Is a chain checker worth it?

Haakon

Haakon

has an accommodating arse
Just use a ruler. 25.4cm across 10 links new, 25.5 time to get a new chain ordered, replace it before it hits 25.6 and if its 25.7 order a new cassette and chainring while you're at it.
 
andrew9

andrew9

Likes Dirt
Calvin27 said:
Most allow you to do internal measurements. Aside from being a lot more accurate, they can 'track' the wear a lot better. I.e. you know when it's close, not just if it's pass or fail. Most of the time when it fails it's already done the damage, particularly for a newer cassette.

I do notice with my road gear, the shifting starts to go to crap before it even fails the park tool test. As the cassette ages this might change but so far 5000km and it gets fussy well before the 0.5 wear rate.

Also the other part that a lot of people miss is that the chain can wear differently across the whole thing. Some parts might be in spec, others might be more stretched. Important to measure in a few locations to check.
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What part of the chain are you measuring internally, and what number are you looking for?

I have calipers, and am keen to use them if there is a good way. I currently use a 12 inch ruler
 
Calvin27

Calvin27

Eats Squid
andrew9 said:
What part of the chain are you measuring internally, and what number are you looking for?
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Inside between the rollers (basically wedge the pointy bit in there). I have measurements of new chains for reference, noting that the brands all seem to have different starting tolerances albeit within allowances. Don't have the numbers on hand but you can pretty much measure any new chain and do some math to calculate the elongation percentage (the number on the other chain checkers). Obviously try to measure as much length as possible to minimise errors
 
fjohn860

fjohn860

Alice in diaperland
andrew9 said:
What part of the chain are you measuring internally, and what number are you looking for?

I have calipers, and am keen to use them if there is a good way. I currently use a 12 inch ruler
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I use verniers. I also use ProBikeGarage to keep track. I just add services (when I remember to) and note the stretch.
Screenshot_20240206-222816.jpg


EDIT: Goes without saying, but pays to measure a few times and different sections of the chain. I always record the largest (consistent) measurement I get.
 
Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
I have to confess never owning a chain checker nor swapping chains around to minimise stretch.
Just try to avoid cross chaining and shift with sympathy - not midway while pushing up a hill and don't overlube the chain. I just ride them until they slip. Whatever I'm doing or not doing, it is on point :cool:
 
Flow-Rider

Flow-Rider

Burner
Mr Crudley said:
I have to confess never owning a chain checker nor swapping chains around to minimise stretch.
Just try to avoid cross chaining and shift with sympathy - not midway while pushing up a hill and don't overlube the chain. I just ride them until they slip. Whatever I'm doing or not doing, it is on point :cool:
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I think it gets a bit expensive for some with the $300+ cassettes but can't beat the old days of the $70 XT cassettes.
 
Calvin27

Calvin27

Eats Squid
Flow-Rider said:
I think it gets a bit expensive for some with the $300+ cassettes but can't beat the old days of the $70 XT cassettes.
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used to rock slx for $20 from the golden era of crc. Having said that though, these days the chain life is shambles given they are thinner and also cross chain a hell of a lot more than older 2x systems. This is part the reason why shimno was reluctant to go 1x, but the market spoke and preferred deletion of FD sacrificing chain life. One of the reasons why I am actually sort of excited about cues is that you can run a 9s cues and theoretically have better chainline than the 10 and 11s in both HG and cues spacing.
 
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