KS Lev Restore

Wicksie

Likes Dirt
Hey guys,
My next adventure in learning MTB stuff is to get this dropper post working.

It's a Ks Lev Externally routed dropper and it needs a cable, remote and "the catch for the cable" according to the dude selling.
I can probably work out the cable and remote, but I know nada about droppers or what the cable catch thing is.

Could someone point me in the direction of the (budget) parts needed to sort this? Do they have to be KS Lev specific?

Cheers all.
 

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Knuckles

Lives under a bridge
http://pushie.com.au/

The man behind Pushie is on here as nerfherder, you'll most likely need to get the part off him so use the contact on the website
This. Al is bonza
They speaks the realness.

Might pay to send it in to Al for the once over. If it needs any extra work, or even a service, he'll let you know and give you the option of him sorting it, or not. He's all over what a bunch of tight arses we are.
Being second hand, and already with known issues, it could all turn to shit real fast.

Otherwise, grab the parts of Al and check the technical video on the KS site.

Make sure you buy a metric fuck-ton of Slickolium in your order.

#knuckleswasadrunkenchunt
 

Nerf Herder

Wheel size expert
Thats a pre 2013 LEV which is a little different to this LEV DX ... but it shares the same remote parts
http://pushie.com.au/assets/files/Pushie Enterprises - KS LEV DX - Exploded View.pdf

Have a look and ID which parts you need. I reckon you are describing 'the claw' P5712, you'll need a grub screw P1421, likely the spring P5517, maybe a finned ferrule P3508. The claw is the most expensive bit ... but for all that you are looking around the $25 to $30 mark. Let me know where you are and I'll let you know the best store to go to.

When buying second hand I'd look at the following
i) is the cartridge bobbing
- if yes then it needs a new Cart $160rrp
ii) unscrew the cap at the bottom of the post ... is the pulley system filthy ?? if yes then you know the post hasn't been taken care of or at minimum the rider rides in the mud ... alot which likely means DU needs replaced and maybe the Seal wiper ... $8 each
- worse case the roller bearings are rusted and starting to score the stanchion* (see point iii) ... sorry can't remember how much a new bearing is likely in above $10.
iii) unwind the seal collar and lift it up towards the saddle to expose the DU bushing ... look for scoring marks on the stanchion
- worse case you don't need to do this as you can see scoring marks at the top of the posts travel anyway ... what this means is the rider likes to either ride in the wet or wash his bike and leaves the post lowered for long periods of time allowing moisture to remain in the post and corrode the fuck out of everything ... see roller bearing above.
- rider also doesn't slicko
iv) with the post built up again and extended ... grab the mast with one hand (the black tube) and the stanchion (the gold tube) with the other. test for play by rotating the mast and stanchion is opposite directions. a well used post will knock and move several mms ... thats not necessarily bad and we have a fix for that by replacing x1 P26HL with the new PTFE / Copper rod segments. one segment is about $3 to $5. definitely below $5. pic below ... 3 is overkill IMO ... 1 makes a big difference for sloppy posts.
- basically the PTFE / Teflon segment narrows the tolerances between the 3 main parts (cartridge slots, Guide rod, Guide rod channels). they use teflon coz its slippery and combats stiction ... the copper rod is for strength
Lower Guide Bushing Setting.jpg
v) last thing to check ... without the saddle mounted ... do the saddle clamp plates touch around the edges, where the saddle rails would normally sit ? this should be flush. If there is a gap or if the edges flare up then the puppy is bent ... likely the top plate

Soz for the novel ... alternative to all that send it to Pushie and we'll service it for $45 + parts + return postage.
 
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99_FGT

Likes Bikes and Dirt
leaves the post lowered for long periods of time allowing moisture to remain in the post and corrode the fuck out of everything ... see roller bearing above.
- rider also doesn't slicko
iv) with the post built up again and extended ... grab the mast with one hand (the black tube) and the stanchion (the gold tube) with the other. test for play by rotating the mast and stanchion is opposite directions. a well used post will knock and move several mms ... thats not necessarily bad and we have a fix for that by replacing x1 P26HL with the new PTFE / Copper rod segments. one segment is about $3 to $5. definitely below $5. pic below ... 3 is overkill IMO ... 1 makes a big difference for sloppy posts.
- basically the PTFE / Teflon segment narrows the tolerances between the 3 main parts (cartridge slots, Guide rod, Guide rod channels). they use teflon coz its slippery and combats stiction ... the copper rod is for strength
That is excellent Al.
I'll be in touch re the bushing as well, my lev 272 has a bit of play too...
On the subject of leaving the post lowered for long periods of time, is there an issue with this? My bikes are stored vertically, and usually with the droppers down. Is this a bad thing? If I wash them I leave them out to dry, takes about 10 min in QLD.
Al..
 

Wicksie

Likes Dirt
Wow, that is legendary information, what a boss. Thanks so much!

And thanks all. Digging this forum.

Didn't pay much and the dude said his LBS reckons it just needs the cable grab thing along with the remote and cable.

I'll do all those tests when it arrives. Fingers crossed.

Nerf Herder, I'm in the inner north of Melbourne.

Awesome, cheers guys.
 

99_FGT

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Wow, that is legendary information, what a boss. Thanks so much!

And thanks all. Digging this forum.

Didn't pay much and the dude said his LBS reckons it just needs the cable grab thing along with the remote and cable.

I'll do all those tests when it arrives. Fingers crossed.

Nerf Herder, I'm in the inner north of Melbourne.

Awesome, cheers guys.
Cable is a shifter cable, and you can (if you are running a 1x drivetrain) ghetto mod a shifter to control them rather than the shi++y lever design. KS have recongnised this, and have released the SouthPaw for exactly that - again only if you run 1x. If you run 2x, myself and others have the lever of said design in our parts bin.
Al..
But not that Al
 

Wicksie

Likes Dirt
Ha, love a ghetto mod. Awesome. Good info about the shifter cable, thank you.

I'm running a 3x until I get a job where I'm looking at 2x.
 

racebmx

Likes Dirt
I just purchased a lev integra with southpaw update so I will sell you a brand new "remote" cheap if you like?
 

discofrank

Likes Dirt
if it helps i have a 2 x setup on my trance with a ks dropper
I turned the lever for the dropper upside down and placed it between the shifter and grip
works awesome, guy at lbs said he never seen it done like that and will remember in the future,

i found it easier pushing the lever over the bar, than under it
 

Wicksie

Likes Dirt
Nice.
I have a hugely bodged affair on my town bike with moustache bars and mtb levers. I'm sure I can manage on this. Thanks for the tip.
 

swaz

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I have the KS Lev remote lever that goes with ODI grips. I modded an XT shifter as a replacement so don't need it anymore. Feel free to PM me if you're interested in it. It's carbon!
 
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