Play in shimano freehub normal?

petertronica

petertronica

Likes Dirt
Hey Burners,

The hub is a shimano FH-M8010B 148x12 boost (XT hub).

I'm trying to track down an annoying creak. Just can't figure out where it's coming from. But then, in my investigation, I've found some play in the rear hub:

If I grab the top of the largest 46t cog (while the cassette is on), I can wiggle it back and forth at least 1mm, more like 2mm.

When I take the cassette off, turns out that the cassette is on tight, and the play is the freehub. I don't have a 15mm allan key so not sure if the freehub is screwed on to the correct torque, and having watched a quick service video, I'm not sure how game I am to take it off given there are 72 loose ball bearings inside.

I don't know if there's supposed to be a bit of give, of if something inside is loose? Anyone know?

If it's loose, I'm wondering if this could be the source of the creak...

Thanks in advance!
 
DMan

DMan

shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
petertronica said:
Hey Burners,

The hub is a shimano FH-M8010B 148x12 boost (XT hub).

I'm trying to track down an annoying creak. Just can't figure out where it's coming from. But then, in my investigation, I've found some play in the rear hub:

If I grab the top of the largest 46t cog (while the cassette is on), I can wiggle it back and forth at least 1mm, more like 2mm.

When I take the cassette off, turns out that the cassette is on tight, and the play is the freehub. I don't have a 15mm allan key so not sure if the freehub is screwed on to the correct torque, and having watched a quick service video, I'm not sure how game I am to take it off given there are 72 loose ball bearings inside.

I don't know if there's supposed to be a bit of give, of if something inside is loose? Anyone know?

If it's loose, I'm wondering if this could be the source of the creak...

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
It'll be the interface between the driver and the hub. If you take the cir-clip off carefully and remove the driver you can put some grease on it. I had to do it a few months ago but haven't had to since.
 
petertronica

petertronica

Likes Dirt
DMan said:
It'll be the interface between the driver and the hub. If you take the cir-clip off carefully and remove the driver you can put some grease on it. I had to do it a few months ago but haven't had to since.
Click to expand...
It looks like I need a 15mm allan key to take it off, is that right? Is that the bit that's loose?

In this guys video at 3:40 he uses the 15mm to take it off, and it's done up with some massive torque...
 
DMan

DMan

shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
petertronica said:
It looks like I need a 15mm allan key to take it off, is that right? Is that the bit that's loose?

In this guys video at 3:40 he uses the 15mm to take it off, and it's done up with some massive torque...
Click to expand...
The hub driver has a cir-clip in the front of it that needs to come out. Then the hub driver slides off
www.ambmag.com.au

WORKSHOP: Servicing a Shimano Micro Spline freehub

Get your Micro Spline free hub running smooth with our servicing guide!
www.ambmag.com.au www.ambmag.com.au
In the 6th picture you'll see him sliding the driver off. Put a little grease on that face that goes against the hub.
 
DMan

DMan

shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
Waaaaaaaait. Sorry, for some reason I thought this was a micro-spline hub. My bad. Disregard my dribblings
 
petertronica

petertronica

Likes Dirt
DMan said:
The hub driver has a cir-clip in the front of it that needs to come out. Then the hub driver slides off
www.ambmag.com.au

WORKSHOP: Servicing a Shimano Micro Spline freehub

Get your Micro Spline free hub running smooth with our servicing guide!
www.ambmag.com.au www.ambmag.com.au
In the 6th picture you'll see him sliding the driver off. Put a little grease on that face that goes against the hub.
Click to expand...
Sorry I should have specified, it has an 'old school' 9-10-11 speed freehub, not micro-spline.
 
Staunch

Staunch

Eats Squid
That 'play' in the freehub itself tends to be really common in the cheaper loose bearing hubs. While the rest of Shimano's XT gear is pretty good, I'm not sure how highly I'd rate the hubs. If it's a standard splined freehub, the play may just be part of it and there isn't much you can do about it.

With all that said, I don't have any experince specifically with a FH-M8010B hub so I'm not what the actual quality of them is supposed to be like.
 
Flow-Rider

Flow-Rider

Burner
Staunch said:
That 'play' in the freehub itself tends to be really common in the cheaper loose bearing hubs. While the rest of Shimano's XT gear is pretty good, I'm not sure how highly I'd rate the hubs. If it's a standard splined freehub, the play may just be part of it and there isn't much you can do about it.

With all that said, I don't have any experince specifically with a FH-M8010B hub so I'm not what the actual quality of them is supposed to be like.
Click to expand...
1~2MM of play in the freehub will usually causes havoc in the shifting.
 
The Duckmeister

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
A small amount of play in the freewheel body is quite normal; I've got four sets of hubs from SLX up to XTR, and they all do it. The big rear sprocket does accentuate it.

How does it sound when freewheeling? If it's rough & grumbly, but quiet when pedalling it's a sign the freewheel body bearings (captive inside the body & not serviceable) are fried, and you need a new one. The freewheel bodies for M788 and M8010, standard and Boost, are the same.
 
Flow-Rider

Flow-Rider

Burner
The Duckmeister said:
A small amount of play in the freewheel body is quite normal; I've got four sets of hubs from SLX up to XTR, and they all do it. The big rear sprocket does accentuate it.

How does it sound when freewheeling? If it's rough & grumbly, but quiet when pedalling it's a sign the freewheel body bearings (captive inside the body & not serviceable) are fried, and you need a new one. The freewheel bodies for M788 and M8010, standard and Boost, are the same.
Click to expand...
I try to shim all of mine down to under .5mm on a 36t cassette from new, the tolerances are so bad that some you can't because the free hub binds in one spot of the bearings, proves what junk they are.
 
petertronica

petertronica

Likes Dirt
The Duckmeister said:
A small amount of play in the freewheel body is quite normal; I've got four sets of hubs from SLX up to XTR, and they all do it. The big rear sprocket does accentuate it.

How does it sound when freewheeling? If it's rough & grumbly, but quiet when pedalling it's a sign the freewheel body bearings (captive inside the body & not serviceable) are fried, and you need a new one. The freewheel bodies for M788 and M8010, standard and Boost, are the same.
Click to expand...
Free-wheeling sounds good, decent bee whizz sounds, not as loud as some hubs but not rough or loud-quiet-loud.
I had an older 142mm xt hub and it was flawless. This one, not so much. Everything about it needs to be done up just tight enough or there's random play all over. Might go invest 8n a 15mm Allan key and see if that's loose.
 
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