Deco granite over rocky trail surface?

SCHOEY

Likes Bikes and Dirt
So, if you were to import material to fix a real rocky uphill section of trail, would deco granite be the best product? Decent soil is scarce nearby & rather than bring in standard soil, am I right in thinking that deco granite would make for more of an all weather trail?

The deco wouldn't look as natural, but could be a worthwhile compromise.


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outtacontrol

Likes Bikes and Dirt
We have had success using deco as a trail surface on very rocky sections, but they have all been treated with a soild additive like Geo r bond (not sure about spelling). It basically changes the chemical make up the soil and helps to set like concrete. Needs water and compaction...
 

rowdyflat

chez le médecin
Decomposed granite needs some clay to bind to or a soil conditioner to make it solid + good water drainage otherwise it will wash off the rocks.
 

GeurieMTB

Likes Dirt
Where r the rocks? Looks like youve already got a rideable trail. Weve used some deco on a trail to ramp to immovable large rocks. You dont want to be building everything smooth, rocks are good, we are MTBers after all
 

SCHOEY

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Where r the rocks? Looks like youve already got a rideable trail. Weve used some deco on a trail to ramp to immovable large rocks. You dont want to be building everything smooth, rocks are good, we are MTBers after all
The trail is rideable, but was identified as the least enjoyed section of trail in a recent survey from a large group of trail riders. It's about 500m long in a 2km uphill section . You should come ride our trails, we definately are not scared of rocks.
 

trailworx

Likes Bikes
You may have better luck with road base, the council might be able to help out there?
When you enquire about the roadbase the quarries are likely to ask you what specification you require?
For trails the spec doesn't mean much, we need a higher clay content than roads, and about 20mm rock.
I usually visit the quarry and squeeze the roadbase in my hand, it really needs to bind together, even when it is only just damp.
Sorry I haven't used any Toowoomba quarries, but have used some really nice browny, orange clay/sandstone stuff from near Gatton, so Toowoomba should be similar.
I have paid $12-$25 a tonne excluding delivery.
Smash it down hard with a plate compactor as soon as you get it down, and if you have regular grade reversals and a bit of an outslope here and there, the roadbase will give you a great surface that will last for ages.
 

Ridenparadise

Likes Bikes and Dirt
So, if you were to import material to fix a real rocky uphill section of trail, would deco granite be the best product? Decent soil is scarce nearby & rather than bring in standard soil, am I right in thinking that deco granite would make for more of an all weather trail?

The deco wouldn't look as natural, but could be a worthwhile compromise.


View attachment 273550
I think I know this type of "soil". If similar to Nerang, it is lots of loose floaters on a layer of broken rock with roots through it and mostly on a clay layer. Regardless, what I see is a stony tread that has good outslope and excavated rock on the outslope. Pics make everything blend and I bet it is a rough surface.

Whilst most people say you should not line the outslope with anything as it impedes drainage, in fact here we have found it can work to accumulate silt over this sort of stony tread and smooth it over time. However, you have to have limited outslope, like the classic flattish or cupped, fall line trail where water runs along the trail and scours out soil exposing the stones. In this pic an old log has maintained a bit of tread and kept it silted where all around it has scoured

Log why.jpg

Limited trail sculpting slows water flow and deposits sediment along the barrier. Logs work better than stone barriers, being more water-tight (wash my mouth out with IMBA Holy Water).

However, because your trail looks well built, I'm afraid the answer is not adding anything yet, but waiting for rain. When this late season ends and the ground is soaked, get out with sledge hammers and bash every stone into the tread. Some will break up and provide a layer of fill. Then tamp it all down flat. Next time it softens you could add 2cm gravel. Blue metal may look right on your trail. Smash as much into the flat tread as you can. It may be better to just repeat the sledge hammering at intervals. Hard yakka, but very effective as the tread becomes more hardened each time you do it.

There is also the option to dig rather large grade reversals. It may remain a rough trail, but the grade changes make climbers feel stronger as they get the odd rest and can pick up speed to flow over stones (29'er style :mullet:). Using a bit of eye of faith in this pic you can see smaller stones over roots where larger rock (like in the background) was removed and you can see the deeper clay layer in the grade dip. This is really rocky and stony terrain and it took a lot of work to get it this flat

P1060358.jpg

I hope you get riders happy. It is hard to do so in some places, so do it bit by bit. Best of luck
 
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