Front shock advice

R

RangaWal

Likes Bikes
It appears my 2013 Giant Trance 29er (https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/trance-x-29er-0-2013) requires front shock repairs. I'm a bit of a newbie, so I'm a bit vague on what's wrong, but apparently the legs need replacing amongst other items. I've been quoted $620 for repair, or $1090 for complete replacement.

Does this sound reasonable?
Any cheaper options for repair or replacement?
 
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thepotatokid

thepotatokid

Likes Dirt
RangaWal said:
It appears my 2013 Giant Trance 29er (https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/trance-x-29er-0-2013) requires front shock repairs. I'm a bit of a newbie, so I'm a bit vague on what's wrong, but apparently the legs need replacing amongst other items. I've been quoted $620 for repair, or $1090 for complete replacement.

Does this sound reasonable?
Any cheaper options for repair or replacement?
Click to expand...
That price is definitely not cheap but not daylight robbery either. Which new fork have they quoted for?

You can definitely get a cheaper replacement fork than that.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 
hifiandmtb

hifiandmtb

Sphincter beanie
Your current fork has an Overdrive 2 steerer, maybe keeping that means your LBS has quoted a higher price for a harder to source fork.

But you can choose any 29er 15mm axle 120mm tapered steerer fork & you'd be ok. Just buy a new stem & headset upper assembly.

Sounds complicated but it isn't...
 
R

RangaWal

Likes Bikes
hifiandmtb said:
Your current fork has an Overdrive 2 steerer, maybe keeping that means your LBS has quoted a higher price for a harder to source fork.

But you can choose any 29er 15mm axle 120mm tapered steerer fork & you'd be ok. Just buy a new stem & headset upper assembly.

Sounds complicated but it isn't...
Click to expand...
Something like this suitable? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...at-performance-forks-boost-2017/rp-prod173920 or http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...t-terralogic-factory-forks-2015/rp-prod144021 ? 20mm less travel than the existing, but I don't do anything remotely extreme on it.

Can you point me at a suitable stem & headset upper assembly?
 
moorey

moorey

call me Mia
100mm won’t kill you, but will steepen the head angle, and lower your BB by around 10mm.
 
moorey

moorey

call me Mia
It’s very short in the steerer. Possibly too short for your frame.

Edit. Yes, avoid stanchion damage. Dodgy not mentioning it.
 
The Duckmeister

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
hifiandmtb said:
Top headset assembly, I need to research more...
Click to expand...
Utterly bog-standard (yes, such a thing does exist in the Bike Industry!) ZS44 semi-integrated 1 1/8" threadless. Giant and headset supplier FSA at least had the decency to stay consistent with the headtube diameters so you're not locked to one size or the other. They do occasionally show a bit of sense. :)
 
pink poodle

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
Here's a good reference point for you with the headset:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/au/en/nukeproof-mix-match-top-headset-cup/rp-prod124571
It's an easy job:
- Take forks off bike
- Ensure bike is stable (bike stand or sturdy friend is handy for this)
- Punch out the top cup (don't use a screw driver as it can gouge the inside of the head tube.
- Clean and grease head tube
- Drop new top cap into place and tap it in with a her and wood block (assuming you don't have a press).

It's a 15 minute job if it all goes smoothly. The you can pop your new forks in and tweak the bars. You'll need to pop the bearing race off the old forks and pop it onto the new forks. Or you could put a new headset lower cup in as well and have a whole fresh headset. I'm going to wager the head tube ID is 44mm upper and 56mm lower, but the link you provided has no headset listed.

With the forks

These would be worth the hassle of changing the bottom cup:
https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/manitou-machete-comp-mountain-bike-fork-29-120mm-t/FK-MT-F29

Otherwise put some more travel on there and live the large life...
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...nsion-rhythm-float-29-fork-2017/rp-prod163395

Some good sales on boost forks as well. You could spend the savings on a boost wheel.
 
R

RangaWal

Likes Bikes
So, rang service place back today and mentioned I was considering other options. I don't think they were being disingenuous when they told me they had found a cheaper option, now down to about $440 to repair (I'm happy to give them the benefit of the doubt - they're a reputable mob).

Think I might just go with that this time. Despite that, thanks everyone for their advice, very much appreciated!
 
pink poodle

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
If you're happy with the fork that will save you a few dollars, but you'll still have an old fork. I'd stretch the extra cash and go larger and newer...
 
R

RangaWal

Likes Bikes
So, just picked up the bike with the freshly service rear shock, and replaced forks/service on the front.

Come someone please explain lock-out, i.e. how stiff should the suspension be when locked out? I gave them my correct weight (no, I didn't cheat!), but unfortunately I couldn't test them by sitting on the bike at the shop due to a flat front tubeless tyre they couldn't inflate (I did it first go when I got home). After getting home, inflating the tyre, and having a test ride, they don't seem really any better than the supposedly kaput shocks that were on it, because IMO, there's not really that much difference between locked and unlocked!

Anyone care to weigh in?
 
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