Costs to swap out frames

A

animalman86

Likes Bikes
Hi all,

After cracking my Canyon, i was shipped a new frame within 2 weeks. As i'm into the guarantee period, I'm up for the cost of swapping over all components.

I can do some general maintenance eg fork lowers, brake bleeds, gear indexing etc but lack the tools for a full swap over.

Is it that hard? I have looked at videos but the parts I am most unsure about:

  1. Headset removal and install
  2. Getting inner gear cable through the frame
  3. Removal of cranks and BB

Tools:
Headset remover
Torque wrench
Inner and outer gear cable
Grease

As I have a Pole incoming, I would like to get a bit more comfortable with this stuff.

Woukd like to hear any opinions!

Thanks






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hifiandmtb

hifiandmtb

Sphincter beanie
Where are you? Maybe someone on here could spend a couple of hours guiding you through the swapover?

It's not hard but could be a bit tricky if you've not done this before.

A bike shop would charge ~$100 for the work.
 
pink poodle

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
Do you really need a torque wrench?

Do you have a hammer? That is really the most important tool for a job like this.

It can be a bit time consuming, it will be messy, there are risks, but it is a great process and feels real good when you win.
 
A

animalman86

Likes Bikes
pink poodle said:
Do you really need a torque wrench?

Do you have a hammer? That is really the most important tool for a job like this.

It can be a bit time consuming, it will be messy, there are risks, but it is a great process and feels real good when you win.
Click to expand...
I thought I would need it for swapping the shock over

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pink poodle

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
We are all different, and I'm sure there are people here who live by the torque wrench, I just go by feel...I mean my hand is highly attuned. If it is a carbon rramr and you're nervous then it won't hurt to torque it. Otherwise just be cautious.




Especially with the hammer.


You could always strip as much as you can from the bike then just get the tricky stuff sorted by your local workshop. But it is much nicer sorting the bike yourself.
 
Nambra

Nambra

Definitely should have gone to specsavers
Got model details for the bike and what sort of cranks are you running?
  • If it's an IS headset it will be tool free. Bearings just drop into cups machined into the frame. Otherwise you'll need a cup remover
  • Unless it's a threaded bottom bracket, I'd just get a new one - pressfit BB housings tend to get damaged or disintegrate when removing
  • Threaded bottom brackets will need a special tool to unscrew the cups
  • Shimano and Sram cranks probably just need hex keys to remove, Race Face might need more exotic tools?
You can home brew some tools pretty easy:
354932

Top: Pressfit BB remover - made from 19mm diameter curtain rail from Bunnings - about $6 for a metre length from memory - you could probably use PVC pressure pipe for similar results
Bottom: Pressfit BB installer - again, Bunnings odds and sods that cost bugger all - you can do headsets in similar fashion - longer bolt or threaded rod - getting the cups to go in straight at the start is where you win or lose

poodle's suggestion is sound too - strip the easy stuff and go find a bike shop that can help out with the things that need special & expensive tools. I'd still recommend a torque wrench if you're going to take on home mechanic duties, particularly if you don't have the experience to go by feel. A stripped thread or head ripped off a bolt is probably going to cost you more than a semi-decent torque wrench will.

Good luck!
 
nzhumpy

nzhumpy

Googlemeister who likes bikes and scandal
Haha, until they don't...the engines not the problem with them...


I reckon I can see the Beamers brake lines and wiring loom in that skip.
 
rowdyflat

rowdyflat

chez le médecin
Easy job, Stilson if threaded BB, lump of wood to remove head set and fork , a few Allen keys for handlebar stuff and cranks ......... done = too easy.
Just watch what comes out as you pull it apart and put them in order on a light coloured cloth.
I just go by feel never used a torque wrench obviously carbon and small bolts go slowly gently til they are just firm not tight can redo later.
Actually never chased a gear cable thru the frame but should be OK.
 
fatboyonabike

fatboyonabike

Captain oblivious
I have never used a headset press or removal tool, have only ever used various sizes bits of wood to remove headsets and use the bench vise to re-seat the crown race back onto the fork steerer
you should be able to pick up a cheap BB removal spanner from any LBS or online, i was only joking about using the stilsons!
for threading the internal cables, get some 2.5mm electrical wire from bunning (2 metres is more than enough), the stuff used for power points, remove 1 of the 3 cores from the outer sheath only and bend the tip over to form a smooth loop so as it doesn't snag on any edges, thread through to the desired destination and tape cable outer firmly to the other end and pull through..the advantage of electrical wire is that it can be formed and bent to aid in getting around tighter bends, as cable outer doesn't like tight corners..
a decent torque wrench will set you back about $80, I use a Teng Tools 1/4 drive, comes with a calibration certificate too, so its not just cheap chinese shit.
good luck, have fun
 
fatboyonabike

fatboyonabike

Captain oblivious
easy
  1. open vise jaws just as wide as the largest steerer tube diameter
  2. lube the face where the crown race will seat
  3. place loose crown race onto steerer, invert forks and locate steerer in between vise jaws.
  4. using the entire length of the steerer, quickly and forcefully slam the forks in the downward motion towards the vise to seat crownrace
  5. repeat process and work your way around the diameter of the steerer until race is evenly seated on all sides onto fork.
  6. check for damage to the bearing face on the crownrace
  7. if damage has been caused, try to repair with file
  8. if damage has been caused but cannot be repaired, drive to LBS , purchase new crown race and repeat steps 1 - 6 again
fucking amateurs
 
Last edited:
rowdyflat

rowdyflat

chez le médecin
I have polypipe , pvc and electrical conduit in every size so its easy to make a pusher, bearing press or whatever.
Also sockets work .
I even made one to centre + push my tractor clutch plate .
I seriously gently used a small stilson on the bottom bracket but have since bought a splined spanner that fits Shimano although there are at least 2 external diameters in other brands.
 
nzhumpy

nzhumpy

Googlemeister who likes bikes and scandal
fatboyonabike said:
easy
  1. open vise jaws just as wide as the largest steerer tube diameter
  2. lube the face where the crown race will seat
  3. place loose crown race onto steerer, invert forks and locate steerer in between vise jaws.
  4. using the entire length of the steerer, quickly and forcefully slam the forks in the downward motion towards the vise to seat crownrace
  5. repeat process and work your way around the diameter of the steerer until race is evenly seated on all sides onto fork.
  6. check for damage to the bearing face on the crownrace
  7. if damage has been caused, try to repair with file
  8. if damage has been caused but cannot be repaired, drive to LBS and repeat steps 1 - 6 again
fucking amateurs
Click to expand...
I love the fact your calling out amateurs when you have completely cocked up step #1.

 

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