Help finding a commuter

james1

james1

Likes Dirt
New to road riding/commuting and have just been riding my mountain bike (giant anthem 29) at the moment. The ride to work is a 30km return trip so nothing to long.
I am looking at getting a cheap flat bat road bike as I prefer the upright sitting position of a mountain bike over a road bike.
I've never really felt comfortable riding a road bike but then again I've only ridden up the road and back.
I also stumbled upon cyclecross bikes which seemed to be half way with a more upright position (?) and a bit more durable.
But my question is what would be best, a flat bar road bike, a cx bike or a normal road bike and for me to just get use to it?
Also is there that much of a difference between these bikes and my anthem with slicks on? (May be a silly question)

Any help is appreciated
Cheers
 
John U

John U

MTB Precision
What kind of surfaces/terrain does your commute include?

If its smooth bike path all the way then a fully rigid bike will be more efficient and probably more enjoyable than a dually. I commute along a bike path. It has bits of single track along the sides of it in many places. Gives me the option of taking my dually some days, or my fully rigid 26" bike when I want to take it a bit easier or it's raining.

I own a roadie and never ride it. Don't think I'd be comfortable on it amongst commuting traffic.

Horses for courses though.
 
thatsnotme

thatsnotme

Likes Dirt
I have a similar length commute to what you do. I've got a flat bar roady that I use for commuting, that cost me ~$800 a few years back. It does the job pretty well.

One nice thing for commuting is that I've got panniers and bags for my commute. I find it much more comfortable to not have to have a backpack on.

When it comes to slicks on your Anthem, unless you've got a spare set of wheels ready to go with your MTB tyres attached, it just doesn't seem all that practical. It's also likely to be heavier, and even with forks and shock locked out, a decent commuter bike is going to be stiffer and more efficient. Same with a CX bike - why compromise? A CX bike's designed with a specific purpose in mind, that that's not commuting.

There are plenty of flat bar roady's out there that don't cost the earth, and will get the job done. That's where I'd be looking.
 
james1

james1

Likes Dirt
It's pretty much a quite back road for 5km and then 10km on a highway (not overly busy on the south coast). So all on road riding no path ways but I do some path riding on weekends a bit also.
Do you have any suggestions when buying a commuter? Any does or don'ts?
Thanks again for the help
 
ianganderton

ianganderton

Likes Dirt
I prefer the reliability in all conditions and control of disc brakes for urban riding. I also prefer the control of a flat bar but drop bars are more comfortable for long distances

I brought a focus urban planet 2.0 for $500 off gumtree. It's a hybrid so basically a robust rigid road bike with mountain bike geometry

Don't get any thing flash as they tend to get stolen

I've also removed all the QR squewers and replaced them with Allen key bolts to make the bike easy to lock up

My wife has a cell ultimo 1.0 which is doing the job well. $300
 
S

SlowManiac

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I've got a flat bar for commuting, my commute is 20km each way on busy Sydney roads. I've got a Merida Speeder I think.

I like flat bars, the upright position is good and I feel a bit safer. They are not as quick as road bikes , though if you buy a decent one the difference is not huge.

Just have a look on Bike Exchange, they have a category Flat bar Road bikes I think.
 
silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
I found a Giant Cypress 700C hybrid bike frame at the LBS and lobbed various spare parts that I already on it to make a very effective commuter/gravel grinder...still got it hanging in the roof.

These days...I'd hunt a cheap hardtail 29er frame and a rigid fork (got one) and some wheels (got some) and some driveline & cockpit parts (got them) and...hang on...:twitch:
 
rangersac

rangersac

Medically diagnosed OMS
Two big considerations when you are commuting are how you intend to carry your gear, and how large are you with kit on board. If your intent is to have a rack an panniers that limits considerations into bikes that have decent mounting systems, and chainstays that are long enough to avoid heel strike. In terms of heft if you are a clydesdale then I'd steer clear of ordinary AL flat bar roadies as I destroyed several frames in quick succession on my commute (which admittedly is considerably longer than yours). For longevity I'd look at a steel frame, you'll pay more up front but it will last a long time.
 
james1

james1

Likes Dirt
Any reason why you say a 29er set up over a flat bar? And would that would out cheaper then buying a flat bar?

What actually was destroyed on the bikes? Cracks? Bent? And is a carbon one better or even worse the AL?
Thanks for your help
 
silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
james1 said:
Any reason why you say a 29er set up over a flat bar? And would that would out cheaper then buying a flat bar?
Click to expand...
Burlier frame in the same wheel size as flat bar roadie; most basic 29er hardtails come with a plethora of rack mounts, disc brakes and real world gearing; would it be cheaper?...[hmmm]

http://www.99bikes.com.au/apollo-trace-20-3549 $611

http://www.99bikes.com.au/merida-big-nine-40-2015 $594

...so probably not. But not much different either. BUt then I wouldn't buy either...like I said...in my circumstances I'd hunt a frame
 
rangersac

rangersac

Medically diagnosed OMS
james1 said:
What actually was destroyed on the bikes? Cracks? Bent? And is a carbon one better or even worse the AL?
Thanks for your help
Click to expand...
Cracked three frames in less than a year (downtube x 2, seat tube/ downtube junction). Fortunately they were warrantied but in the end I got pissed with the replacement delays, plus parts changeover and sold the last one off. Can't comment on carbon as I've never used one for load lugging, but I don't think there'll be too many cheap options out there for you if you go down that route.
 
John U

John U

MTB Precision
My rigid 26" commuter is a steel frame. It's really nice to ride. A good steel frame would be great if you could get it.

In my years of commuting I have tried a variety of tyres from 1.0 slicks up to 2.0 slicks. If you can get something that takes a 2.0 tyre (might not need to go so big with with a 29r/700c wheel) that can be pumped up to around 70psi the tyres will offer a bit more comfort, possibly better puncture resistance, without cost too much speed/effort.

If you go down the hybrid path you definitely will want a rigid fork. This might mean swapping out a shitty suspension.

Disc brakes save a lot of hassle, even on a commuter.

Second set of wheels is a bit of hassle. Changing them out may also involve swapping the cassette out every time you do it. A second/spare set of wheels also has a habit of turning into another bike also. It just takes longer and is usually more expensive than just going out and buying one in the first place.

Couple of options
http://melbournebicyclecentre.com/bikes/flat-bar-commuter/product/948-trek-district

The mud guards on this are a good option
http://melbournebicyclecentre.com/bikes/flat-bar-commuter/product/1022-merida-s-presso-900d

http://melbournebicyclecentre.com/bikes/flat-bar-commuter/product/852-trek-7-4-fx-disc

I have no association with this shop. Just a good spot for initiating a wider search.
 
ianganderton

ianganderton

Likes Dirt
The difference depends on who is describing it I guess

But looking at those 2 bikes the first is quite mountain bike like in its look with the second looking a lot more road bike.

I'd suggest that the first bike would be more robust. Better for bumping up curbs and dealing with rougher surfaces. The second bike looks lighter (ofter equals faster) but more delicate.

I'm not convinced on IGH. Mine feels a bit vague compared with my deralieur geared bikes. It also shifts the wrong way which is annoying. Lastly it feels heavy

But it does feel very low maintainence. But seeing as I'm always tweeking the gears on my other bikes that's not an issue for me
 
james1

james1

Likes Dirt
The bike would mainly be for highway use and back streets in a regional area, no high traffic areas or traffic lights.
I'm just confused now as since I've looked into getting one I'm amazed at how many different options are available
Again cheer for the help
 
ianganderton

ianganderton

Likes Dirt
For my city bike I went for something almost exactly the same as the first one and it's great. Looks pretty subtle so doesn't attract attention when locked up 'in the wild'. The MTB geometry is comfortable, control is excellent weaving through traffic. Wheels feel strong over the lumps and potholes of Sydney back roads and curbs around cycle paths. Disc brakes are powerful in traffic.

Both would be good bikes, you just need to choose one.
 
S

SlowManiac

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I had an IGH + belt drive bike for commuting. It was good, low maintenance but quite heavy. I did over 20 000km on it with just the odd oil change. Problem was though that it eventually did need some proper maintenance and it's really expensive to fix or replace an IGH. So I just bought a regular bike. Was pretty happy though 20 000km is a decent lifespan.

Oh and changing a tube on the IGH bike could be a pain.

Either of those bikes you link will do the job just fine, don't stress too much!
 
ianganderton

ianganderton

Likes Dirt
After another quick look at them I would recommend the first purely because I'm a big fan of haudralic disc brakes. Powerful, very ease to control (modulation is the key here) and zero maintainence. The IGH and belt drive all add to this over all build

The other bike will probably be a bit lighter and faster but will need more adjustment and maintainence (gear adjustment, chain oiling, brake adjustment). If you need someone to adjust gears etc for you this can be faffy
 
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