Does anybody know whats in the guts of these RST alfalfas? I have wound the preload compression (LH dial) as hard as it will go... But they are still too soft :? What to do??? Any advice?? I assume the LH dial is threaded and compresses the spring... Was thinking of just packing it out to pre load it a bit more?? Just to get me by for now. Suggestions please? I am doing a big ride tomorow and would like to fix it before then if I can :wink:
My Alfalfas are too soft :( What to do??
- Thread starter MrPlow
- Start date
You don't know what's inside them? Upping the compression will not make them stiffer, cranking the preload knob does. If your forks are preloaded as far as they'll go yet still soft, pull them apart and stick a space in the spring stack. Unwind the preload knob, space it out, and squash it all down whilst you tighten the cap back on, then crank up the preload again.
fastrider gus
super huck
throw them out..
Ty
Eats Squid
i didn't think they felt too bad, josh mentioned something about pouring oil down somewhere or some kind of dodgy 'woomba maintenance kept them feeling good.
Plow i think that bike had a bit pf play in the rear linkage that you may wanna check out. (also check out my handwork on the rear disc mount bolts)
Plow i think that bike had a bit pf play in the rear linkage that you may wanna check out. (also check out my handwork on the rear disc mount bolts)
ok. don't know if this is right for the year/model you have, and i haven't pulled a set of them apart myself, but here goes.....
aparrantly they run a combination of elastomer stack and spring.
when you undo the top cap (carefully cause it's under load) you should find that the spring/elastomer will just pop right up. you will then be able to see if it is connected to the top in any way, or if the preloader is simply a block that screws down onto the top of the stack. if it's attached you will have to undo the thread off the cap, and relase the circlip inside. the older model apparantly is NOT attached.
when you have the top cap off you will be able to remove the spring/elastomer stack by hand. geoff reckons the best place to put a spacer is at the bottom of the elastomers, between the spring spacer, and the last rubber. start with about 5-7 mm and work up from there.
now comes the interesting bit.....
older model judy tt coils are (i have been told) just about 5mm longer than the whole elastomer stack, and about 20% stiffer. so if you have/know of a set of old judys (or pretty much anything else i would guess, but he only mentioned judys) you can replace the elastomers completly, and get a better feel to boot.
i repeat that i do not have any first hand knowledge of this myself, but the guy i was talking to has been racing his for a cpl of seasons back home and reckons this was the way to go.
and in any case there should be no trouble in removing the top cap to have a look anyway, so go for it.
aparrantly they run a combination of elastomer stack and spring.
when you undo the top cap (carefully cause it's under load) you should find that the spring/elastomer will just pop right up. you will then be able to see if it is connected to the top in any way, or if the preloader is simply a block that screws down onto the top of the stack. if it's attached you will have to undo the thread off the cap, and relase the circlip inside. the older model apparantly is NOT attached.
when you have the top cap off you will be able to remove the spring/elastomer stack by hand. geoff reckons the best place to put a spacer is at the bottom of the elastomers, between the spring spacer, and the last rubber. start with about 5-7 mm and work up from there.
now comes the interesting bit.....
older model judy tt coils are (i have been told) just about 5mm longer than the whole elastomer stack, and about 20% stiffer. so if you have/know of a set of old judys (or pretty much anything else i would guess, but he only mentioned judys) you can replace the elastomers completly, and get a better feel to boot.
i repeat that i do not have any first hand knowledge of this myself, but the guy i was talking to has been racing his for a cpl of seasons back home and reckons this was the way to go.
and in any case there should be no trouble in removing the top cap to have a look anyway, so go for it.
Thanks guys, all fixed :wink: Nothing that a bit of broomstick won't fix :wink: .
The RST's are a spring/oil fork BTW, elastomer inside some spring stacks for progressive travel. I simply dropped the lower legs, removed the circlip outta the sprung leg (the other is the oil reservoir) took all the springs out, cut a bit of broomstick (40mm, bit too much actually) dropped it in the top of the fork and slapped it back together...Walla.
Yes the alfalfas have a very beefy 40mm leg, and 20mm through axle with V & disc compatibility...
I reckon it will be a long time before I will out-ride these forks, they are pretty smooth, just pack em with slippery stuff (by the looks of the internals, that must be the trik :wink: ).
If you want to see a photo goto post your rides :wink:
Yes the linkages are a little flogged, but I am already organising fully sealed bearings all round. Cheers again everybody Rik who linked me to the RST owners manual.
The RST's are a spring/oil fork BTW, elastomer inside some spring stacks for progressive travel. I simply dropped the lower legs, removed the circlip outta the sprung leg (the other is the oil reservoir) took all the springs out, cut a bit of broomstick (40mm, bit too much actually) dropped it in the top of the fork and slapped it back together...Walla.
Yes the alfalfas have a very beefy 40mm leg, and 20mm through axle with V & disc compatibility...
I reckon it will be a long time before I will out-ride these forks, they are pretty smooth, just pack em with slippery stuff (by the looks of the internals, that must be the trik :wink: ).
If you want to see a photo goto post your rides :wink:
Yes the linkages are a little flogged, but I am already organising fully sealed bearings all round. Cheers again everybody Rik who linked me to the RST owners manual.
No worries lupi :wink: Yes I will replace the spacer once I get it set right Bit too hard now :? Just a tad though.
I will try and get some pics on Farkin from my ride, won't be 'Phat snaps though" this bike is spinning me out so far... My last ride had cable discs and 3" travel front and rear. Way different to pilot :shock:
Bit too hard now :? Just a tad though.I will try and get some pics on Farkin from my ride, won't be 'Phat snaps though" this bike is spinning me out so far... My last ride had cable discs and 3" travel front and rear. Way different to pilot :shock:
heh, i know what you mean.
the last bike i had was an old giant atx900.
with 80mm x-flys.
i'm still way getting used to a bike that goes up and down this much.
that and i gotta stop trying to get out of trouble by nailing the (non-existant) throttle. D'oh!
what brake mount do you have on the back of yours, the original, or a custom job?
the last bike i had was an old giant atx900.
with 80mm x-flys.
i'm still way getting used to a bike that goes up and down this much.
that and i gotta stop trying to get out of trouble by nailing the (non-existant) throttle. D'oh!
what brake mount do you have on the back of yours, the original, or a custom job?