Elixir problems yet again!!

[downhill_nuts]

Im having yet another problem with my Elixirs this is the second problem with my second set, really over these things worst brake I have ever owned.

There seems to be a weird squishy sound coming out of the lever kinda hard to explain the noise bit like a mixture of air and fluid. But there is no traces of oil around the lever.
On top of this the pads are tight on the rotor and the wheel will not spin freely, as this is the R model it has no pad contact adjuster.

These brakes were working fine when they come on my Glory and sat in a box for a few months as I upgraded them to the CR model witch started to take in air through the contact adjustment. But has since been fixed under warranty.

Just wanted to find out if anyone else has had a similar problem and if its capable of over filling with brake fluid?

 

[Fisher]

Mine feel great, but then again I've only ridden it about 2-3 times.

With the lever.
Today my Hayes stroker was making a kind of squelchy sound (Kind of like its clicking, but it sounds squelchy at the same time) when I pulled it so, in all seriousness, I spat on the lever, wiped it off and the noise had gone.
Basically it just needed lubrication of some sort, we used TF2 on my nines, but I was out riding and it was pissing me off.But yeah, use some spray lube, its better than saliva (Unless there is something bad about putting this on the lever). Wipe it off the blade though.
It doesn't actually affect performance though.

But it could be a completely different noise.

 

[nickhagee]

recently got a pair on a new bike and had the same problem where the pads sat too close to the rotor. i actually had to push the pistons back in as they were already sitting pumped out, then progressively align the caliper and straighten the rotor (sometimes, came out of the box a little bent).
the pistons actually pumped back out and i sorta got it but its still isnt perfect. ugh.
ive found though they are marginally better than the juicies in their feel and reliablilty on the trail... as in no fade nor do i lose all function when the fluid heats up.

 

[downhill_nuts]

Yeah i tried pushing the pistons back it worked for a bit but eventually went back to how it was.

 

[Pete_10]

I'd say that'd be a bleeding stuff up/problem. Have they been bled?

 

[downhill_nuts]

From factory but were fine before packing into a box.

 

[jham66]

Mine, after pushing the pistons out to put new pads in, used to intermittently have a complete failure. I took them back to my LBS and they had them sent off for a warranty repair. They haven't done it since, but I know that squelch noise that you are talking about, it was the first symptom. They also ran on chronically when the new pads went in and this was definitely because they were over juiced! I ended up cracking the bleed port screw at the lever to let a small amount of dot fluid out; then pushed the pistons fully out and replaced the pads. I haven't had them run on since.

I think that they are factory bled with he pads in, not the spacers. I recommend re-bleeding them properly with the pads out and bleed spacers in.

 

[flyracing]

I've recently bought some elixer r's and they seem to rub all the time I've pushed the pistons back as far as they go, tried aligning the caliper about 100 times and they still rub. It really gives me the shits.

Anything I can do about this?
sorry bout the hijack mate.

 

[dirt_rider17]

i have the same problem as you guys, i can never get the caliper to stop rubbing and my bushings like shit themselves and they pop out by themselves just going down the track.

 

[downhill_nuts]

Im sorta glad im not the only one then. Everyone on here has been giving them such a wrap and all I have had is trouble with them both the R's and CR's. Think I might try some juicey's on my 4X bike im sick of the dramas.

 

[Regan]

I've seen this problem quite a few times. I think the system is overfilled a bit from the factory. You just need to reset the fluid levels. First remove the caliper from the bike and take out the pads. Then crack the bleed nipple at the lever. Always keep the bleed port facing up so no air will enter the system. I just lean the bike over or take off the lever and mount it somewhere (bench vice) so the bleed port it facing skyward. Now push the pistons all the way back until they stop (excess fluid will drain out the lever). You may need to go back and forth between the two pistons a few times to get them both fully back. Re-install the bleed port and wipe down the lever. After re-installing the pads hold the caliper over the rotor with your hand and pump out the pistons making sure the both pump out evenly. Bolt the caliper back on leaving the bolts a quarter turn loose. Hold in the lever and the tighten bolt. Check that the caliper is centred over rotor and running drag free. If not, try quarter loose, holding lever, tightening again... Sometimes I like to finish it off manually by loosening one bolt at a time so the caliper stays square with the disc.

 

[hendo79]

Not directly related to teh above, but I have been trying to change the pads on my elixir rear brake and i can't for the life get the bolt out. The front one just unscrewed and dropped out beautifully, but the rear has unscrewed past the thread but will go no further.

I may have compounded the issue as i tried to tap the bolt out from behind, so i'm hoping i haven't damaged it further. I'm perplexed as to why it may have got stuck, and what to do now??

My mate suggested drilling the bolt out, but i'm hoping there is a simpler solution. Anyone come across this?

Awesome brakes otherwise.

 

[Wellsey]

Not directly related to teh above, but I have been trying to change the pads on my elixir rear brake and i can't for the life get the bolt out. The front one just unscrewed and dropped out beautifully, but the rear has unscrewed past the thread but will go no further.

I may have compounded the issue as i tried to tap the bolt out from behind, so i'm hoping i haven't damaged it further. I'm perplexed as to why it may have got stuck, and what to do now??

My mate suggested drilling the bolt out, but i'm hoping there is a simpler solution. Anyone come across this?

Awesome brakes otherwise.

Have you removed the safety e-clip from the inside end of the bolt?

 

[hendo79]

Have you removed the safety e-clip from the inside end of the bolt?

Yes. The bolt has unscrewed through the caliper so the end is flush with the outside of the hole in the caliper. It almost seems like the nipple the clip clips onto is catching in the caliper hole.

 

[maxwolfie]

Mine, after pushing the pistons out to put new pads in, used to intermittently have a complete failure. I took them back to my LBS and they had them sent off for a warranty repair. They haven't done it since, but I know that squelch noise that you are talking about, it was the first symptom. They also ran on chronically when the new pads went in and this was definitely because they were over juiced! I ended up cracking the bleed port screw at the lever to let a small amount of dot fluid out; then pushed the pistons fully out and replaced the pads. I haven't had them run on since.

I think that they are factory bled with he pads in, not the spacers. I recommend re-bleeding them properly with the pads out and bleed spacers in.

Yeah, same issue here. Squeaky, and had to let some fluid out to fit the new pads in, as there was too much fluid.

Also had the squeaky issue too, use some silicon spray.

Has anyone had any issues with the "clicking forward" action? Mine are all whacky.

 

[outback]

With the rubbing issues remove the pads and push both pistons back in, if one keeps coming out when you push the other in then the system is over filled.
To solve that problem while pushing on one piston crack the bleed screw on the caliper and let some fluid out, keep pressure on the piston (screwdriver) then tighten the screw back up.
With the pads still out hold one piston in and pump the lever a few times so the other piston comes out about 3 or 4mm then grease or lube the piston with a silicon grease (volvo outboard white grease) or spray oil, then push it back in and repeat with the other doing the same. They stay out and rub because they are dry and stick even new.
Then give them a quick spray of degreaser or rotor cleaner and a blast of air if you have a compressor and a wipe with a clean cloth and reinstall the pads.
Reset the caliper with the rotor in the center and retighten the bolts so the pistons both have a chance to come out evenly when you pump the lever. If that doesn't work try the avid way and slacken the bolts off squeeze and hold the lever and retighten the bolts.
Always nip the bolts up a little at a time alternating between bolts or you move the caliper out of alignment when you give one big wrench on a bolt.
And one more thing all avid rotors are crap! I use Hope floating rotors or Ashima rotors on the light bikes. Dont forget to change the adapters if you change a disc size.
My two cents worth and hope it helps someone, sorry for the long post.