Fucked up my Pace forks? Help please!

Justin Fox

Justin Fox

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Hi guys,

I bought some Pace RC39 forks off eBay from a guy who just had them serviced (apparently factory serviced too).



I was playing with the rebound knob on the Pace forks and I kept screwing it clockwise until I noticed that the knob came out of the fork a little. Curiosity got the better of me so I pulled it out, heard some oil pressure noises and now I can't get the fucking thing back down. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Gekigengar

Gekigengar

Likes Dirt
BWahahahahah nice justin. Not as bad as my other mate. Tried to service his forks upside down, undid a nob without releasing the pressure and fork oil sprayed in all directions. (its hard to get oil stains off the ceiling).

Anyway best bet is to release all the pressure inside that sanction and try then, that maybe what is stopping you from pushing it back in.

wait.? Can you push the rod all the way down, or it just wont screw back in.?


Best bet is to ask "AngloXC" he is the fork guru around here, not sure if he knows much about pace forks though.

Good luck:) and see you on sunday
 
Justin Fox

Justin Fox

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Yeah Timmy I can't push it in any more due to pressure. There is a bolt underneath but I'm pretty sure if I unbolt that oil will come pouring out?!
 
Gekigengar

Gekigengar

Likes Dirt
I would help you google the internals workings of pace. But my net is stuffed and i have an exam soon.

And i dont have much knowledge on pace forks, no neg or positive valves to release?
 
Justin Fox

Justin Fox

Likes Bikes and Dirt
No valves, only 2 bit allen key screws at the bottom of each side of the fork.

Some infor I found:
How do I do an oil change on an RC39?
1) Unsrew rebound adjuster anticlockwise until disengaged from cartridge. 2) Pull rebound/control valve assy up and remove circlip below holding top cap. 3) Continue to pull control assy up and out of crown (care-oil spillage). 4) Invert fork over container compressing 2 or 3 times to drain oil. 5) Refill open stanchion with new suspension oil to level/volume prescribed. 6) Check operation of L/O cable and valve and replace control assy complete into open stanchion. 7) Continue pushing control valve down to engage with cartridge ensuring lockout is off and screw home.

RC39 tech diagram and manual:
https://www.pacecycles.com/downloads/RC31_RC39.pdf
 
Christo

Christo

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Justin Fox said:
Yeah Timmy I can't push it in any more due to pressure. There is a bolt underneath but I'm pretty sure if I unbolt that oil will come pouring out?!
Click to expand...
Hey Justin,

In the manual you posted up the right stanchion has an air valve under the dust cap, I just guessing that this is why you can't compress the fork enough. Try releasing the pressure in there.

Hope that helps but secretly due to my intense jealousy of your beautiful bike - I hope your fork explodes and takes out your king headset & titanium headtube!;)

Just kidding, good luck.
 
Justin Fox

Justin Fox

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I need help!

I just let all the air out and the forks dropped. I even unscrewed the bottom 2 allen key bolts, no oil came out.

The shaft will still not go in. I've tried jiggling it, turning it, forcing it... no go.

Can take more details pics if that will help?
 
fairy1

fairy1

Banned
Sorry to be a negative nancy but just throw em out. I got a set of Pace RC41 fighters they blew the damper in the first week. Got em fixed then the damping stopped working when they heated up requiring a re-prime every time.
After all that the bonding on the arch started to split letting oil weep out of the right leg. Never even got em bed in.
These are the worst thing I have ever bought for a bike, even worse than my 2000 Judy triple clamps.
Sell em and buy some Maguras they are in a completely different league.
Duncan at DIY MTB is a very helpful man when it comes to Pace rubbish.
 
AngoXC

AngoXC

Wheel size expert
Humm....Ill give this ago but ive never even seen a set of Pace forks in flesh, so take what I say with a grain of salt.

My guess is that so far, the damper is likely to be shot. At this stage, I think your main objctive is to just get them into an unassembled state so you can start over and rebuild them. Have you tried removing the lowers? Once its clear, youll be confronted with the uppers with two protruding pumping rods, compression on the left (if looking from the front) and damper on the right). The right pumping rod is probably going to be held in place by a circlip of some sort but in removing it, be very careful as I suspect this will be under pressure since you have been trying to force the top piston down on a chamber full of oil. Ill stop there, just see how that goes. Again, be very carful!!

Use this chart as an idea of what to expect when you open them up.
 
S

Sean

Likes Bikes and Dirt
As much as I hate to say it, it may be a job for a very trusted LBS. I hate, hate taking my bike into a bike shop, and avoid it at all costs, but sometimes these things can't be avoided. Especially when it comes to not-so-well-known forks like those. Listen to Ango though, he knows his shiznit when it comes to forks and such.
 
Justin Fox

Justin Fox

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Ango is spot on about the circlip. I will take them to my LBS tomorrow see what they say. Cheers guys.
 
AngoXC

AngoXC

Wheel size expert
Justin Fox said:
Ango is spot on about the circlip. I will take them to my LBS tomorrow see what they say. Cheers guys.
Click to expand...
If you wanna do it yourself,
Use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to remove the clip but I would be say holding the entire shebang with a towel to soften any potential flying projectiles...aim down too.

Hahaha...dampen the blow of the blown damper!
 
Justin Fox

Justin Fox

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Hi guys,

I got an email back from Duncan Miller from www.diymtb.com.au

They were a Pace distributor before Pace were bought out by DT Swiss. He was kind enough to help me out. I called him up and he had a lot of knowledge about the Pace forks and was super helpful.

I knew after speaking with Duncan that I didn't have to buy the circlip plyers and that the shaft really should just drop down then it's a few simple clockwise turns to secure it down. I tried and tried some more with no luck. I then took the fork off the bike and there she went. It must have somehow been the tension on the remote lock-out line.

Anyways, all fixed. How frustrating but at the same time, relieving!!! Thanks to all who took the time to try and help out. I appreciate it!
 
AngoXC

AngoXC

Wheel size expert
Justin Fox said:
Hi guys,

I got an email back from Duncan Miller from www.diymtb.com.au

They were a Pace distributor before Pace were bought out by DT Swiss. He was kind enough to help me out. I called him up and he had a lot of knowledge about the Pace forks and was super helpful.

I knew after speaking with Duncan that I didn't have to buy the circlip plyers and that the shaft really should just drop down then it's a few simple clockwise turns to secure it down. I tried and tried some more with no luck. I then took the fork off the bike and there she went. It must have somehow been the tension on the remote lock-out line.

Anyways, all fixed. How frustrating but at the same time, relieving!!! Thanks to all who took the time to try and help out. I appreciate it!
Click to expand...
The lock out line! Now why didnt we think of that!?!

Good to hear mate! Mind giving us a review of the forks anyways once you have 'em sorted? Id be interested to hear how they stack up..Put them through their paces on some techy trails or something...
 
fairy1

fairy1

Banned
Duncan is a champ, he was great help with mine. He now sell X-Fusion forks which from what I've heard are a much better fork and still fairly light. No travel adjust yet though.
 
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