monarch rt3 ifp depth

fedor346

Likes Dirt
Hi guys,

This almost belongs in the f'wits thread but it's not a complete screw up I think.
Long story short I serviced my Monarch rt3 last night. I set ifp depth with a measuring tape - however I measured off the shoulder of the ifp rather than the lowest point. Measuring tape just fits inside the damper body.
I set it up at 50.6mm and 250psi as per 2011-2012 monarch rt3 165x38. I am guessing the difference between the lowest point of the ifp and the shoulder might be a few mm. In which case I might get away with it as the 2010 Monarch 165x38 is supposed to be setup with ifp depth of 54mm and 250psi.
Anyone got any ideas whether this shock would be ok to ride how I have setup the ifp or should I just tear down and re do the ifp setup?

Thanks

Gav
 

NSDynamics

Farkin Advertiser
If your ifp is to deep your damper will ramp up to much or not achieve bottom out. If it is too high your piston will hit the ifp causing problems. You usually have a couple of mm to play with.

Set it to factory height, charge with 250psi then compress the damper to bottom out (without air can installed). If you get to much ramp set it higher and vice versa.

You can clamp it in your vice and push down to test. If time is on your side you can bolt it into the frame to test.


Good luck.
 

SummitFever

Eats Squid
It's probably going to be OK if your measurements are accurate. Like NS Dynamics says, check that the shock will cycle without hydraulic lock or piston impacting IFP.

How did you do the bleed? If you don't have the RS damper body clamp blocks, the IFP can move if you follow the bleed process in the SRAM manuals. You can get a good bleed by filling all of the holes in the piston and rebound rod with a syringe and then soaking in a cup or container filled with a few cm of fluid. Fill damper body full and then transfer piston / top assembly quickly to the damper body.
 

fedor346

Likes Dirt
re: shock works fine

Hi guys,

Thanks for replying to my thread. Have taken the bike on a couple rides since rebuild, it's smoother, plusher and so far gets about 80% travel but my forks get roughly that as well. If anything I probably have more beef with the sid rlt's that's paired with this shock but I'll keep that to another thread. It's not a bad fork - just that when your other bike has pikes you really notice the difference.

NSdynamics,
thanks for the info. Shock is fairly progressive - though I suspect more so since I have a low volume sleeve. Would prefer a high volume with spacers but this still works fairly well. I actually installed it and cycled it on the frame to test prior to riding seemed fine. The problem with setting to factory specs for this shock is that they did several revisions of ifp depth ranging from 49mm to 54mm and ifp pressures from 250psi to 350psi. I might try and re do it to another years specs just to test the difference next month.

SummitFever,
yeah had no hydraulic lock and no hitting of ifp so just rode it.
Regarding bleed blocks I admit I didn't use them. Though I found a trick on mtbr that worked pretty well. I put the ifp fill valve back in place after setting the ifp depth. Try moving it after placing the valve in - ain't gonna move from some damper fluid - good test for the ifp piston seal too. Apart from that I just followed the sram instructions though I did soak the damper piston prior to install.

Link1896,
what ifp pressure did you try?
There's a relationship between ifp depth and psi. When I was filling the ifp - it so didn't want more psi than 250 though I didn't really want more existing progression or more platform from this shock either.

shake,
Trial and error can be fun I just don't like things breaking because of my mechanical skills.

cheers,

Gav
 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
Sorry, my ifp monkey business was a DT Swiss shock a couple years ago after I couldn't find service info and was rushing.

NS Dynamics suggestion of experimenting with shock mounted to bike without air pressure and testing IFP pressure and depth is your best option.
 
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