over and on the wide rim the sidewall magically disappears?
 

Warp

Likes Dirt
Schwable are making the 27.5+ tyres 2.8" wide for 40mm rims. They say the've done some research, so I am guessing that 2.8" is around the sweet spot for 40mm.
Something has always smelled fishy to me about this trend of fat and plus tyres/wheels.

I can see some value on a wide rim (rims were wider back in the day? Like late 80's/early 90's?), but how wide is wide?

For a vehicle dependent on human power, I think there should be a point of balance between weight/rolling resistance/etc.

I would like to have money to burn to try one rather long term, but in the meantime I will sit out watching from the fence. I already bought into this 27.5 bs... so it will take me a few years to move on from it.


As for carbon rims, prices are still too high compared to aluminium once durability concerns are considered. To me, rims are pretty much consumable items. You will bin them sooner rather than later. You can buy an expensive hub and ride it into several wheelsets, same for your fork, brakes (discs/pads not considered), etc. But, personally, I don't like to go crazy on rims, derailleurs, chains and cogs... those will get binned rather quick. Replacing them gets expensive really quick.

That said, if money was no object, I would get a set of Enve's :)
 

dukemasterpro

Likes Dirt
Really like the look , the design would help to reduce side wall impact . Shame they only do Enduro spec .
Interesting but not heard of these guys before?? $2999 for a set though....still enve pricing. If they are listening I'm volunteering my services as a test rider, promise to hand then back in one piece!

Would be nice if they were in Sydney then at least warranty inspection would be easier. That's what put me off Nox, Ibis and Derby rims which with the USD aren't cheap to begin with.
There seems to also be a wide variance in how companies handle warranty and what they deem is crash replacement eg some LB customers just pay shipping $35-40, others just get that amount off retail on a rim.
Factor in replacing spokes for a new size specific to each brand and it's easy but not economical to just try a different brand.
 

pharmaboy

Eats Squid
Holy marketing BS batman. Where has the sidewall gone?



Lean the tyre over and on the wide rim the sidewall magically disappears?
Yep, super wide rims are this years Kool Aide. When the ex maxis tyre designer on mtbr recommends 25mm as a wide rim width, you have to question the wisdom of >30mm.

Looking at an old wheel set of Rhyno lite double widths that are over 30mm (circa 14 years ago?)- it's hardly a new invention. Bit like skinny jeans, trends get recycled.
 

MrPlow

TMBC
I’ll start this by saying I’m a believer in carbon rims for the ride quality and the way they make your bike handle and of course look. If you have only had alloy then they have to be ridden and pushed to believe it, go back to back with the same tyres on narrow allow rims and you don’t want to go back. Unfortunately I’ve had a lot of experience with carbon rim failure in the past 7 months with Zelvy rims. Before that I’d had 2 sets of wheels – Hope Hoops on Mavic 521’s and Arch ex that had similar types of trails / riding on them and only a couple of small dings, sratch and occaisonal wobble due to a loose spoke. - Definitely good value for money.

So far since December last year this is what I’ve experienced:

2 cracked rear Zelvy rims ( 40mm wide / 35 mm internal )

*First one last about 2 months, not sure exactly what part of the trail it happened; but it got cracked somewhere from the start of Bunnings AM trail to end of Yo Mumma. Actually think it was Bunnings mid-way down.
*The second replacment 40mm rim lasted just a couple of rides and the rim cracked on the exit of the top section of Holy Trail where it meets the tarmac road in the middle. The rim held air and was rideable rest of the day, stayed true but I would not have wanted to use it much longer. Tyre choice on the 40mm was a HR2 EXO – I was happy with the weight of this tyre, no punctures, no burping, reasonable grip and generally ran at pressures in the low 20’s. Sidewall profile did appear very “tall” compared to a DH2.
That rim was replaced by a 35mm wide ( external ) Zelvy rim which so far has not had any issues, including what can only have been a savage beasting overseas. Amazing grip when paired with a Hans Dampf Super Gravity Trailstar tyre. Actually ran this tyre a lot harder 26psi for the first days overseas then when it got wet in Finale, dropped the pressures right down so maybe 20psi. All time traction and being last 2 days, didn’t care if anything happened but sure enough the wheel was fine, even again in the dry. I had complete faith in carbon again after this experience.

1 front Zelvy ( 40mm wide /35mm internal ) this lasted 7 months, so local and also overseas use then on the 2nd ride back in Australia, bang it went. Had been running tubeless, Magic Mary Trailstar Snakeskin riding at Holy Trail, Wollongong. Just a small section of roots, nothing nasty and BANG. Loudest pop for a wheel I’d heard, completely deflated the tyre and rolled it off the rim both sides. Despite being a front wheel this was easily the worst amount of damage I’ve seen on the Zelvy rims, definitely would not have held air again and when inflated with a tube just looked too risky to ride. This was more of a deep vertical crack by the valve hole.

NB –I’m 77kg with kit on so about 80-82kg fully loaded, bike is a carbon Nomad 3 with Pikes up front ie Full “enduro” setup. All the cracked rims have been on very average bits of track, spent 6 days riding about 20,000 metres of vert around Sospel and Finale Ligure, every kind of rock, root combo on bot high speed and low speed tech tracks. Makes Wollongong and Sydney trails look like a boardwalk yet both rims held up – can’t believe that?? I also know of 2 others with Zelvy’s that cracked one down Thredbo and another at Holy Trail in the gong, on a 140mm trail bike too.

The wheels have stayed true, with only a handful of spokes loose on the 35mm ED wheel, fair enough given the riding. Pretty happy with the building that Summit Cycles had helped with, all spokes were Black DT Comps with spoke tension etc as per Zelvy Similar overseas riding on a pair of factory built Arch Ex pretty much sent every rear wheel spoke loose in 4 days.

Ending this with are carbon rims value for money? Not really – all up cost of rims originally to build with spokes was $1194 excluding King Hubs, then in the region of $676 in getting them fixed ( spokes, labour, returning a wheel to Zelvy, “ Crash Replacement Rims”) . Plus the downtime in going to and from the bike shop to drop-off / collect, waiting for the build, waiting for the rims to come down from Qld – I’d say the downtime is a major inconvenience, it’s all time off the bike and then you have to go back to alloy which is a bit ghetto. Yes, flame me that it’s a 1st world problem but really for the price the ride quality is there just not the longevity – either the rims need to be made substantially better or be sold in 20 packs like inner tubes ( at a realistic price ) and then someone teach me how to build one everytime they go pop.
I normally refrain from chiming in on these forums but After you yourself admitted you were "tinning rim" yet we still looked after you extremely well and suggested then like now. To increase your tyre pressures etc. We have plenty of WC and EWS podium riders on our rims for entire seasons with zero issues. Those who are part of the Zelvy family know we are straight shooters. We look after our customers. sh!t does happen. And stuff breaks, for the record you are the only person EVER to break a front rim. :)
The wide rim debate is another issue that deserves itsits own thread. But look even at what the pros run.. perhaps in the off season where they arent under sponsors obligations so much. Wide debate is justified.
 
Last edited:

MrPlow

TMBC
Supposedly rovals are out of china also, may not be the same factory as light bicycle but it is one that produces for other brands known to be from china.

Carbons go boom also, Kovarik has had zelvys grenade on him before, that is Kovarik though I guess.
Kovarik broke some on the dh bike. But he was also only ever running enduro rims. He never ran dh spec. Prepared to take the weight advantage as rhe enduro was strong enough 90% of the time.
 

BizL

Likes Dirt
I'm keen as hell to get some zelvies for my spitty. I'm 100kg before my I'm in my riding gear. I'm sure they'll survive my fat ass n spastic riding abilities.
 

MrPlow

TMBC
I'm keen as hell to get some zelvies for my spitty. I'm 100kg before my I'm in my riding gear. I'm sure they'll survive my fat ass n spastic riding abilities.
I am 100kg too. Weight restrictions are not on our rims for good reason. They are strong. Not the lightest. But reliability is more important. Give us a email BizL . We will sort you out a deal ;)
 

BizL

Likes Dirt
I will when it's time mr plow. Gotta get my wedding n honeymoon over with first dude.
 

MrPlow

TMBC
Failure rate on carbon rims seems to be hight from cheap to the expensive rim . I really like to know from people with carbon rim experience if they run/ran tubeless or tubes and what the fail rate was if any . Basically I cracked a side wall on a DH spec Carbon rim after only a few rides running tubeless and a DH tire . I was pretty blow away as Im really easy going on rims in general had a good tire pressure and was riding on a tame track . As the wheel stands now I am running the rim with a tube , it seems to be fine . The spoke tension is good and the wheel is true . The damage isn`t getting any bigger and its just basically a 5 cm section of side wall thats damaged . I m just wondering if running a tube is better and offers better protection for carbon rims as the side wall is prone to rock strike .
with any rim, carbon or otherwise, factors include width,,tyre, tube or other material an air pressure. Anything you can do to protect the rim is going to help. from procore style setup, to a tube or even some foam tape like what is used in concrete gaps . from your local hardware store.
 
Top