stirk
Burner
Bunnings is a shameful rip off shop, don't buy their alcohol.
http://www.altronics.com.au/p/t3038-isopropyl-alcohol-2-litres/
http://www.altronics.com.au/p/t3038-isopropyl-alcohol-2-litres/
Issues with Xt rear brake squealing SOLVED SEE POST 35!
- Thread starter discofrank
- Start date
Minlak
custom titis
Has been covered above, alignment, contamination, glazing. Just sucks after using new pads. It's salvagable if you CBF.
Duckman I see your point of view from a shop where time = money, however cleaning rotors of the shit that is on them when changing pads whether resin-sintered, but esp sintered to resin, is good practice. i.e. in order to get the pad material into the rotor, from the actual pad that will be doing the braking. No need to take a shortcut for peeps not on the clock have the time to pull a few more stops.
In other sports where wheels and disc brakes are used at speed, when changing pads the discs are are treated e.g. with blasting media, red scotchbrite or even a rotor hone, & cleaner - as accepted and recommended practice per the brake pad and rotor manufacturers. I guess mtb is different.
Duckman I see your point of view from a shop where time = money, however cleaning rotors of the shit that is on them when changing pads whether resin-sintered, but esp sintered to resin, is good practice. i.e. in order to get the pad material into the rotor, from the actual pad that will be doing the braking. No need to take a shortcut for peeps not on the clock have the time to pull a few more stops.
In other sports where wheels and disc brakes are used at speed, when changing pads the discs are are treated e.g. with blasting media, red scotchbrite or even a rotor hone, & cleaner - as accepted and recommended practice per the brake pad and rotor manufacturers. I guess mtb is different.
stirk
Burner
You're just afraid of the flames a 2 litre bottle would create!
And we don't all live in the sticks and rely on freight.
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Hopes would solve all the shimano issues. So would Avid, magura, and even Hayes...
The problem is in your lever body. There shall be a bunged seal or similar.
moorey
call me Mia
Causing squeal but not spongy feel....sounds legit. :dizzy:
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
I treat my customers' brakes the same as my own, even Avid (except with a healthy dose of contempt for no extra cost).
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
Metal pads will help, as they are more tolerant of dragging.
Word of warning: they will feel utterly dreadful at first and do need more attention to bedding in than resin, but once that's done they'll perform a lot better and quieter than resin until they get wet....
wkkie
It's Not Easy Being Green
Indeed! Every puddle I go through at the moment, the next touch of the brakes is horrible to my ears! Good to know it's normal.
stirk
Burner
You get a couple of weak squeaks and then silence again. Gets your mates riding with avids excited if only for a short period, it's enough to make them feel normal for a moment and that's what matters.
discofrank
Likes Dirt
yes i had metal pads and they are fantastic, and i know that wet squeal!
here is a vid of the rear pistons in action, seem ok to me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_gXdy_aEu4
the new pads are resins, but look like metal flakes in them...???
going for a ride wed night, since i live in the hills, ill ride down the hill and get them hot and see what happens
here is a vid of the rear pistons in action, seem ok to me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_gXdy_aEu4
the new pads are resins, but look like metal flakes in them...???
going for a ride wed night, since i live in the hills, ill ride down the hill and get them hot and see what happens
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Yep. It's the lack of compressive power. He will need to pull the lever assembly apart, just to be sure.
Cheers duckstar. Lucky girls don't ride in the wet.
Nambra
Definitely should have gone to specsavers
Yep, calipers look good mate - both moving equally. Your resin pads will have metal flakes in them too; that's normal.
So I reckon it's all boiling down to giving them a good bedding in. You'll get heaps of different methods from Dr. Google and your fellow riders here too, but the general idea is to start with clean pads and rotors (ie. grease/oil free) and get enough heat into them to transfer pad material onto the rotor, without getting too them too hot that you end up glazing your pads. Sustained braking (too hot) or feathering your brakes (no material transfer) doesn't help.
discofrank
Likes Dirt
SOLVED
so gave them a re bleed tonight
and then cleaned the rotor with a rag and crc brand ( the red and white can ) of brake and parts cleaner
took off down a hill
3 hard brake applications later NO SQUEALING!!!!!!
thanks for all the help/tips
i can now 1 finger brake on the rear, going to take a lot to get used to
locks up way to easy and the lever is super firm!!!
need to bleed the front now as it feels like shit compared to the rear!
so gave them a re bleed tonight
and then cleaned the rotor with a rag and crc brand ( the red and white can ) of brake and parts cleaner
took off down a hill
3 hard brake applications later NO SQUEALING!!!!!!
thanks for all the help/tips
i can now 1 finger brake on the rear, going to take a lot to get used to
locks up way to easy and the lever is super firm!!!
need to bleed the front now as it feels like shit compared to the rear!