So I bought a cheap fork for my spare bike and need to cut it down. I'm gonna head to Bunnings and buy a hacksaw. Looks like there's a huge selection of blades (any recommendations) etc. I've also seen people recommend pipe cutters. Any have any helpful tips to make this as easy as possible?
Cut Steerer Tube Tips
- Thread starter JediPanda
- Start date
urallwrong
Likes Dirt
A large pipe cutter makes a pretty clean and straight cut. In dyer circumstances, I've used an old stem as a saw guide to keep things somewhat aligned. Using a small screwdriver inserted into the star nut, tap it down to the new location prior to cutting.
Tip 1: Don't be a hubbard like me when I cut my last steerer down.....remove or push lower the star nut.....They're a bitch to cut through and you'll need a new one if you do!
Tip 2: Use a pipe cutter. You want the end of it pretty square and is a lot easier than a hacksaw.
Tip 3: If you do use a hacksaw, use some sort of guide so you get | instead of /
As for blade, not sure it really matters, if it's an aluminium steerer anything will get through it.
Tip 2: Use a pipe cutter. You want the end of it pretty square and is a lot easier than a hacksaw.
Tip 3: If you do use a hacksaw, use some sort of guide so you get | instead of /
As for blade, not sure it really matters, if it's an aluminium steerer anything will get through it.
Pipe cutter is 10x times easier than hacksaw and neater too. Prob same cost as a few decent hacksaw blades.
Hacksaw still fine though, no idea on teeth count, google says 32t/in for alu.
You're already overthinking it but the biggest risk is cutting it too short, measure it a few times before making that first cut.
Hacksaw still fine though, no idea on teeth count, google says 32t/in for alu.
You're already overthinking it but the biggest risk is cutting it too short, measure it a few times before making that first cut.
Pipe cutter is also a hell of a lot harder to break!
Moggio
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Having cut steerer tube for my bike on new forks as well as on old hand me down forks for my kids bikes and truthfully, as long as you don't cut it too short it doesn't really matter much.
As long as the angle is close to what you can see as straight by eye it will be fine. If the star nut is pretty straight it will be fine. A cruddy old hacksaw will get through easily too. Basically there is quite a bit of tolerance so its hard to really screw up.
HOWEVER, if a jobs worth doing its worth doing properly. Use something to make sure the cut is straight (skill or some kind of mechanical guide) and then file or sand it down so its not sharp (an aluminum filing splinter later on is annoying). Make sure the star nut is straight and moved clear of your cut before you cut.
But MOST importantly measure and measure again... and then again, and maybe one more time, and again. Just to make sure you are cutting it to the right length.
As long as the angle is close to what you can see as straight by eye it will be fine. If the star nut is pretty straight it will be fine. A cruddy old hacksaw will get through easily too. Basically there is quite a bit of tolerance so its hard to really screw up.
HOWEVER, if a jobs worth doing its worth doing properly. Use something to make sure the cut is straight (skill or some kind of mechanical guide) and then file or sand it down so its not sharp (an aluminum filing splinter later on is annoying). Make sure the star nut is straight and moved clear of your cut before you cut.
But MOST importantly measure and measure again... and then again, and maybe one more time, and again. Just to make sure you are cutting it to the right length.
If you use a pipe cutter don't be heavy handed and take your time. If you try to cut too deep you will cause the steerer to bulge at the cut which will need to be filed down to fit the stem and spacers. Use it to mark the steerer and then cut with a hacksaw. More teeth per inch (tpi) the better but 32 is good all round.
Take your time and make sure it is long enough!
Take your time and make sure it is long enough!
stirk
Burner
I bought a special guide tool just for the job so I'm guaranteed a perfect cut.
http://www.birzman.com/products.php?src=prod&prod_sn=188
If you are Sydney based you could borrow it.
And if you don't have a hacksaw you need one. Get a hacksaw you can angle the blade on, makes cutting installed bolts down easy, particularly if they are close to the mounted surface. I.e. Bolt in the ground.
http://www.birzman.com/products.php?src=prod&prod_sn=188
If you are Sydney based you could borrow it.
And if you don't have a hacksaw you need one. Get a hacksaw you can angle the blade on, makes cutting installed bolts down easy, particularly if they are close to the mounted surface. I.e. Bolt in the ground.
mitchy_
Llama calmer
It should really be chamfered on the cut edge anyway.
teK--
Eats Squid
I used an old stem the first time and it was a bit rough had to even up with a file.
Second time had a carbon steerer so I bought a tool similar to above and a good 32TPI blade (highspeed type normally for cutting steel).
If you buy the proper tools they last forever.
ForkinGreat
Knows his Brassica oleracea
use a guide and a new hacksaw blade.
dave3210go
Squid
I got a 2nd hand 150mm fox ctd front fork rly cheap because it had been cut about 10mm too short below bar stem and the star nut too deep.
With 8mm tapered bar stem spacer, the steerer tube sat maybe 5mm under the topmost clamping bolt, which barely engaged the end of the locking capscrew to the star nut (seated just under the top of the tube).
The old star nut was roughly 30mm down the inside of the steerer as sold, and that had to be bashed all the way through to the bottom with a small sledge and steel pipe.
Critical limits: Know the minimum height of your bottom stack spacing, and the clearance height of the headset stem from the steerer tube. Do not forget the reach of your headset locking capscrew when you press the star nut into the steerer tube.
With 8mm tapered bar stem spacer, the steerer tube sat maybe 5mm under the topmost clamping bolt, which barely engaged the end of the locking capscrew to the star nut (seated just under the top of the tube).
The old star nut was roughly 30mm down the inside of the steerer as sold, and that had to be bashed all the way through to the bottom with a small sledge and steel pipe.
Critical limits: Know the minimum height of your bottom stack spacing, and the clearance height of the headset stem from the steerer tube. Do not forget the reach of your headset locking capscrew when you press the star nut into the steerer tube.
Can I ask what you got and where you got it? I'll be needing to do a trim soon and I will be going through the same process.
I just went to Supercheap Auto and bought this thing:
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Toledo-Tube-Cutter-3-30mm-301033.aspx?pid=SPO79998#Recommendations
It took a while but ended up cutting through it. It probably wouldn't last another tube or two, maybe a higher quality one would. I'd suggest just making a deep groove with the tube cutter then using a hacksaw to finish it off as suggested by others here.
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Just get the cutting guide and sleep easy. I've chopped more than my fair share of steerer tubes and a cutting guide is the key. I've used cheap shitty $2 shop hack saws and fancy as fuck ones. All produce the same outcome with a guide. Throw in a quick touch of file for a neat finish. Then hose (I prefer water, but you can do air or dirt if you like) down thoroughly to ensure no little bits of metal are waiting to ambush your seals and stanchions.
Note: obviously the cheap shitty saws will run out of cutting power quicker than the flash jobs. But you'll get a few tubes before they are through!
Note: obviously the cheap shitty saws will run out of cutting power quicker than the flash jobs. But you'll get a few tubes before they are through!
spoozbucket
Likes Dirt
I know it's been done but you can just wrap electrical tape around the steerer and use the edge as a guide, then file it perfect and use the butt of the chisel to scrape the inside of the steerer and remove the rubbish.
Oh, also have your index finger extended running along the top of the frame, makes accurate cuts a lot easier.
Oh, also have your index finger extended running along the top of the frame, makes accurate cuts a lot easier.
stirk
Burner
Bwhahahha
Why do pandas waste money all the time on cheap crap!
Buy well once, use many times.
Good tools reward with the pleasure of use, hacksaws are pricks of things in the lower cheap spectrum. Wobbly soft blades guarantee a dodgy cut. I've got a decent Stanley joby, is so nice to use.