Need 7.5W fork oil for Marzocchi 55CR Anywhere in Melb sell it?

ForkinGreat

ForkinGreat

Knows his Brassica oleracea
All the moto shops I've called only seem to have 5W and 10W and suggest mixing 1/2 and 1/2.

would prefer to just get a litre of 7.5W Anywhere in melbourne worth calling?

Already tried 2 LBSs as well. no dice.
 
Juice Lubes do a 7.5wt and are available through mountain bikes direct. Not sure of a shop in Melbs that stocks them though...

Are you servicing the forks yourself? I might have to send you a pm to see how you go. I've got a set of 55CRs and would like to be able to at least change seals and alter the travel myself. Yet to crack them open yet though.
 
Motorex make 7.5wt, I've had a bottle in the workshop before.

Correction: I still have half a bottle of it in my workshop.
 
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Update... talked to a mate who said the Marz part # wasn't referring to oil weight.

Oil SAE 7,5 - Cod: 550013

Apparently it's closest to 10W Oil, which is easy to get at Moto shops.
 
http://www.peterverdone.com/ is a very handy reference to have.

His paragraph on marzocchi fluids is:

Stock oil is Spectro. Rumours of Silkolene causing problems in Marzocchi forks exist. Be careful using this mix.
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Marzocchi Oil- Marzocchi Bomber Factory Fork Oil comes stock in all bomber forks. It is synthetic and is labeled as being 7.5wt. While this oil can be ordered in the US, Marzocchi is basically repackaging Golden Spectro Cartridge Fork Fluid (125/150, Very Light). This oil is rated at 26.1 cSt@40C/5.25 cSt@100C/VI 150. A very similar oil to this is Maxima Racing Fork Fluid (125/150, 7wt). It would be preferred to run a mix of Red Line Synthetic Fork Oil of 37% Red Line (Light, Yellow) & 63% Red Line (Medium, Red). In the past I have found Marzocchi forks to work far better with a thicker oil in them.
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That's exactly the stuff I have at work. Seems to work pretty well, although I don't think I've ever used it straight; always either thinned with 2.5wt to make 5wt or used to thin 15wt down to 10wt.

PS: Don't currently have any in stock, only my workshop bottle, but can order in if you want. In SE Melbourne.
 
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It's best to work in centistokes (cSt), peterverdone's database should open your eyes to the clusterfuck that is "oil weight"

No dramas mixing oils to get the required viscosity, just don't shake the life out of it to mix and absorb a cubic meter of air into it.

Finding the original marz oil spec can be the hardest part.

Online moto dealers are your best bet for finding the oil(s) you want.
 
Holy crap - this is confusing. Sounds like it would be easier to just collect some rainbow unicorn tears and use those. Assuming it's a high plains unicorn and not from the valleys.
 
yuley95 said:
Holy crap - this is confusing. Sounds like it would be easier to just collect some rainbow unicorn tears and use those. Assuming it's a high plains unicorn and not from the valleys.
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Thankfully PVD has laid it all out, in a reasonably easy to understand chart ranking fluid by cSt: http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid

As some old bastard used to say "Oils aren't the same as some of these other oils"

Another take on PVD's info is here, although it doesn't quite cover as many oils, its more of a graphical representation so you can see where the oil you need lies and which ones are similar enough in cSt and viscosity index: http://i41.tinypic.com/25qpx81.png
 
shmity said:
Thankfully PVD has laid it all out, in a reasonably easy to understand chart ranking fluid by cSt: http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid

As some old bastard used to say "Oils aren't the same as some of these other oils"

Another take on PVD's info is here, although it doesn't quite cover as many oils, its more of a graphical representation so you can see where the oil you need lies and which ones are similar enough in cSt and viscosity index: http://i41.tinypic.com/25qpx81.png
Click to expand...


I found a lot of PVD's database to be out of date, when I went chasing down PDS' for oils, many had been re-jigged or obsolete/superseded. I'd treat it as a starting point.
 
link1896 said:
I found a lot of PVD's database to be out of date, when I went chasing down PDS' for oils, many had been re-jigged or obsolete/superseded. I'd treat it as a starting point.
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ORLY, good to know. You'd think that would be the thing they kept fucking consistent so you could, you know rely on them.
 
That's chart is very handy. Just out of curiosity, what sort of temperatures does the average weekend warrior generate within a fork?
 
A fork has plenty of oil in the damper and a lot of surface area to cool down. You'd be hard pressed to get it more than 10-15 deg C above ambient. In truth, I've never noticed any forks warming up.

Rear shocks, on the other hand, can get quite warm. There is very little damping fluid in the first place and on air shocks in particular, the damper is insulated from radiating heat by the air spring which itself generates heat every time its compressed.
 
A less well-known fact is that suspension oils with a higher viscosity index (VI) tend to have inferior friction properties and inferior sliding performance, notably in bath applications where the damper oil is also the oil for lubrication of bushings in the lowers. This is why Fox for example provides separate oils for lubrication of fork lowers (eg. Fox Green, Fox Gold 20wt) - the separation allows fluid to be optimised for each application.

High-VI fluids like Silkolene RSF and Redline are excellent in sealed cartridge dampers like Fox FIT, Rockshox Charger, or any rear shock dampers. However they tend to increase stiction when used in fork lower lubrication.

For Marzocchi, something like Motul "Expert" works well as a combined damper and bath fluid, and is available at many moto shops. As a small saving grace, open bath forks tend to have a much higher fluid capacity, so VI (temperature-viscosity stability) isn't nearly as important as in smaller volume dampers.
 
Sooo, I am wishing to change the oil in my monster and can't find 7.5 weight oil locally. Yes, I could buy a 10 and a 5 and mix them together but it doubles the cost. That would leave a tonne of spare oil I will never use.

GoOgLiNg tells me some people use ATF which is apparently around 7.5, anyone done it and did it work. Cheers for any help. Will check shops physically today instead of online.
Also, would I notice much difference if I went 10 weight, I am not after super sensitive suspension, just suspension that will move through the travel. Cheerio
 
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