Chains...

[-|Sean|-]

So I just got back from an unexpected 1hour walk home after snapping my chain (Not exactly snapping, but I'll get to that later).

After the initial shock of looking down to see my chain disintegrating (exaggeration ) before my eyes, I inspected the chain and found it was my Powerlink that had worked loose and eventually fallen out. (Turns out I should have been more careful when inspecting my chain 250m back after I noticed a weird sound coming from the drivetrain )

So after rummaging on the forest floor for a good 10-15minutes, I decided to leg it home as it was starting to get dark.

My question is, what determines the number of links suitable for a bike's chain? I was just thinking about it, and if for some reason more than one link snapped/warped/whatever, and you used a single spare powerlink (spare powerlink was what I didn't have this afternoon ) would it do any damage to your drivetrain?

 

[Wellsey]

It wont damage anything, it will reduce the numbers of gears you can get tho. It will get you home.

I carry a small section of spare chain, only a few links, and also 2 or 3 powerlinks.

 

[bazza]

if i get really extreme a chain breaker and a shimano joining pin. most of the time your going to have to break the chain so a joining pin will work just as well (comments welcome). you may just be reduced to not using your big ring on the front (who does for normal mtb single track riding!) or limited on the top of your cassette range. it depends on how much slack there was previously.

 

[BM Epic]

To check your chain length,put it in big ring(front) and the biggest ring(back),,then put it in small ring(front)and small ring(back).
In small/small if the chain is rubbing back on the rear derailleur,you have too much length,it should clear itself by about 1cm,but also make sure you can get big/big.
This is an effective way of checking chain length,so many people we come upon have wayyy too much chain length!

 

[AngoXC]

Big Cog Front/Big Cog Back + 2 links. Should be your chain length.

In small/small if the chain is rubbing back on the rear derailleur,you have too much length,it should clear itself by about 1cm,but also make sure you can get big/big.

Yeah Big Big is priority. But in Small Small (which you should avoid anyways because your chain line will all bent...but just for test purposes...), the derailleur cage/body takes up slack. If your chain/derailleur pulley is rubbing on your cassette, you also have the 'B' Screw which adjusts the derailleur body angle away from the cassette.

 

[BM Epic]

Big Cog Front/Big Cog Back + 2 links. Should be your chain length.



Yeah Big Big is priority. But in Small Small (which you should avoid anyways because your chain line will all bent...but just for test purposes...), the derailleur cage/body takes up slack. If your chain/derailleur pulley is rubbing on your cassette, you also have the 'B' Screw which adjusts the derailleur body angle away from the cassette.

God i'm glad you can put it into words like you do,i re-looked at my post and cringed!

 

[Dan]

I put it on the big ring(s) and make it as short as I can without being too short. I leave a bit of slack but not too much.

 

[bazza]

If your chain/derailleur pulley is rubbing on your cassette, you also have the 'B' Screw which adjusts the derailleur body angle away from the cassette.

Are there limits to the b-screw or can it be wound in as much as you want? Atm mine is almost fully wound in and theres still some pully rub action happening with gear changes and sometimes during my commute. Should I be concerned?