converting hope hub to 12 x 142

outtacontrol

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Have a Hope pro 2 evo on a rear that I am looking to convert to 12 x 142. I have ordered the conversion kit and am awaiting delivery, but was trying to work out what is involved.

The kit shows an axle as well as spacers, but have read that it only involves swapping the end spacers like the front. Can't find much info involving the conversion.
Anyone had any experience with this already??
 

Gripo

Eats Squid
Recently converted the P2 (non Evo)...

Simply removed the end caps (which were QR)

Knocked out the QR axle.

Installed the new 12x142 axle using the original bearings/seals

Installed the new 12x142 end caps.

I did the first one with a rubber mallet and a piece of hard wood....2nd time around I ordered Hope's tools....

Search Utube theres a vid on there by a bike mag MBR on the conversion.....
 

dusty_nz

Likes Dirt
About to do mine in the next day or so.

A press is always better in the long run but hammer and drift is prob the immediate answer.
 
The evo version uses the same axle throughout the different 135mm versions, just a simple end cap swap- pair of pliers and some grease, literally a 30 second job, maybe 5 mins if you have the cassette still on there- just need to unscrew the cassette cap to remove and replace the axle end cap. The non evo version requires the axle change as well.
 

steve24

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I am wondering why people would buy a frame that can use 142x 12 but not take advantage of it by using a 142x 12 wheel (as opposed to a 135 with spacers).

My understanding of the reason to go 142 is so the spokes can be spaced wider to produce a stiffer wheel.....

Perhaps i am missing something??
 

dusty_nz

Likes Dirt
The rear thru axle allows the rear axle to be used as a structural member making the back end stiffer.

Also, The upgrade allows me to save money but not having to upgrade the wheels at the same time.
 

cramhobart

Likes Dirt
I am wondering why people would buy a frame that can use 142x 12 but not take advantage of it by using a 142x 12 wheel (as opposed to a 135 with spacers).

My understanding of the reason to go 142 is so the spokes can be spaced wider to produce a stiffer wheel.....

Perhaps i am missing something??
135 x 10 and 142 x 12 spacing is the same- ditto stiffness- the reason for 142 x 12 is to make changing back wheel easier a 142 x 12 wheel literally is a 135mm wheel with spacers.
 

rone

Eats Squid
135 x 10 and 142 x 12 spacing is the same- ditto stiffness- the reason for 142 x 12 is to make changing back wheel easier a 142 x 12 wheel literally is a 135mm wheel with spacers.
Codswallop. Check your sources - 142x12 in markedly stiffer than QR. Still as fiddly to get the wheel in and out, though:

http://www.syntace.com/index.cfm?pid=1&pk=1314

"The difference compared to conventional dropouts and quick releases:

higher rigidity
less weight
simpler, or at least comparably simple fitting and removal of rear wheel
user friendlier design and less prone to misalignment
even after multiple fitting and removing of rear wheel the same brake rotor positioning is maintained"
 

sclyde2

Likes Dirt
135 x 10 and 142 x 12 spacing is the same- ditto stiffness- the reason for 142 x 12 is to make changing back wheel easier a 142 x 12 wheel literally is a 135mm wheel with spacers.
I was previously under the impression that going to a 10mm axle (RWS or otherwise) would get most of the benefits of increased stiffness that the 142x12 setup does. however there are reports, including some european "scientific" testing, that there is a big boost in stiffness going from 135x10 to 142x12, especially with the syntace x-12. it probably has more to do with the way it attaches to the frame, than the axle diameter.

as for spacing, steve24 is probably referring to the fact that there are some hubs that are specifically made to be 142mm wide. they push out the cassette and disc as far as possible (another 3mm, i suppose) and widen the hub flanges to stiffen the wheel. i remember seeing these mentioned back around the introduction of the 142x12 'standard' (probably on some house-branded hubs, maybe roval or bontager), but don't see them mentioned anymore. doesn't mean they aren't commonplace though - and you'd expect them to go that way once everything (ie. frames) changes over to 142. in the meantime, while people commonly have at least one bike that's 135, it makes sense to have 135-to-142 convertible hubs.

once the market cottons on to this increased-strength-from-wider-spacing-thing, the after market hub manufacturers will start making the 142x12-specific hubs more widespread. eg. i don't think king or dt swiss make them yet.

however, there is the issue of chainline. if the cassette is pushed out 3mm, wouldn't you need a 52-53mm chainline to be optimum? It is stuff like this that is probably holding things up.
 

cramhobart

Likes Dirt
Codswallop. Check your sources - 142x12 in markedly stiffer than QR. Still as fiddly to get the wheel in and out, though:

http://www.syntace.com/index.cfm?pid=1&pk=1314

"The difference compared to conventional dropouts and quick releases:

higher rigidity
less weight
simpler, or at least comparably simple fitting and removal of rear wheel
user friendlier design and less prone to misalignment
even after multiple fitting and removing of rear wheel the same brake rotor positioning is maintained"
compared to conventional through-axle dropouts / through-axles:
less weight
clearly user friendlier, quicker fitting and removal of rear wheel
for the first time a toe and camber adjustment of the rear wheel is possible. For this, the thread insert in the right dropout is replaced by an excentrical thread insert which can then be adjusted to the desired position
Maximum lateral stability and stiffness thanks to the cone which achieves a play-free connection in axial as well as radial direction

Sorry I should have specified that I was talking 135x10 through axle not quick release.
While I don't doubt your sources :) an independent opinion (as opposed to manufacturers marketing) is always worth a look:

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/12x142-explained.html

The goal of the 12 x 142 is not to make a stiffer rear end, although it will be inherently stiffer than the equally convenient 135 quick release system that we're all used to, but to combine the best of both a quick release and a thru-axle design. Yes, we can all manage to install a thru-axle rear wheel on our current bikes without much hassle, but after playing with the new 12 x 142 layout I can honestly admit that it was even more effortless to use. The system's auto wheel centering feature meant that I didn't have to flip the bike over or struggle to line up the hub opening with the axle before pushing it through - just drop the wheel in and slid the axle home. I'm not saying that I'm all for it, but I think it's important to remember that a bike is the sum of it's parts and that if bikes never evolved, even if only in small steps that we're seeing now, we'd still all be using threaded loose ball headsets and cup and cone bottom brackets on our bikes. When it comes down to it, no one needs the new 12 x 142 axle size, but there are benefits to it that are worth looking at.
 
Last edited:

dusty_nz

Likes Dirt
I don't think it is any wider as the Yeti's have have the CHIP's conversion system.

Allows you to change the dropouts to suite either QR or Throu.

Axle may be wider but hub possibly the same size.
 

outtacontrol

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I'm a little scared to ask, for fear of incurring the wrath of the tech heads after the previous posts, but......

I have a pro 2 evo rear hub that currently runs a 135 qr and am waiting for the Hope X12 conversion to make it adaptable for my Slayer which uses the 142 x 12 sized rear hub. Will I need to swap axles or is it just the end caps??
 

rone

Eats Squid
compared to conventional through-axle dropouts / through-axles:
less weight
clearly user friendlier, quicker fitting and removal of rear wheel
for the first time a toe and camber adjustment of the rear wheel is possible. For this, the thread insert in the right dropout is replaced by an excentrical thread insert which can then be adjusted to the desired position
Maximum lateral stability and stiffness thanks to the cone which achieves a play-free connection in axial as well as radial direction

Sorry I should have specified that I was talking 135x10 through axle not quick release.
While I don't doubt your sources :) an independent opinion (as opposed to manufacturers marketing) is always worth a look:

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/12x142-explained.html

The goal of the 12 x 142 is not to make a stiffer rear end, although it will be inherently stiffer than the equally convenient 135 quick release system that we're all used to, but to combine the best of both a quick release and a thru-axle design. Yes, we can all manage to install a thru-axle rear wheel on our current bikes without much hassle, but after playing with the new 12 x 142 layout I can honestly admit that it was even more effortless to use. The system's auto wheel centering feature meant that I didn't have to flip the bike over or struggle to line up the hub opening with the axle before pushing it through - just drop the wheel in and slid the axle home. I'm not saying that I'm all for it, but I think it's important to remember that a bike is the sum of it's parts and that if bikes never evolved, even if only in small steps that we're seeing now, we'd still all be using threaded loose ball headsets and cup and cone bottom brackets on our bikes. When it comes down to it, no one needs the new 12 x 142 axle size, but there are benefits to it that are worth looking at.
Under the assumption that you referred to QR skewer. I retract the codswallop unreservedly.
 
Evo- just the end caps. Pair of pliers should pop them off, then push the replacements onto the end of the axle. Just keep an eye on which side is black, which is silver when you swap them.
 

outtacontrol

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Evo- just the end caps. Pair of pliers should pop them off, then push the replacements onto the end of the axle. Just keep an eye on which side is black, which is silver when you swap them.
I knew it......

I have already knocked the axle out to replace the bearings. What is the orientation of the black and silver cups??
 

dusty_nz

Likes Dirt
What the chance that someone here in Perth has one of these kits that they arn't rushing to use.

Ordered mine from CRC and whilst on the packing list its not in the box. Need it for long weekend for my new AM and Margaret River.

I expect they will do regular shipping and the replacement part won't get here in time.
 
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