Opinions on the Subaru Forester
- Thread starter AngoXC
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AngoXC
Wheel size expert
Going for an MY01 Forester GX. Relativly low k's for its age though its, how would you put it, the 'higher' end of that range.
Conditon wise, its fantastic. Went for a test drive today...brilliant. The only thing, mechanically that I feel needs a check is a noise/vibration under hardish acceleration which sounds like the airbox vibrating in the front. (Sure enough, it's loose). From the looks of the service history, previous owner was rather merticulous with servicing which is a good thing...
Transmission is nice and smooth and clutch engaugment is concise...(that hillstart thing is pretty cool...), no ticks or cluncks on start up and idle sounds normal (Im told ticks are typical of shagged examples).
Only real problems as such are a faulty parking light, what looks to be slightly leaky CV joint (dealer is reparing this), lack of fuel release knob, a sticky lock and it had a screw in one of the back tyres, the cause of a slow leak...
The overhead clock doesnt work either which Im told is typical of 1st Gen Foresters...anyone confirm? Apparently its hardly even worth getting fixed.
Also, can anyone clarify the nature of the highbeams? I have been recommended to consider some sort of upgrade as they are rather weak apparently.
While it is a dealer car, he is getting all of this stuff repaired...which is awesome.
Thank you for your help guys! Much appreciated.
Conditon wise, its fantastic. Went for a test drive today...brilliant. The only thing, mechanically that I feel needs a check is a noise/vibration under hardish acceleration which sounds like the airbox vibrating in the front. (Sure enough, it's loose). From the looks of the service history, previous owner was rather merticulous with servicing which is a good thing...
Transmission is nice and smooth and clutch engaugment is concise...(that hillstart thing is pretty cool...), no ticks or cluncks on start up and idle sounds normal (Im told ticks are typical of shagged examples).
Only real problems as such are a faulty parking light, what looks to be slightly leaky CV joint (dealer is reparing this), lack of fuel release knob, a sticky lock and it had a screw in one of the back tyres, the cause of a slow leak...
The overhead clock doesnt work either which Im told is typical of 1st Gen Foresters...anyone confirm? Apparently its hardly even worth getting fixed.
Also, can anyone clarify the nature of the highbeams? I have been recommended to consider some sort of upgrade as they are rather weak apparently.
While it is a dealer car, he is getting all of this stuff repaired...which is awesome.
Thank you for your help guys! Much appreciated.
The overhead clock doesnt work either which Im told is typical of 1st Gen Foresters...anyone confirm? Apparently its hardly even worth getting fixed.
Just find some one who knows how to solder, there are a couple of dry joints that crack up, easy fix- cost me a six pack of beer (systems engineer, he builds radars instead of installing car radios).
Me- 98 Forester limited, 155000km, busted aerial, broken clock and thats it- make sure the top engine clean is done every service, Boxers can carbonise up fairly quickly if not looked after. Great car, no difference between wet and dry road handling IMHO with decent tyres on it, bit slow off the line, but if you want one that is quick off the line, dont buy an AWD car, simple really.
Enjoy, they do rock
Just find some one who knows how to solder, there are a couple of dry joints that crack up, easy fix- cost me a six pack of beer (systems engineer, he builds radars instead of installing car radios).
Me- 98 Forester limited, 155000km, busted aerial, broken clock and thats it- make sure the top engine clean is done every service, Boxers can carbonise up fairly quickly if not looked after. Great car, no difference between wet and dry road handling IMHO with decent tyres on it, bit slow off the line, but if you want one that is quick off the line, dont buy an AWD car, simple really.
Enjoy, they do rock
Ticks can be all sorts of things, same bad, some quite irrelevant. My advice would be to go over all those repairs and make sure they are done to your satisfaction. The tyre will probably get plugged (I'm assuming the screw was in the tread not the sidewall) to keep costs down as AWD cars need even tyre wear. The parking light fault will be a $20 switch, or the wire fallen off, and the door luck will probably just get sprayed full of WD40. At a guess (from several thousand km's away) he'll get those repairs done for under $500, so screw him on the price anyway, don't cop any gentlemen bullshit about doing you favours. I'm more inclined to think the clock is not worth fixing because it will dent his profit margin.
The CV joint leak is definitely worth checking, it might be a split boot or just a loose clamp. If its been leaking for a while it might need regreasing, not just sealing up. If the boot is split then the others are probably not far off splitting and are worth doing at the same time. If the clamp is loose, give it a good check for indications of shoddy workmanship. It might be nothing, but its cheapier to walk away now than buy a money pit. I suppose that all depends on whether you've signed anything, just don't be bullied into handing over the cheque until your happy.
On the gearbox meshing, I've had experience with synchros failing before the bearings, we ended up pinning it to an oil issue that can be climate related. You can get oils that are the same viscosity at temperature but are a little thinner when cold, which stops the bronze synchro cones getting pounded. There are a number of affordable quality gear oils on the market that have solved the problem for me bofore, personally I swear by Penrite.
Mr Sheen, what's the recommended oil for the manual transmission, or is it just a bad design like 2nd gear in the T56? I'm not trying to second guess you, just professional curiosity.
The CV joint leak is definitely worth checking, it might be a split boot or just a loose clamp. If its been leaking for a while it might need regreasing, not just sealing up. If the boot is split then the others are probably not far off splitting and are worth doing at the same time. If the clamp is loose, give it a good check for indications of shoddy workmanship. It might be nothing, but its cheapier to walk away now than buy a money pit. I suppose that all depends on whether you've signed anything, just don't be bullied into handing over the cheque until your happy.
On the gearbox meshing, I've had experience with synchros failing before the bearings, we ended up pinning it to an oil issue that can be climate related. You can get oils that are the same viscosity at temperature but are a little thinner when cold, which stops the bronze synchro cones getting pounded. There are a number of affordable quality gear oils on the market that have solved the problem for me bofore, personally I swear by Penrite.
Mr Sheen, what's the recommended oil for the manual transmission, or is it just a bad design like 2nd gear in the T56? I'm not trying to second guess you, just professional curiosity.
Get one with plenty of power if you want to go fast. Acceleration off the line in a (proper) AWD car is phenomenal. Traction > drivetrain losses on a fast start.
Extreme Hucker
Likes Dirt
True but didn't worry me. That is only a very small problem.
AngoXC
Wheel size expert
Ha. Me either. I have a really cool watch.
CV joint needed regreasing but wasnt spilt I dont think. We found a stone chip in the windscreen last week upon our initial inspection, and the dealer replaced the whole windsheild for us for yesterday's drive. The only other 'big' job sounds like the exhaust, which like the other model we had looked at, showed subtle signs of corrosion, though, apart from alot of dust and road grime on the underside of the vehicle, nothing to say its had anything to do with boats.
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Mr Sheen
Likes Dirt
I have found that Valvoline dura gear 75w-90 semi synthetic does a good job in Subaru manual boxes. I do , however work in a valvoline work shop but im sure any good quality semi syn or full syn gear oil in 75w-90 would do the same job. I would just stay away from cheap generic oils.
As for the clock , what some one said earlier is correct ,the get a dry joint on the circuit board. Very common and very easy fix. EDIT. I see smeck that your in north qld , so very different climate to the mountains where im form so what works for me may not be as good fo you up there.
As for the clock , what some one said earlier is correct ,the get a dry joint on the circuit board. Very common and very easy fix. EDIT. I see smeck that your in north qld , so very different climate to the mountains where im form so what works for me may not be as good fo you up there.
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Agreed on location, but I worked for many years in Wodonga and that's were the problems were. The amount of Hilux/Navara's with no synchro left in second was amazing, but the fix was the same oil your using, provided you got before the synchro cones were trashed. Not Valvoline though, (Ampol I think (many years ago)) but the same 75W/90 visocisty for the 80/90 specced boxes. I went to Penrite for its Extra light gearbox oil when the problem started occuring in manuals that specify an auto fluid. I've never been a fan of Dexron in manuals, and they shift noticeably better with the Penrite light weight oil.
The heat/humidity and subsequent corrosion are the issue here, and water ingress in oils. Aircon, cooling systems, dirty contacts from a lack of dielectric grease, and a continual flow of batteries.
The heat/humidity and subsequent corrosion are the issue here, and water ingress in oils. Aircon, cooling systems, dirty contacts from a lack of dielectric grease, and a continual flow of batteries.
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AngoXC
Wheel size expert
Ended up with the example above and absolutly loving it. New windshield, exhaust and tyres were installed by the dealer, as per RACV recommendations as well as all the little '$20 issues'. I had a little look at that clock and got it working so everything is all good.
Thanks for all the pointers everyone!
Just a question though for Forester drivers. (I do appoligse for the terminology here) Often, when say starting off from a slow roll (say at traffic lights or whatever), the vehicle struggles in second gear, at a speed I would consider to 'fast' for first. (Im guessing this is just the nature of the ratio?)
Anyways, when downshifting to first, the shift (mesh?) has become a little difficult (Im guessing, because Im too fast but its clearly too slow for second...either way, it should still shift right?)...would this be an idication that transmission fluid is not up to scratch? Or simply my driving technique?
Thanks for all the pointers everyone!
Just a question though for Forester drivers. (I do appoligse for the terminology here) Often, when say starting off from a slow roll (say at traffic lights or whatever), the vehicle struggles in second gear, at a speed I would consider to 'fast' for first. (Im guessing this is just the nature of the ratio?)
Anyways, when downshifting to first, the shift (mesh?) has become a little difficult (Im guessing, because Im too fast but its clearly too slow for second...either way, it should still shift right?)...would this be an idication that transmission fluid is not up to scratch? Or simply my driving technique?
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