Formula Cura 4s

BT180

Max Pfaff
Just ordered some Cura 4s for the new whip. May be a bit late, but can anyone tell me why I shouldn't? Cura 2-pots seem to get great reviews, so figure the 4s will be the same but with added OTB capability. Can't really find any reviews on the 4s.

I think the only downsides may be parts and warranty replacements. Thoughts?
 

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
Just ordered some Cura 4s for the new whip. May be a bit late, but can anyone tell me why I shouldn't? Cura 2-pots seem to get great reviews, so figure the 4s will be the same but with added OTB capability. Can't really find any reviews on the 4s.

I think the only downsides may be parts and warranty replacements. Thoughts?
Where did you get them from?

I'm keen to give them a shot given the whole Shimano geoblocking fubar.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 

DMan

shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
Lol. Does it matter what people think now? You'll be the guinea pig soon enough anyway and you can tell us..
 

BT180

Max Pfaff
Yes. @Hipstar rated them as being better than Saints. Hopefully they don't have the leaking issues of Formulas past.

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I think being fully forged they shouldn't. I just hope they have the modulation that the 2-pots allegedly have. They have a VERY short lever throw.
 

Boom King

downloaded a pic of moorey's bruised arse
I'm running the standard Cura on my Spitty and they are great. Power and modulation is fantastic.
 

scblack

Leucocholic
I'd like to say I could be tempted. But I have Saints, so be a minimal gain. But Formula, not Shimano.....

Nah, I'll be sensible.:)
 

Boom King

downloaded a pic of moorey's bruised arse
Have you had any experience with the servicing or parts replacement?
I bent a lever on the RO's that I run on the Rune once. Eightyonespices were happy to sort me out with a spare. Haven't had to bleed the Cura yet as they came with the speed lock connector which works a treat (I did some research and have a bottle of Red Line Likewater for when they need a bleed). Have bled the RO's no problem but they use dot. I get my pads from Discobrakes.
 

BT180

Max Pfaff
I bent a lever on the RO's that I run on the Rune once. Eightyonespices were happy to sort me out with a spare. Haven't had to bleed the Cura yet as they came with the speed lock connector which works a treat (I did some research and have a bottle of Red Line Likewater for when they need a bleed). Have bled the RO's no problem but they use dot. I get my pads from Discobrakes.
Sweet. Good to know Disco stock pads. The speed lock does seem like a great idea
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
Just ordered some Cura 4s for the new whip. May be a bit late, but can anyone tell me why I shouldn't? Cura 2-pots seem to get great reviews, so figure the 4s will be the same but with added OTB capability. Can't really find any reviews on the 4s.

I think the only downsides may be parts and warranty replacements. Thoughts?
I don't have the model brakes you have but I've been able to get a lot of Formula spare parts from US online shops, ebay and some from Merlin.
 

John U

MTB Precision
Yes. @Hipstar rated them as being better than Saints. Hopefully they don't have the leaking issues of Formulas past.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
Are you sure the ‘leaking’ isn’t a maintenance issue? Formula uses Dot4 which expands when it adsorbs stuff from the atmosphere. Over time this creates a greater volume for the fluid in the system. If they don’t get a bleed fluid comes out other ways.
I had quite a few sets and was pretty slack with the bleeding. There was a valve on the handler bar clamp where the fluid would come out in very small amounts on brakes that weren’t serviced. I even found it on some 10 year old brand new sets.
 

shmity

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I have a set on my commencal, they are great! Order the sintered pads as mine shipped with resin that are not optimum. The lever blades aren't to my liking but i've just received a second pair of lever blades only to a) 3d model so i can print a few testers and get some new ones cnc'd and b) heat and bend to my liking for the interim. When chainging your pads be very careful of the little circlip on the pin, mine fucks off all over the place when I take it off and try to put it back on. Modulation is good, lever pull feel is very light, Im not a fan of the ergonomics.

All your spare parts can be got from alltricks.com a french site but holds stock of everything you could want at very good prices. Grab some spares now for piece of mind while you get your pads on order as well.
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
Are you sure the ‘leaking’ isn’t a maintenance issue? Formula uses Dot4 which expands when it adsorbs stuff from the atmosphere. Over time this creates a greater volume for the fluid in the system. If they don’t get a bleed fluid comes out other ways.
I had quite a few sets and was pretty slack with the bleeding. There was a valve on the handler bar clamp where the fluid would come out in very small amounts on brakes that weren’t serviced. I even found it on some 10 year old brand new sets.
My C1's have a tiny drilling weep hole where the thread to the brake line is and when 1 of them leaked, I initially thought the compression nut was loose or the o ring was leaking but it was the rubber diaphragm inside which connects onto the cartridge barrel, If you get corrosion forming inside the cylinder and go to rebleed the brakes by undoing the bleeder that locks the cartridge body inside, you can disturb the seal between the bladder and cartridge. The C1s hand pieces are not rebuildable though so it;s replace the whole handle.

My R1's haven't leaked yet and they are about 5~6 years, I haven't pulled them down to know whats inside them.
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
Just put some pics here to let people know what I'm talking about and my educated guess will be that the original intent of the hole in the C1s is there to let air out from behind the bladder and let you know if the bladder has failed.

351618
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