I need some advise on batteries I have made up a set of lights 1 x 20w with a digital controller giving me 30%, 60% and 100% power settings and a accessory 35w light, primary for DH use. I am using Phillips master line ES series globes in a polycarbonate housing. The problem I have is battery power. The SLA brick is the cheapest option but is heavy and dangerous when in a backpack. There are many types of Ni-Mh batteries in packs and individual ones available at Jaycar the D size 9000mAh with solder tabs is $24.00ea and the D size in a 8000mAh is $15.00ea but will be hard to house and charge, any suggestions? What are we all using?
Home Made Mountain Bike Lights / Batteries
- Thread starter jamie
- Start date
House them in a waterbottle, with a shiteload of sealant around them. Then chuck it in a bottle cage if you have to.
$24 for a single battery cell is a bit :shock: but it'd make for an awesome lightweight battery pack.
For the price, radio controlled cars sub-c battery cells are probably the best, and if you're putting them in a bag then get one of those sealable plastic housings, jam the batteries in with a bit of foam, seal the edges and screw it down. I'm sure Jaycar have weatherproof plug/socket combo's that you could use for the light/charge wiring, that way the lot can be fully sealed.
$24 for a single battery cell is a bit :shock: but it'd make for an awesome lightweight battery pack.
For the price, radio controlled cars sub-c battery cells are probably the best, and if you're putting them in a bag then get one of those sealable plastic housings, jam the batteries in with a bit of foam, seal the edges and screw it down. I'm sure Jaycar have weatherproof plug/socket combo's that you could use for the light/charge wiring, that way the lot can be fully sealed.
radio control hobby shops will be able to advise you and sel lyou charging jacks and a suitable hi-end 'smart charger'
I worked in the R/C hobby shop business for a number of years and you MUST make sure you look after Ni-Mh batteries. A smart charger, although costly, will greatly extend the life of your cells and they will deliver better performance.
No matter how 'weather proof' your connections or charging jacks are make sure you seal them further in a plastic bag, condom, watertight container etc.
Also, large cells have a larger contact area with eachother so they get less hot durring opperation nand deliver the power much more efficiently. If you end up getting Ni-Mh, Ni-Cad, Li-ion etc. contact me and I can direct you to many sites and give advise on charging and care.
I worked in the R/C hobby shop business for a number of years and you MUST make sure you look after Ni-Mh batteries. A smart charger, although costly, will greatly extend the life of your cells and they will deliver better performance.
No matter how 'weather proof' your connections or charging jacks are make sure you seal them further in a plastic bag, condom, watertight container etc.
Also, large cells have a larger contact area with eachother so they get less hot durring opperation nand deliver the power much more efficiently. If you end up getting Ni-Mh, Ni-Cad, Li-ion etc. contact me and I can direct you to many sites and give advise on charging and care.
Thanks guys
I checked out the remote control batteries approx $120.00 for a 3.3Ah (2 required), so I am stilled interested in the D size option from JarCar their D size 8000mAh battery (no solder tabs) is $15.00 ea (10 required), sounds like the cheapest option for a decent battery.
I just need to work on the housing (i.e. the versa light set up and the charging, Simo any info on this would be much appreciated
Thanks
I checked out the remote control batteries approx $120.00 for a 3.3Ah (2 required), so I am stilled interested in the D size option from JarCar their D size 8000mAh battery (no solder tabs) is $15.00 ea (10 required), sounds like the cheapest option for a decent battery.
I just need to work on the housing (i.e. the versa light set up and the charging, Simo any info on this would be much appreciated
Thanks
J3T-PuLsAr
Likes Dirt
how big a container would u require to contain the batteries in? just a suggestion but what bout pc tubing with and end cap glue on and the otehr end with a screw lid (if removing batteries is requiered, if not seal both ends) and just drill a hole in one end cap for the wires. (very cheap option too, just thoguth of it cos my dads a plumber...
J3T-PuLsAr
Likes Dirt
oh, and then cable tie it to your frame.
neko
Likes Dirt
A friend of mine uses the big brick style battery (it looks similar to a mororbike battery actually) whether it's a SLA or not I couldn't say. Regardless, he just puts it into a bottlecage with a cable tie. Works realy well.
That's for a handle bar mounted flood. A helmet mounted one would still work ok as long as you had a secure fixture for the battery in your pack. Maybee a big velcro square on the side of the battery with another square of velcro on the base of your pack.
This is assuming you're talking about the battery I'm thinking of. The brick I've seen is about 22x12x18cm.
That's for a handle bar mounted flood. A helmet mounted one would still work ok as long as you had a secure fixture for the battery in your pack. Maybee a big velcro square on the side of the battery with another square of velcro on the base of your pack.
This is assuming you're talking about the battery I'm thinking of. The brick I've seen is about 22x12x18cm.
J3T-PuLsAr
Likes Dirt
if ur in melb and u need help with the pc tubing i can give u a hand if u need to. my dads got all the necesary shit for it...
ill try my best in my curtnt state to help
i nwould not ercomnd a brick id ur bag, if u fal things can get ugly. if i have to, u han rap it in foam etc. to soften th impact but 2 much will risk pverheating and related probs.
go to ur local (or closest) hobby shop and task about connectors and stogage opions,
il post omorrw wen im sobre.
i nwould not ercomnd a brick id ur bag, if u fal things can get ugly. if i have to, u han rap it in foam etc. to soften th impact but 2 much will risk pverheating and related probs.
go to ur local (or closest) hobby shop and task about connectors and stogage opions,
il post omorrw wen im sobre.
Dane
Likes Dirt
i'll translate it for you:Simo said:
i'll try my best in my current state to help.
i would not recomend a brick in your bag, if you fall things can get ugly. if you have to, you can wrap it in foam etc. to soften the impact but too much will risk overheating and related problems.
go to your local (or closest) hobby shop and ask about connectors and storage options,
il post tomorrow when im sober.
hope it hurts simo!
DEVLIN
Likes Dirt
I HAVE BUILT TWO PACKS USING BOTH THE JAYCAR D AND C CELL SIZE. I AM ONLY USING A 6 VOLT SYSTEM WHICH ONLY REQUIRES 6 BATTERIES (I KNOW THAT ADDS UP TO 7.2 VOLTS). I HAVE USED THE PVC PIPE METHOD WHICH WORKS WELL. THOUGH IS FIDDLY TO MAKE NEAT. THE C CELL HAS TWO LAYERS OF TUBING WHICH ALLOWS NO MOVEMENT AT ALL IN THE PACK AND TO RUN THE NEAGTIVE WIRE INSIDE THE PACK. THE D CELL I COULD ONLY GET A SHORT SECTION OF THE RIGHT SIZE PVC TUBING AND HAS THE NEGATIVE WIRE ON THE OUTSIDE. I WILL POST SOME PICTURES TOMORROW WITH SOME SHOWING THE INTERNAL CONSTRUCTION.
Well this is digging up an old thread.
I currently have a Vistalite Code 25 set up, and would like to get more battery power before the Mont.
I am looking at building up my own batteries, and buying most of the parts from Jaycar. The set up I am currently looking at is:
5*C Cell (1.2V) batteries.
2*Double C cell battery holders
1*Single C cell battery holder
1*plug for Vistalita cable
I am then planning to sit the double battery holders back to back, so the 4 batteries would be aligned vertically, in 2 rows. Then across the bottom I plan to mount the single battery holders. At the top, I would place the plug, and then wire the 5 batteries up in a series.
I am then planning to wrap the batteries up in tape to protect the wiring, and make sure they don't come loose.
Does anyone see any problems with this set up? Would I be better off with 6 batteries (7.2V)?
If it is possible Could I see pictures/descriptions of other batteries which people have set up? I would be interested in seeing DEVLIN's set up if possible.
Thanks in Advance
Sweeper
I currently have a Vistalite Code 25 set up, and would like to get more battery power before the Mont.
I am looking at building up my own batteries, and buying most of the parts from Jaycar. The set up I am currently looking at is:
5*C Cell (1.2V) batteries.
2*Double C cell battery holders
1*Single C cell battery holder
1*plug for Vistalita cable
I am then planning to sit the double battery holders back to back, so the 4 batteries would be aligned vertically, in 2 rows. Then across the bottom I plan to mount the single battery holders. At the top, I would place the plug, and then wire the 5 batteries up in a series.
I am then planning to wrap the batteries up in tape to protect the wiring, and make sure they don't come loose.
Does anyone see any problems with this set up? Would I be better off with 6 batteries (7.2V)?
If it is possible Could I see pictures/descriptions of other batteries which people have set up? I would be interested in seeing DEVLIN's set up if possible.
Thanks in Advance
Sweeper
GoingDHfast
Likes Dirt
Not that this really adds anything to this thread, but its a good opportunity to show off my new light set-up 
(Thanks JohnU!!)
2x NiMh batteries
2x NiCad batteries
2x 15w globes + housing
2x 5w globes + housing
2x helmet mounts
My goal is to be visible from the moon.
(Thanks JohnU!!)2x NiMh batteries
2x NiCad batteries
2x 15w globes + housing
2x 5w globes + housing
2x helmet mounts
My goal is to be visible from the moon.
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FR Drew
Not a custom title.
We purchased some NiMH 4500mAH cells from www.batterystation.com in the states. They cost us about 60 bucks for a 5 cell 6v pack shrink wrapped with 50cm flying leads.
Overvolting to 7.2v (a 6 cell pack) would bring the cost to 72 bucks for 4500mAH or $150 for 9000mAH.
a 35w 6 volt bulb would draw 5.3A meaning that your 9000 mAH batt pack would last about an hour and a half.
Overvolting to 7.2v (a 6 cell pack) would bring the cost to 72 bucks for 4500mAH or $150 for 9000mAH.
a 35w 6 volt bulb would draw 5.3A meaning that your 9000 mAH batt pack would last about an hour and a half.