plastic pivot 429

Big JD

Wheel size expert
looks good Eastie - if they have retained the stiffness of their alloy ones they are on a winner for enduros/xc. Like to see another inch of travel for more trail orientated allrounder. Love DW
 

Steve_N

Likes Dirt
Like the 429c, although in a different colour... Like a stealth black... :)

Also a fan of the Les (great name :-D). Lot of small innovations that I think will make a great riding frame...
 

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
PIVOT was all about the "pivot"..... DW link.

Not too much moving with the hard tail.

Im sure it will be nice though, another 29er hard tail made in asia..... excuse my excitement but every manufacturer has one this year.
 

Hugor

Likes Dirt
Like to see another inch of travel for more trail orientated allrounder. Love DW
Fairly massive rumours floating around at the moment that we will be seeeing such a beast shortly.

Cocailis Interview

I've just bought the new alloy and agree its such a stiff and efficient rear design.
I have personal biases against carbon at my size.
 

c3024446

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I'm sort-of hoping that my China 29er HT frame cracks so i can get a green Carbon 429. Never ridden one, but i just want one.
 

geoff_tewierik

Likes Dirt
There's still no green frames in the country.

I was told they'd be in at the end of this month.

Happy with the red and black one I've had since December.

In the article linked I did like his prediction about the electric suspension, which we now see on LaPierre's
 
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Slowman

Likes Dirt
Seems they come by default with 120mm travel forks

The build kits supplied from Jetblack spec a 120mm travel fork as the default. I want mine for XC and enduro so I'm thinking of getting a 100mm travel fork, what is the consensus here?

I am 6' and fit onto a Medium according to the Pivot fit guidelines and that falls into line with my current ride a Large Santa Cruz Blur XC Carbon. My concern is the BB height being too low if I go with 100mm fork...at 120mm 13"(331mm) is in line with a Specialized Epic.

Here's a table of geometry for both fork options:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2013 Pivot Mach 429 Carbon Geometry

Size Seat Tube---(eTT)-----Stack(S)----Reach(R)---(HT)-(HT°)------(ST°)-Chainstay(CS)--BB Height--Standover(SO)
100mm Travel Fork
S-----17.00------23.00------23.69------15.65------4.00--70.30------72.90------17.65-------12.75------27.70
M-----18.50------24.00------23.69------16.67------4.00--70.30------72.90------17.65-------12.75------29.30
L-----20.00------24.75------24.37------17.20 ------4.70--70.30------72.90------17.65-------12.75------29.30
XL----22.00------25.75------25.49------17.70-------5.90--70.30------72.90------17.65-------12.75------30.50
120mm Travel Fork
S-----17.00------23.00------23.96------15.24------4.00--69.30------71.90------17.65------13.00------28.00
M-----18.50------24.00------23.96------16.27------4.00--69.30------71.90------17.65------13.00------29.60
L-----20.00------24.75-------24.65------16.80------4.70--69.30------71.90------17.65------13.00------29.60
XL----22.00------25.60-------25.77------17.29------5.90--69.30------71.90------17.65------13.00------30.80
 
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pharmaboy

Eats Squid
Got the same problem - choice between 120 and 100. One option I've found is the dr Swiss twins hit at t7 - 120, switchable to 90 on the fly, similar to a talas but at xc weight

Personally I reckon I'll go for 100mm and if I want a higher front end , then change bar height
 

Hugor

Likes Dirt
I'm 6 foot and have just bought a medium alloy.
The 2013 alloy also came with a 120mm CTD. I think it rides really well this way.
I just did Bike Buller on it and was very impressed with its performance.
A good mate of mine has the 2012 that came with a 100 - 120 TALAS and also rode Buller with me.
He says he never feels the need to drop it to the 100mm setting even on the long steep techy climbs which Buller has plenty of.
I have no doubt that Pivot did all the necessary homework before speccing it this way.

I really don't know why they chose to equip the rear with the CTD. My LBS strongly advised leaving all the dampening open as the DW sorts out the rest.
I've just completed 250 off road kms on it and played around with the settings a lot. I tend to agree with them.
Seems they could have saved us some dough and equipped it with a plain old RP23.
 

creaky

XMAS Plumper
The build kits supplied from Jetblack spec a 120mm travel fork as the default. I want mine for XC and enduro so I'm thinking of getting a 100mm travel fork, what is the consensus here?
Get the 120mm ... you can always put the internal spacer in to reduce to 100m travel (easy as) with the option to go 120mm later if you prefer.
 

Slowman

Likes Dirt
Get the 120mm ... you can always put the internal spacer in to reduce to 100m travel (easy as) with the option to go 120mm later if you prefer.
Yeah the shop suggested the same thing but I don't see the point; same weight and same crown to axle length (I suspect - manufacturer's documentation is not too clear on this) and only 100mm travel. Unless I'm mistaken, I'd get the slacker geometry and extra weight without the benefit of the extra 20mm travel. If I'm going to go with 100mm travel I will get one that is lighter and shorter.
 

creaky

XMAS Plumper
Yeah the shop suggested the same thing but I don't see the point; same weight and same crown to axle length (I suspect - manufacturer's documentation is not too clear on this) and only 100mm travel. Unless I'm mistaken, I'd get the slacker geometry and extra weight without the benefit of the extra 20mm travel. If I'm going to go with 100mm travel I will get one that is lighter and shorter.
I'm afraid you are mistaken ... Same lowers for 100 and 120 so same axle to crown if both set at 100mm. Thus same geo when at 100mm travel.

You won't lose out having dropped 120s. You might even like them at 120 but either way it gives you the option and the change is only a 30min service away !
 

Slowman

Likes Dirt
I'm afraid you are mistaken ... Same lowers for 100 and 120 so same axle to crown if both set at 100mm. Thus same geo when at 100mm travel.

You won't lose out having dropped 120s. You might even like them at 120 but either way it gives you the option and the change is only a 30min service away !
Well not about the first part, that there is no point in reducing with a spacer as nothing is gained.

I believe this may be the case with the Fox F29 CTD 120 but Fox documentation states a weight of 1560g for F29 CTD 100 trail adjust 15QR tapered and 1800g for 120...so why is there a weight difference? Same lowers perhaps but longer stanchions? That leads me to think there is a difference somewhere with Fox.

Rockshox do 2 separate forks in the 26er SID range; an 80/100 and a 100/120 (that certainly used to be the way with dual air SIDs too) and I think it still might be the case with their 29er though they document only one weight of 1564g for 80/100/120.

1. http://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/sid-rlt
2. http://www.ridefox.com/filter.php?m=bike&t=forks&f1=wheel&v1=29&ref=topnav
 

creaky

XMAS Plumper
Slowman .... I could be wrong, never weighed or directly compared the internals of f29 100 vs 120. 250grams is a fair bit of weight to lose from 20mm of stanchion so, if weights quoted are correct, maybe there are other differences too ???
 

Slowman

Likes Dirt
Slowman .... I could be wrong, never weighed or directly compared the internals of f29 100 vs 120. 250grams is a fair bit of weight to lose from 20mm of stanchion so, if weights quoted are correct, maybe there are other differences too ???
Creaky, that's what I meant when I said the website documented specs are not clear. Perhaps when I have time I will download the PDF files of the specs...they should reveal the true picture (I hope) as they should be written more precisely and by the product designers as opposed to web page designers/marketeers.

Personally I prefer Rockshox forks, every set of Fox forks I've had developed oil leaks and air leaks - not bad but enough to be annoying, their seals seem to need replacing more often. I've never had a problem with RS seals except for the latest one I bought (2013 SID RLT solo air pushloc remote) the seal blew on the 2nd ride but replaced under warranty and all good ever since
 
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