Need some ideas regarding a 1x10 system.

asambell

Likes Dirt
I'm looking at turning my current ride from a 2x9 setup into a 1x10 system. However, because of the trails I ride I might need to constantly change the front chain ring (before rides) between a 32t (hillier trails) and a 36t (flatter all-round trails).
I'm also thinking of running Narrow-Wide chain rings with a Blackspire Stinger chain tensioner and a non-clutched XT rear derailleur (I already have the Stinger chain tensioner, so I'm not going to waste any cash by purchasing one).

Is this common practice for 1x10 riders?
Any tips or suggestions?
(Hint: Don't suggest going a 1x11, as I just cannot afford it)
 

teK--

Eats Squid
No that's not common as the chain length would also be wrong at least half of the time. Choose one ring and stick to it.
 

Calvin27

Eats Squid
Swapping chains and chain rings is not ideal, If I had to do this, I'd just go 2x to be honest.

The thing with NW chain rings, they are expensive. Personally, I'd go for a clutch RD before I stump up cash for the NW chain ring. The added bonus of RD over NW chain rings is the RD will reduce slap. In your case the benefit is that while you try to find what size front to go with, you can do this with cheapo front chain rings instead of committing $70 each for every size NW that you bu. You can just try it with regular rings initially and it will still work if you have clutched RD. Later if you really want and have settled for a size, then pull the trigger on the NW. As for the tensioner, not required if you're running clutch RD imo, even less so with a NW.

I'm running a normal 33t chain ring with no tensioner and clutch RD and had no chain drops - chain line is a bit crap as well.

What bike do you have?
 

RaID

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Realistically go with one chainring rather then swapping between 32 and 36.

I used to run 1x9 now on a 1x11 setup both with a 32 front ring. Youre really unlikely to run out of gears 90% of the time on a 32t chainring unless you ride lots of sealed roads or fast fire roads.
If youre not worried about the low climbing gear then go with a 34.
 

T-Rex

Template denier
Split the difference. Put a 34t on and man up :)
This.

If you are riding really steep long stuff, get one of those 42t cop-out cogs* for the cassette.


*Someone help me with the correct name, I'v got one sitting on the workbench, never got around to fitting it.

EDIT: I think we are all assuming you are on 26" wheels, if not, please advise.
 

asambell

Likes Dirt
Realistically go with one chainring rather then swapping between 32 and 36.

I used to run 1x9 now on a 1x11 setup both with a 32 front ring. Youre really unlikely to run out of gears 90% of the time on a 32t chainring unless you ride lots of sealed roads or fast fire roads.
If youre not worried about the low climbing gear then go with a 34.
Yeah, I've heard that the most common front chain ring for a 1x10 or 1x11 setup is 32t. This looks like the appropriate setup for my rig. I think I'll go with the following: cassette - 11:42, front chain ring 32t.

I don't think I can afford a clutch rear derailleur, so I'm thinking of going a NW chain ring and Blackspire Stinger chain tensioner. Any thoughts?
 

Knuckles

Lives under a bridge
This.

If you are riding really steep long stuff, get one of those 42t cop-out cogs* for the cassette.


*Someone help me with the correct name, I'v got one sitting on the workbench, never got around to fitting it.
I think the term you are searching for is "Bitch Cog"

EDIT: I think we are all assuming you are on 26" wheels, if not, please advise.
Yeah, wheel size is important, the bigger the wheels, the smaller the ring you'll want.
 

asambell

Likes Dirt
Love my bitch cog :).

Coupled with 32T and 27.5 wheels I can climb almost anything that would otherwise blow your knees up and you should hike anyway.
Thanks TeK. Are you running 1x10 or 1x11? And did you go with a 40t or 42t 'bitch' cog? I'm thinking the 32t x 42t combo. This will give me a range to go (pretty much) anywhere.
 

T-Rex

Template denier
I'm thinking the 32t x 42t combo. This will give me a range to go (pretty much) anywhere.
On 26" wheels this will be very low gearing, you will spin out at pretty low speeds on flat ground. I'm on 26"' and my 1x10 with 34t front ring and 36t back ring takes me on any of the Mtb trails I've been to in NSW or Vic. I got the bitch cog for a specific climb in the Convict race which is 10% for about 1k, but didn't end up racing.

What tracks are you planning on riding?
 

asambell

Likes Dirt
On 26" wheels this will be very low gearing, you will spin out at pretty low speeds on flat ground. I'm on 26"' and my 1x10 with 34t front ring and 36t back ring takes me on any of the Mtb trails I've been to in NSW or Vic. I got the bitch cog for a specific climb in the Convict race which is 10% for about 1k, but didn't end up racing.

What tracks are you planning on riding?
Yeah, it's a hard decision to make. I ride very different terrain regularly like; Lysterfield, You Yangs, Arthur's Seat (Red Hill), Forrest, Woodend, and interested in riding Mt Buller/Bright/similar more regularly.
 

teK--

Eats Squid
Thanks TeK. Are you running 1x10 or 1x11? And did you go with a 40t or 42t 'bitch' cog? I'm thinking the 32t x 42t combo. This will give me a range to go (pretty much) anywhere.
1x10 with 32T and a 11-40TI

I only really ever use 8 of my gears maybe once a year at Mt Buller I'll use 10th gear and only barely get close to spinning on the fireroads.

If I had a 26" I would run a 34T front.
 

T-Rex

Template denier
Yeah, it's a hard decision to make. I ride very different terrain regularly like; Lysterfield, You Yangs, Arthur's Seat (Red Hill), Forrest, Woodend, and interested in riding Mt Buller/Bright/similar more regularly.
Of those I've ridden The Bright XC race track and most of Buller with the 34t ring. Maybe some Mexicans can chime in and advise how the climbing at those two venues compares to the other tracks you have listed.
 

Knuckles

Lives under a bridge
Go 34/42 and you should be right for the majority of that on 26",and still have plenty of bottom end for smooth descents.
 
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