No more need for a torque wrench?

[Flow-Rider]

It's interesting, but loctite recommend you don't change the torque value when using their stuff to get the right tension. And my understanding is that you should treat all bolt torque specs as being with grease or oil, because you should be doing that to minimise corrosion risk anyway.

The bike industry generally has little standards, some parts manufactures state lube, some don't. When you start getting to higher tension values lubing under the head of the bolt makes a big difference. A lot of bike bolts come with pre loctited threads, eg. rotor bolts and then people jamb them in a hole that's already got remnants of old loctitie in it.

 

[Dales Cannon]

Even that video bothers me. You dont spin a bolt without a washer. As above burrs and sharp edges screw with the real torque settings. When you are working with sensitive big equipment (guess a reactor containment vessel qualifies) you tighten to a torque then heat the bolt (hollow bolts or studs) to temperature and turn x degrees to get the required stretch. Doubt the local bolt shop has the bolts...

 

[ozzybmx]

Sure I respect that. And again, I understand the implications. For me, for carbon bits is a needed due to the characteristics of the material.
On alloy parts I've never used one.

Same, still dont use a torque wrench on carbon stem, bars, seat collar, seat clamp on carbon rails and the likes, 4nm-5nm is a click of the wrist.

I do use it on frame pivots, fork and shock bolts. Stripping a frame or breaking fork parts is not something I want to pay for.

Saying that, I currently have a Fox 32 rebound adjuster on the way from QLD, it was meant to be 6nm and broke before I got to tension on the bottom fork bolt, may have had a rock strike or something to crack the hollow thread.

Now about to learn how to rebuild a Fox Fit damper.