Easy oil change of 01 super t pro ?

L

limeyfingers

Likes Dirt
Hi guys, just purchased a spare bike whilst my pro deluxe is being butchered, it says super t pro on the back of fork but looks pretty skinny. First up, is this really a super t ? Second up, is there some easy easy way to change the oil without risking seals and such ( due to age). I have no PDF reader that works so a simple explanation would be handy. Thanks for any help, limey
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Mywifesirrational

Mywifesirrational

I however am very normal. Trust me.
It certainly looks like a Super T to me, although its been a looong time since I owned one, really nice fork for it's era.

From memory they are a 32mm? stanchion, or maybe even a 30mm (?) compared to todays forks they look flimsy, even worse when compared to a Monster T.
 
L

limeyfingers

Likes Dirt
Cheers mate, I had a monster t before this, that's why I was a bit sus, looked huge compared to this. Thanks for confirmation that I hadn't been dudded, limey
 
S

schred

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Can't recall the specifics but the Marz website would be a good start, it has info going well back into the archives.

That fork could be special but Marz had a tendency not to anodize any of the internals or cartridge parts, leading to easily contaminated oil. i.e. new oil would quickly be recontaminated unless you can clean all the old stuff out. Otherwise top caps off, dump, sacrificial quantity, cycle damper rods, empty, and refill would do.

Bushing change was easy, seals too. I'm only guessing that it's a similar seal size to the current/recent ones? So it may not be that hard to find replacements. Besides, if you are that concerned the seals are too fragile to look at, might not be up for riding on?

And be prepared to use a lot of oil!
 
L

limeyfingers

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Thanks mate, that's what I needed to know, trying to get a couple of weeks out of them til I can afford the parts to rebuild it. Would the stanchions just slide out of the seals (they did on a dj3) if I did pull them apart, and easily back or is replacement of seals advised, thanks for your help, limey
 
urallwrong

urallwrong

Likes Dirt
Sweet blast from the past mate! Look, if these aren't leaking oil at the seal, don't worry about replacing 'em. I'd strongly suggest pulling them apart and giving the lowers a quick clean. Do NOT waste money on quality oil for these. Good transmission oil is the go for any old school Bomber aficionado.

If you can't find any info on service, feel free to pm. Oh, and when you decide to crack them open, BEWARE of toxic aroma!!
 
L

limeyfingers

Likes Dirt
Thanks for your help, should I use soapy water (don't hit me) or metho to clean out the crap once drained of oil, thanks
 
EMF

EMF

Eats Squid
OIL heights

limeyfingers said:
Thanks for your help, should I use soapy water (don't hit me) or metho to clean out the crap once drained of oil, thanks
Click to expand...
Yup A mind blowing fork back in the day just like the Junior T

Clean them out with Shellite then fill forks (compressed, springs removed) to the recommended oil height (7.5w ?) measured form the top of the stanchions.

Easy
 
urallwrong

urallwrong

Likes Dirt
Soap won't do much for the sludge that'll be caked in these. Metho, citrus or other aggressive cleaning agent should be fine. Dry thoroughly. The stock fill on these is indeed 7.5wt. Honestly, the ATF(auto tranny fluid) will yield fantastic results in open bath forks(all old bomber, stratos etc) and have the much needed high viscosity index which will help prevent maxing out the rebound adjustment. Fill to recommended height which is typically measured from the top of compressed leg(after cycling a few times to load damper) minus springs as said above. If you're heavy... add 10-20mm of oil height. Lighter riders can run less oil volume. And presto... Frickin butter.... If seals are needed, they can still be had. Should be removable 4" bushing in these.

I remember the good old days when I got to service these daily at the shop.
 
urallwrong

urallwrong

Likes Dirt
If you happen to be within 30 minutes of the Gong, I'd gladly come hang out and help. For nostalgic reasons of course. :canada:
 
Warp

Warp

Likes Dirt
I always liked Diesel to clean grease or oil-muck off.

Same, just undo the foot nuts, undo the top caps, clean and refill. If you are bottoming too easy, add more oil. If you are not bottoming, remove a little.

I miss when forks where that simple.
 
L

limeyfingers

Likes Dirt
Warp said:
I always liked Diesel to clean grease or oil-muck off.

Same, just undo the foot nuts, undo the top caps, clean and refill. If you are bottoming too easy, add more oil. If you are not bottoming, remove a little.

I miss when forks where that simple.
Click to expand...
The oldies seem to be much more plush to me, not a pro rider so effective suspension is not that important, I actually enjoy riding the old bikes much more than the newer ones I have had. If only I could afford the super 8 that was for sale in the downhill sales :smokin:
 
L

limeyfingers

Likes Dirt
Thanks a lot guys, I think I may do a proper rebuild if it seems worth while ( depends on internals). Thanks for the links for seals and bushings. Shall have to do it freeball as pdfs don't download in a readable fashion, limey
 
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