Monarch plus service/rebuild

Miguel75

Likes Dirt
I’ve recently ventured out and bought myself my first full suspension frame, Banshee Rune, and was given a “damaged” Monarch Plus with the frame (for free). I took it as I want to learn how to service them myself and figured it’s already broken so I can learn in safety.

The shock had lost air and my mate was told by his LBS the shock was munted: that there were scratches on the internal stanchion and couldn’t be fixed, so he bought a new shock from them.

I’ve pulled it apart and the piston and stanchion look perfect. I’m trying to decided if it’s worth me doing a full service and buying all the necessary fluids/service kit/monarch valve adaptor... I’ve included a pic of the internals: there are no scratches or marks on the stanchion/seal head/air can internal or piston. Should I be looking for damage elsewhere?

The other question I have for the brains trust;
I’m 103kg (nude), not particularly fast or furious on the bike but I like trails like Elevation, Travs Diamond etc. and the tune on this shock is L/L... I’ve never owned/fiddled with a FS rig so it’s all new to me.

Will a L/L tune be ok or should I look to make some changes and get something that’ll support my bacon habit?

Thanks in advance.
 

Attachments

dirtdad

Wants to be special but is too shy
The photo doesn't let me zoom in close to the damper rod. But it doesn't look scratched from that photo?

If it was mine, I'd put the bare damper (carefully) in a frame or even just compress slowly by hand to check there's no obvious issue with compression or rebound damping. Or call the shop and see if you can speak to the mech who diagnosed it to ask where the damage was.

If that didn't show any issues, throw an air can seal kit in and see how you go? Why bother pulling the damper apart until you've tried it?

Unless the LBS does their own suspension work I'd be skeptical. Last experience I had was an LBS telling me my rebound was blown on a McLeod shock. When I pulled it out to check, it was wound full open, but worked fine when I wound it back in. Still rides fine too.

Edit: On closer inspection of the photo..... I still can't see the damper rod. But Race 5 - SoAmI on the nose. (It's a sure thing. Bowman is a legend.)
 
Last edited:

Miguel75

Likes Dirt
The photo doesn't let me zoom in close to the damper rod. But it doesn't look scratched from that photo?

If it was mine, I'd put the bare damper (carefully) in a frame or even just compress slowly by hand to check there's no obvious issue with compression or rebound damping. Or call the shop and see if you can speak to the mech who diagnosed it to ask where the damage was.

If that didn't show any issues, throw an air can seal kit in and see how you go? Why bother pulling the damper apart until you've tried it?

Unless the LBS does their own suspension work I'd be skeptical. Last experience I had was an LBS telling me my rebound was blown on a McLeod shock. When I pulled it out to check, it was wound full open, but worked fine when I wound it back in. Still rides fine too.

Edit: On closer inspection of the photo..... I still can't see the damper rod. But Race 5 - SoAmI on the nose. (It's a sure thing. Bowman is a legend.)
Thanks mate. I can’t see any damage to the damper rod or stanchion. I’ll give the air can seal kit a go and see how it goes...
 

dirtdad

Wants to be special but is too shy
Thanks mate. I can’t see any damage to the damper rod or stanchion. I’ll give the air can seal kit a go and see how it goes...
No worries. Did you try riding on it at all? Or have you not built up the frame yet so can't?

One other idea that I should have mentioned - before doing a seal kit, pump it up to riding pressure and dunk it underwater to see where it might be losing air from. You might find something silly like a valve core leak, and this won't be in your seal kit even if you do get it.
 

Miguel75

Likes Dirt
Thanks @dirtdad. You’ve given me some great info. Pulling the Schrader valve out today felt quite “notchy” and I’m wondering if there’s an issue with the threads. There wasn’t any swarf in the threads but it might be an issue with the existing valve core.... I’ll pop it back together tonight and do the dunk test tomorrow.
 

gippyz

Likes Dirt
The photo doesn't let me zoom in close to the damper rod. But it doesn't look scratched from that photo?

If it was mine, I'd put the bare damper (carefully) in a frame or even just compress slowly by hand to check there's no obvious issue with compression or rebound damping. Or call the shop and see if you can speak to the mech who diagnosed it to ask where the damage was.

If that didn't show any issues, throw an air can seal kit in and see how you go? Why bother pulling the damper apart until you've tried it?

Unless the LBS does their own suspension work I'd be skeptical. Last experience I had was an LBS telling me my rebound was blown on a McLeod shock. When I pulled it out to check, it was wound full open, but worked fine when I wound it back in. Still rides fine too.

Edit: On closer inspection of the photo..... I still can't see the damper rod. But Race 5 - SoAmI on the nose. (It's a sure thing. Bowman is a legend.)
I'm looking to get the basic 50 hour kit from pushys (free shipping), and am confused as to which one to buy:
  1. https://www.pushys.com.au/rockshox-monarch-debonair-2015-basic-service-kit.html
  2. https://www.pushys.com.au/rockshox-monarch-shock-50-hour-service-kit.html

My first thought is the 2nd, but then the pushys description is so crap that I can't tell the difference between the 2 except for $1 price difference and the fact that the option 1's URL says 2015 basic service kit.
 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
the damper body might be damaged on the inside, not the damper rod. Get the aircan back on, confirm no leaks as per dirtdads suggestions, then back on the bike. It will not work properly and make noises if the piston head is contacting the inside of the damper body
 

Miguel75

Likes Dirt
the damper body might be damaged on the inside, not the damper rod. Get the aircan back on, confirm no leaks as per dirtdads suggestions, then back on the bike. It will not work properly and make noises if the piston head is contacting the inside of the damper body
So I’ve put on a new air valve assembly, pumped it up and confirmed no leaks.

When I pump it up to 150psi I struggle to cycle the unit (clamped in a vice, though if I drop the pressure to around 80psi I can cycle it through its travel. When it’s compressing it does make a squelching sound.

There are no signs of fluid leak. I don’t know enough about shocks to know if I should throw another $150 at it, for full service kit and fluids: $200 for a Cyclinic inspection/service or just save up a get myself a 2nd had X2 for $550???

I’m happy to pull it apart and service it myself though know little about shocks. Is there anything I should be looking for when it’s pulled apart?
 

blacksp20

Likes Bikes and Dirt
So I’ve put on a new air valve assembly, pumped it up and confirmed no leaks.

When I pump it up to 150psi I struggle to cycle the unit (clamped in a vice, though if I drop the pressure to around 80psi I can cycle it through its travel. When it’s compressing it does make a squelching sound.

There are no signs of fluid leak. I don’t know enough about shocks to know if I should throw another $150 at it, for full service kit and fluids: $200 for a Cyclinic inspection/service or just save up a get myself a 2nd had X2 for $550???

I’m happy to pull it apart and service it myself though know little about shocks. Is there anything I should be looking for when it’s pulled apart?
You need to put it in a frame and cycle it. You won’t have the leverage to move it in a vice.
Chuck it on the bike and give it a test. Report back with any odd noises or feeling.
Squelching generally means it will need an oil change as it may have some air contamination in the damping oil. It’s still useable like that generally but will eventually need a full service.
If it were me, I’d test it in the frame. If it doesn’t make any nasty sounds other than squelching, I’d pay to have it serviced at NSD, Cyclinic or another reputable suspension service shop and see how that goes.
If you are determined to get another shock, I have a near new Monarch+ from my Banshee Prime that I could part ways with. I only used it for a handful of rides before I snagged a cheap DVO Topaz.
 
Last edited:

Miguel75

Likes Dirt
You need to put it in a frame and cycle it. You won’t have the leverage to move it in a vice.
Chuck it on the bike and give it a test. Report back with any odd noises or feeling.
Squelching generally means it will need an oil change as it may have some air contamination in the damping oil. It’s still useable like that generally but will eventually need a full service.
If it were me, I’d test it in the frame. If it doesn’t make any nasty sounds other than squelching, I’d pay to have it serviced at NSD, Cyclinic or another reputable suspension service shop and see how that goes.
If you are determined to get another shock, I have a near new Monarch+ from my Banshee Prime that I could part ways with. I only used it for a handful of rides before I snagged a cheap DVO Topaz.
Thanks for the offer, I’ll let you know as I progress through the build.

The bike is a bare frame right now, with some stripped bb threads I need to have fixed so it may take a while to get this sorted...
 

bobob

Has $20
If it is squelching, it could be air/nitrogen in the dampening oil. If the walls of the IFP reservoir are scratched a little, the IFP charge (@~300psi) leaks through into the oil. Pull it apart and check the internal walls of the IFP reservoir (I attached a photo of my old scratched IFP reservoir). See pg. 25 onwards of the manual that is linked above by link1896. If the reservoir is scratched, you can get good at bleeding and rebuilding, see how long it lasts between bleeds. Best to replace the reservoir and IFP if you can find one. Vorsprung made an acetal IFP replacement.

379270
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Top