Fork upgrade (from suntour xc somejunk to reba rl) Specialized Rockhopper 29er

C

creole

Likes Bikes
Heyo


Im going through the process of upgrading the fork on my runabout '13 Specialized Rockhopper 29er.
Currently it has a suntour xcm 1 1/8th non tapered, with an apparent 'reducer'.

"1-1/8" w/ lower bearing reducer, Campy style, integrated full cartridge bearingss"
http://www.specialized.com/au/en-au/...opper-29#specs

The head tube appears tapered and the pro model comes with a Rockshox Reba (1 1/8 to 1.5)

What bits and pieces would i need to fit a a rocksho Reba (tapered tube) into the frame? This reducer business... i dont like it.. is it just a bush that i can pop out and the new tapered fork will bang straight in? Will i need a new crown race? will i need a crown bearing sized to fit the tapered tube? or will the existing bearing work with that reducer thingymebob removed?

Im fairly noob to all this campy integrated stuff, and would like to diy as much as i can before taking it to the LBS. Or is this something that an LBS should do rather than a ham fisted individual like myself?

thanks!
 
Alo661

Alo661

Likes Bikes and Dirt
If there is a reducer on your current fork, take that off and remove the crown race from the reducer. Put the crown race onto your new Reba without the reducer. That's all you'll have to do.

Could do the job with a screwdriver and hammer if you wanted to. Take the fork to your LBS and ask if they can just take the crown race off and put it on your new fork, shouldn't be more than $10-20.

Existing headset is already a tapered headset, you wouldn't need anything new.
 
C

creaky

XMAS Plumper
I'm running a specialised lower headset reducer on a non-specialised frame. It is a press fit into head tube item to allow you to run a 1 1/8 lower headset bearing and crown race.

OP will probably need to tap this reducer out, get a new 1 1/2 headset bearing and matched crown race to work with the tapered fork. I would go to a specialised dealer. They should be able to tap the reducer out of the head tube (their risk !) and supply a standard lower nearing and race.
 
pharmaboy

pharmaboy

Eats Squid
Pull the fork off the frame and have a look and maybe take a photo.

The reducer can be either in the headset or it an be an expander that is hammered onto the top of the fork, and then the crown race is hammered onto to that. My guess is that it will be an expander on the top of the fork fixed more or less permanently to the fork, and the campy race will be the thing you need to remove. These races can sometimes be removed, but I wouldn't guarantee it - having put them onto a reba to go into a spesh camber frame, I wouldn't like to try and remove the bastard without wrecking it.

Truly though, go a bike shop, they should have a pipe with the same internal diameter, and use that to put the race on nice and square, mine charged me $10 - took a couple of minutes tops with the right tools.

Despite the specs, there are 3 ways it could have been done, the only way to be sure is take the fork out and have a look.
 
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C

creole

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C

creaky

XMAS Plumper
creole said:
Yeh i pulled the fork out and the 1 1/8th reducer bearing is pressed into the headset but can come out reasonably easy.

I found this guide below , and the 'low bearing' with fork C is exactly how it currently is. And i will be going the D route. So i would assume all i need it to tap out the reducer bearing and fit in a 1.5" bearing. Hrmm seems a bit too easy.



http://service.specialized.com/collateral/ownersguide/new/assets/pdf/Fork---Head-Tube-Fork-Compatibility-Guide.pdf
Click to expand...
That's basically it. You will need a crown race matched to your new bottom headset bearing. The pressfit into my (non specialized) frame was 'tight'. If it is a carbon headtube like mine be careful removing it.
 
C

creole

Likes Bikes
Thanks Creaky.

One more Q, would i need the specific Specialised 1 1/2 bearing (52OD x40 ID x 7W), or will any 'generic' 1 1/2" integrated bearing work?
 
C

creaky

XMAS Plumper
creole said:
Thanks Creaky.

One more Q, would i need the specific Specialised 1 1/2 bearing (52OD x40 ID x 7W), or will any 'generic' 1 1/2" integrated bearing work?
Click to expand...
Dunno. If anyone could make an incompatible proprietary part then it is Specialized !

The fact that the specialized head tube reducer fitted in my standard head tube would suggest that they use standard bearings. Probably best to ask someone with experience and or a Speccy dealer.
 
ozdavo

ozdavo

Likes Dirt
creole said:
Thanks Creaky.

One more Q, would i need the specific Specialised 1 1/2 bearing (52OD x40 ID x 7W), or will any 'generic' 1 1/2" integrated bearing work?
Click to expand...
The bearing will have a chamfered edge. AFAIK there are different angles available for this chamfer and it needs to match the cup.
A generic bearing with those dimensions will not have the chamfer. A generic headset bearing will have a chamfer, but may not match.


Sent from my iThingy using Tapatalk
 
pharmaboy

pharmaboy

Eats Squid
G'day there are 3 standards for headsets. Specialized are using campy headsets in their frames, this is also described as 45/45 headset. There is also 35x45 cane creek, and 36x36 which is TH

Stick to 45x45 and you'll be sweet. If the crown race is split and the included bearing is 1.5 you won't have to buy anything , otherwise you'll need a campy bottom 1.5 which will come with a race to go on the fork

Isn't this fun? :)

More standards than you can shake a stick at ( at least it's modern and so less stds to worry about).

I am not a bike mechanic, I have changed a spesh tapered over to a straight steerer so am going off memory.........
 
C

creole

Likes Bikes
all worked out well. Bought a 1 1/8th to 1.5" 45/45 headset, and popped out the reducer cup bearing off the bikes headtube, put in the 1.5" bearing and race, and new top 1 1/8th baering and spacers and works a treat. Reba rl dual air is great! so much lighter too.

thanks guys.
 
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