Cranks-help please!!!

mtbdh_girl

Likes Dirt
I currently have profile cranks on my Cove. I HATE them!!!

Can anyone sugget anything halfway decent (and nothing like these) that wont need other parts on the bike changed (ie. chainguide etc)???

They are to suit a Cove Stiffee SL (and yes I know, forks are next on the list... *_* so feel free to recommend a long travel single as well!!!).

Any help would be greatly appreciated as when it comes to parts I know next to nothing, especially having been out of touch with the sport for a couple of years.

Thanks,
Cindie
 

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cam-o

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Can you tell us what you hate about them?
Will make it easier to recommend things that you won't also hate.
Are we talking looks, flexy, creaky, bent, too long, too short?
 

S.

ex offender
As Cam-o said, what exactly do you hate about them? As for long travel singlecrowns, it's hard to look past Pikes. They're lightish, cheapish, seem fairly strong, smooth, progressive, adjustable, blah blah blah. No real downsides IMO.

If you want some cranks that won't require you to buy a new chainguide (or at least chainring/outer plate), you'll need some in 5-bolt for a start. This pretty much limits you to older XTR stuff, or old Raceface stuff (Northshores - I have these and would recommend them to anyone). Either way you're going to need a new bottom bracket though, there's just no getting around that.
 

Derek Yates

Soul Rider
Cranks

Hey,

Just so you know those don't look like 'Profile' cranks at all. They look like a Taiwan crank that is similar to a Profile.

Since your crank and chainrings/bashguard suit a 5/110 bolt pattern, have a look around for a Raceface North Shore crank second hand. They are hell strong and lightish. If you are not hucking huge or doing a million K's, a good ISIS B/B (go with a 4 bearing unit if possible) should be fine to go with it. There are 2 sizes so make sure you get the 5/110 (bigger crank tabs).

If you want to replace the lot a new skool external bearing job (Saint/Truvative/Raceface) would be better long term, but you need a new bashring and chainring for your cranks/guide (not super expensive). That would let you get a smaller (and more popular these days) gearing setup up front (lighter and better for modern DH courses). The majority of people seem to be running a 36t-40t ring these days.

Cheers,

Derek
 

mtbdh_girl

Likes Dirt
As I said, I was hoping to avoid replacing the bb. Anyone got any bmx crank ideas?

It might just be a girl thing, but what it is the look that I dislike, kind of prefersomething a bit beefier and less shiny...
 

RevellBikes

Likes Bikes and Dirt
yeah your right, you are a girl:p ahahaha nah i am joking with ya, they are nice, light and strong as a oxe on steroids but if you dont like them i guess you could always give them to me:)

i surgest you to look at some odessey's, some FSA's, tuffneck over bites i am thinking of getting or check out DMR cranks or WeThePeople ROYAL CRANKS
 

melbourne rider

The Select Phew
As I said, I was hoping to avoid replacing the bb. Anyone got any bmx crank ideas?

It might just be a girl thing, but what it is the look that I dislike, kind of prefersomething a bit beefier and less shiny...
one of the problems you will have is that your bb is 19mm, so if you dont want to replace the bb then you have to buy new cranks with a 19mm spindle.

i would suggest either "odyssey 41 thermal's" or "strictly bitch cranks" as both come in 19mm splined spindle.

http://www.strictlybmx.com/categories.asp?cID=68

hope it helped
 
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