Impossible to true Juicy 5s

look mum. no hands

look mum. no hands

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Anyone got advice on aligning Juicy 5s. Seems after every ride I have to go through the same pull your hair out process of re-aligning. Avid make it sound too simple in their guide, which just adds to the frustration. I am getting ready to leave the good ship Avid and head, yes, I hate to say it the Shimano camp.

Hopefully someone can help here........I fear that it'll be first shimano next trek!
 
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look mum. no hands

look mum. no hands

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It is an intermittent rub that seems to occur after every ride like there is a light warp in the disc. Instead of doing the normal break aligning I have to sight true it which is painstakingly arduous. SHould I file down the pads a bit? When I remove the pad I can definately see an inconsistent rub mark on the inside pad.
 
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nickhagee

nickhagee

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avids in general are a pain in the arse.
your wheel is true right?
are you tightening the calipers tight enough so they dont move?
im sorry i know its all obvious stuff but you never know...
and shimanos would probably work 10 times better IMO
 
look mum. no hands

look mum. no hands

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yeah torque to the recommend level. I have heard from others that the pistons can get stuck and that the pad springs a re pretty weak and may need replacing.
 
sikpuppyonglory

sikpuppyonglory

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AngoXC said:
Not necessarily. He could be refering to aligning the caliper via the 'TriAllign' system.
Click to expand...

Ahhhh, yeah, that makes sense but it isn't really trueing though :eek:


look mum said:
It is an intermittent rub that seems to occur after every ride like there is a light warp in the disc. Instead of doing the normal break truing I have to sight true it which is painstakingly arduous. SHould I file down the pads a bit? When I remove the pad I can definately see an inconsistent rub mark on the inside pad.
Click to expand...

if your rotor is bent you really can't do much about it then, unless you can use a shifting spanner or a hammer & a flat smooth surface to straighten it again, otherwise buy a new rotor & start the trialign system again.:)
 
user name

user name

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I just allinged my hayes mag today. i used 3 shim wahers (0.006in) between each fork-bracket bolt to get the correct distance from either side of the two pads.
 
Viv92

Viv92

Eats Squid
How are you aligning it? Undo the bolts on the caliper, squeezing the lever, doing them up while the lever is squeezed? I did mine today when I put on my 8" and there's no rub at all.
 
look mum. no hands

look mum. no hands

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I tried using a hammer and a chisel to align them. Do you think that could be the problem?

Come on, yes, I am doing it as prescribed in the users manual. This seems to be the thing with avid. they are "hit n miss" some ppl have not a problem at all.
 
Viv92

Viv92

Eats Squid
look mum said:
I tried using a hammer and a chisel to align them. Do you think that could be the problem?

Come on, yes, I am doing it as prescribed in the users manual. This seems to be the thing with avid. they are "hit n miss" some ppl have not a problem at all.
Click to expand...
I have no idea what you are talking about.

Are you trying to get your pads to stop rubbing your rotor?


A. Your rotor is bent, you can straighten it with a shifter and a bit of spare time.

B. You caliper is centered over your rotor. Find a bit of rotor you know is straight (so you eliminate rub, if you center over a warped bit of the rotor you will still get rub) and loosen off the bolts connecting the caliper to the adapter. Hold down the brake lever firmly and do the bolts back up when the lever is squeezed. What happens is the spherical spacer looking thingys on the bolts align themselves and tighten when you do them up. It'll move the rotor a few millimeters a certain direction.

Good luck.
 
cha_cha_

cha_cha_

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the avid alignment technique as described in the manual isn't fool proof, but it does do a pretty good job. loosen the alignment bolts, rubber band or tape the lever down, jiggle the wheel a little forward and back (very softly as the caliper is loose and you have a lot of torque on un-tensioned bolts) and jiggle the calipers left and right and then bolt it down. 9/10 times that works.

now with my deores (535) and my alligator serrated rotors, that's a whole other kettle of fish - you need to very slowly visually align them, check them, align them, check them... if they're slightly misaligned then the rotor clips the leading edge of the toed pad and makes a racket... great to use once they're set though...
 
n plus one

n plus one

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Some things to consider -

Do the bolts up carefully and observe them as you do; they sometimes pull the calliper back out of alignment as you tighten them.

Sometimes a little load on the wheel in the correct direction of rotation helps as you do up the bolts.

Your brake line may be loading the caliper due to the way it is attached to the frame, pulling the calliper a little out of whack when its loose during the alignment process.

You can check your disc for warping just as you would check a wheel - as noted they can be trued (carefully and with a little pratice) with a shifter.
 
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pavey

pavey

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Mine works fine.
Are you 100% positive that all parts to the tri-align are in the right way, since they are one way washers and it won't work if there installed incorrectly
 
look mum. no hands

look mum. no hands

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Thanks the last few posts. I seem to have them aligned for the time being. What I meant earlier "Viv92" is that I can read the users manual and follow those instructions to the point, which seems not to work and I was looking for a little alternative practice!
 
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