Headset is either too loose or locked......., WTF??!!

Upper and Lower crowns

Are the Crowns , from the same fork, as there may be geometry differences from year to year, displacing the bearings differently
 
teK-- said:
Assuming you've checked above suggestions, you mentioned the previous fork was fine so.... is the steered bent? hence binding as you turn it unless you have cap loose enough which allows the bearing to displace slightly as you turn.
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Not unless Aust Post munted it. It came straight off the bike into a box and was working smoothly before it came off.

What headset J-man? I was using it with a pig, which lists a loose ball jobbie. Don't know if that'd make a difference. Are you using the dust cap on the headset below the top crown? If not the crown is probably binding on the face of the top cup.
 
Steerer is straight, no doubt about that.

My money is on putting a small spacer between the top crown and the headset, which I will try as soon as the pseudo-ephedrine kicks in. Dust cap and everything is in place, can't recall the name of the headset but it's unique as it changes the angle of the dangle when you spin it 180 degrees. Super-confident it just needs that spacer.
 
Pseudo-e and bike mechanics don't really mix...

Given the adjustable angles, is the headset lined up correctly for whichever angle?
 
johnny said:
Steerer is straight, no doubt about that.

My money is on putting a small spacer between the top crown and the headset, which I will try as soon as the pseudo-ephedrine kicks in. Dust cap and everything is in place, can't recall the name of the headset but it's unique as it changes the angle of the dangle when you spin it 180 degrees. Super-confident it just needs that spacer.
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As staunch and poodle suggested this is likely to be the issue. I had the same on my roadie, I just could not get the headset locked and smooth. It ended up just needing a carbon spacer to clamp down evenly on the bearings.
 
If you have been able to turn the bars while the headset is tight, there will be some tell tale rubs marks in there somewhere.
 
So I've worked out the what but can't understand the why.

The lower bearings weren't seating properly, I found this out when I took it out to inspect it and the balls started falling out. Placing the bearing over the lower race looks to me that they aren't seating well and that the bearing is actually too small for the race. But this doesn't make sense as its the race that came from the stock fork and everything was working fine when that was fitted.

So now the bearings are fucked and I have to get new ones but I think it's time I take the bike, both races and the problem in general to the LBS and ask them WTF.

The one thing that surprises me (might just be because it's the first time I've fitted my own forks, mates have done it for beer previously given I didn't have my own workshop) is that on this headset at least, the only think that is holding the steerer in place is the interface between the bottom bearings and race and the top cap of the headset and the top bearings. I understand that the interface has to be the bearings only as otherwise friction would result. However it's a very small interface with what seems a pretty flimsy securing device at the top.

Anyway, of to the LBS this weekend.
 
moorey said:
Get a cartridge bearing one. Is it standard 1 1/8 external cup, or 44mm?
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That is what I'd be doing. A well stocked lbs should have a replacement bearing to fit if you want to wing it.

It sounds like the bearings have perhaps deformed in the process or been pit in upside down when you put the forks back together. Those rings of balls devices can be temperamental and easily busted.

Is the lower race sitting square on your forks?

I've got an assortment of headset cups for 49mm head tubes in 1.5 and 1 1/8 of that's any help?
 
pink poodle said:
That is what I'd be doing. A well stocked lbs should have a replacement bearing to fit if you want to wing it.

It sounds like the bearings have perhaps deformed in the process or been pit in upside down when you put the forks back together. Those rings of balls devices can be temperamental and easily busted.

Is the lower race sitting square on your forks?

I've got an assortment of headset cups for 49mm head tubes in 1.5 and 1 1/8 of that's any help?
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You won't get a cartridge bearing in non cartridge cups.
 
moorey said:
You won't get a cartridge bearing in non cartridge cups.
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I meant I have the whole headset...cups, bearings, the cone washer thing, the parts I don't know the name of, the top cap, the star, the little bolt and so on.

Or the little ring of bearing like he has crushed. One my locals has a box full of them in different sizes.
 
pink poodle said:
I meant I have the whole headset...cups, bearings, the cone washer thing, the parts I don't know the name of, the top cap, the star, the little bolt and so on.

Or the little ring of bearing like he has crushed. One my locals has a box full of them in different sizes.
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Sure you did.
pink poodle said:
That is what I'd be doing. A well stocked lbs should have a replacement bearing to fit if you want to wing it.
Click to expand...
 
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