Intense T275C Bearing Replacement

Nick53

Nick53

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Hey guys,

Happy owner of an Intense T275C Tracer. I have recently noticed that the rear suspension bearings were creaking/causing friction and on closer inspection the upper bearings were due for replacement and the lower 4 bearings are completely done. I have replaced the upper 4 bearings myself however don't understand how to punch out the lower assembly bearings (the ones with the covers and spacers over the top as pictured below). Is anyone aware of an available manual on it's disassembly or would anyone have any helpful tips on how to properly remove them? Getting quite nervous trying to punch them out when they're not budging (especially with the carbon frame). They are angular contact bearings so I'm not sure if there's a particular trick to removing them.

Also haven't been able to find a working contact for Intense or the Intense distributor in Aus so if anyone has a contact that might come in handy too.

IMG_6684.jpg

Was able to find the link for schematic diagram for the frame. Not sure if it will help make things clearer: http://intensecycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/T275C_Tech1.jpg

Thanks in advance,

Nick
 

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I didn't know Intense frames lasted long enough that you actually wear bearings out? I kid I kid.

After you remove 23 and 4 is there a hex to slot an allen key in to?
 
spoozbucket said:
I didn't know Intense frames lasted long enough that you actually wear bearings out? I kid I kid.

After you remove 23 and 4 is there a hex to slot an allen key in to?
Click to expand...

Bahahaha it's true I have a cracked Tracer 2 and the bearings are still sweet. To the OP call Monza imports mate they probably won't help you...(Santa Cruz supply bearings free of charge to the original frame owner) but they are the importer.....
 
spoozbucket said:
I didn't know Intense frames lasted long enough that you actually wear bearings out? I kid I kid.

After you remove 23 and 4 is there a hex to slot an allen key in to?
Click to expand...

Haha well I hope I have more luck with this. There's a few threads online complaining about the t275c bearings being shite so doesn't look like I'm alone. Lucky I like the bike

Nope once you remove 23 andd 4 there's just the thread that the 23 bolt screws into to compress the bearing.


mint355 said:
Bahahaha it's true I have a cracked Tracer 2 and the bearings are still sweet. To the OP call Monza imports mate they probably won't help you...(Santa Cruz supply bearings free of charge to the original frame owner) but they are the importer.....
Click to expand...

Might have to, just wanted to get it done this weekend!
 
Its like an expanding collet isn't it? So if you are smacking on the end that you see there you are actually making it tighter. The bit you see is actually a small wedge and should just pop out and expose a hex key.
 
Expander collet removal

Hey Nick,

The collet itself has another thread for this purpose. Where the m6 (5mm Allen key head) bolt came out you need to thread an m8 bolt in. It only needs to go in around 3 full turns, and doesn't need to tighten up at all. Wiggle the bolt around a bit, using it as a lever to move the collet wedge, this will release from the main pivot bolt. If it's being stubborn get a pair of pliers onto the m8 you just threaded in for a bit of leverage. Under this collet wedge you'll discover an 8mm hex head on the end of the main pivot bolt. Undo this and the main pivot bolt will thread out.

Bearings: make sure you use the correct ones. They are asymmetrical, if you do not use asymmetrical bearings the pivot will collapse under side load. Bearing life is also enhanced if you purge the pivot grease regularly with the grease nipple supplied with the bike. Use this every 3 months depending on conditions to lube. Purge until you see new grease coming out of the seals, you should get at least 12 months out of a set of bearings this way.

Feel free to pm me with any questions.

Hope this helps!

MB
 
Thanks very much for the help guys, much appreciated. Makes a lot more sense now that I know the wedge comes out separately and doesn't push through.

MB, I've sent you a PM re: purchasing the lower 4 asymmetrical bearings

Thanks again,

Nick
 
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