Haakon
has an accommodating arse
I reckon sealing over the traces with an epoxy resin or something would be the permanent solution.
Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.
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#1 is building an off road trailer for his buggy. Way overkill in design and spec with airbag suspension in lieu of ramps. The suspension guys sent the wrong offset suspension arms so these have to go back and new ones on the way. How to easily load the old ones and pallet? We unpacked them one by one but they are awkward. Grab two offcuts from the drawbar, effectively 60x50x5 U shape. Wedge these in the 4in1 bucket on the tractor and have a quasi forklift. It works! Quick calcs show bucket can lift 250kg 500mm from the cutting edge and stay below kubota design loading. Offcuts good for 300kg with bending stress about 40% yield. Two tabs need to be welded on to stop the tynes falling out or moving back.
Huston we are good for launch! Rule 1 for driving a forklift, don't stick it anywhere it shouldn't go.
Huston we are good for launch! Rule 1 for driving a forklift, don't stick it anywhere it shouldn't go.
Flow-Rider
Burner
Dick Johnson has let himself go a bit, had to look twice to make sure it was him.
Haakon
has an accommodating arse
Neither of them look particularly comfortable… Must be such a pain lugging that gut around!
Flow-Rider
Burner
I can recall he was fairly thin up until I last saw him in his 40s, but I suppose it creeps up on you with old age.
Cousin whose nifty car trailer I borrow to ferry tractors around has a 2005 Jimny. It sat for a few months while he was away and when he came back the thing idled at 2,300 rpm. The world tells me that this is because the idle air control valve is cactus and Suzuki want almost $1k inc for a new one. The car is worth maybe $5k. Added to this the waterpump/alternator belt from 2005 committed hari kiri. So I bought belts and hoses and did the big change. Was going for the full flush but the thermostat is cleverly hidden under the inlet manifold and fuck that. Front wheel drive heredity of the engine. Anyway I pulled the controller for the iac valve without really knowing what I was looking at and blasted everything in the area with carby cleaner. Couldn't get the iac valve off without pulling more stuff than I wanted. Idle went from 2,000+ to about 1,400. I did some more searching and found a guy in the UK who had the same issue after a winter lay up and he pulled the throttle body and gave it and the iac a good thrashing. It seems that getting the throttle body with iac off was pretty simple so I did that this morning. Sure enough everything was gummed up. A new iac valve spins freely but this one was very sticky and would not turn 360 without some encouragement. So after a clean and scrape etc it spins like a top which is good apparently. Ready to go back but the sealing o ring has a snip out of it. Not sure if it was me or like that but anyway I am not putting that back when a new o ring is $13. Just have to wait until tomorrow for it to get to the workshop from the warehouse. Oh and the sucky line to the filter split. Another quality 2005 product so that will get replaced too. All up it was 10 minutes to get the throttle body off and about twice that to flush and clean the gubbins. So if you have a Jimny or Ignis or Swift with this same problem could well be a simple fix like this.
Mr Crudley
Glock in your sock
@Dales Cannon I, for one, also did some Jimny IAC cleaning on the weekend. I snagged another throttle body on FB marketplace that I cleaned up and installed. The worst thing with the IAC is that is has 5 point philips head screws designed for you not to remove the cover. Once you get that sorted then fiddling with the IAC wasn't too bad. The new to me throttle body I got also had the high idle issue where the IAC was held in the full open position and did about 1500rpm. I didn't remove the side cover thingy on the IAC as the bolts were not co-operating.
I cleaned up any carbon gunk or gum on the throttle body. A put some tape on the teeth of thin pilers and rotated the IAC gently while spraying bucket loads of throttle body cleaning through the upper idle bypass port. That seemed to free it up and it was spinning easily again. I also replaced the O ring with the closest size I had in the box o' O-Rings.
Put it all back together and the idle settled down immediately. All seems good. Time will tell but see how it goes.
Pic's or it didn't happen.
I cleaned up any carbon gunk or gum on the throttle body. A put some tape on the teeth of thin pilers and rotated the IAC gently while spraying bucket loads of throttle body cleaning through the upper idle bypass port. That seemed to free it up and it was spinning easily again. I also replaced the O ring with the closest size I had in the box o' O-Rings.
Put it all back together and the idle settled down immediately. All seems good. Time will tell but see how it goes.
Pic's or it didn't happen.
I didn't realise that the sucky tube was on the manifold not the Tb so I could have avoided that but a bit of 3.5mm hose and it is back to normal. Those iac screws were stupidly tight on this one too.
I bought a set of the drivers. Torx star 5 point they are called. Toledo do a set of several.
Mr Crudley
Glock in your sock
I was going to take the manifold off also since it seemed like the right thing to do, but fortunately gave up on it. I used the T20 found here https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006224115373.html and it fits fine. If the bolt is willing to move is another story
I hope it is sorted now. It isn't that hard to fix but finding the problem took some time.
silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
What is it about Suzuki IAC valves? #1995VitaraOwner
Not sure because this is my first, mechanic mate has done a few on swifts. The configuration must make the valve vulnerable to build up from the egr. I posted because of the ludicrous price of genuine parts though evilbay specials are under $100. The belts and hoses were original and quite sad so well past their use by date.
Back in the Jurassic period wife wanted a Sierra but I couldn't get over how poorly it drove on the highway, short wheelbase, narrow track and underdamped cart springs made for an exciting drive. We bought a Feroza instead and that thing was brilliant by comparison. Just beach 4wding and it was so good. This jimny is better than the sierra was of my memory but still skittish.
Mr Crudley
Glock in your sock
I agree with all of this. The EGR leads to gumming up the IAC valve which appears as idle problems - too high, too low, rough idle, heisitating between idle and throttle etc. The EGR also messes up many other modern engines in similar ways where they need a good ol' fashioned degunking cleaning somewhere on the intake side at some point. None of it seems to be in easy to access spaces. The non OEM Suzuki parts don't have a great reputation. It is DIY fixable.
The Jimny is indeed an acquired taste. It does resemble riding a small underpowered animal at times. If you want a refined car then look elsewhere since it won't make you happy. Does have many pluses though once you accept the downsides. I can see why people love them and also hate them. You also have a shot at fixing it yourself which seems to be getting harder these days as cars evolve into iPhones on wheels. The lovely Mrs also likes small, odd quirky cars
When I first started work in warehouse I had a colleague that had a Sierra. He rolled it on its side at the lights on the way to the shop for lunch and a few fellow motorists helped to flip it back upright. Going for fatter tyres and hence bigger guards were supposed to help with this capsizing issue. Our Jimny has stayed upright so far but sure doesn't hang on around corner like the MPS.
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Flow-Rider
Burner
The new Jimnys definitely have a cult status, especially with the entry level groups and tow along grey nomads campervans. The price for such an underpowered car is ridiculous, definitely a candidate for aftermarket low boost turbo setup. The problem is if it's mainly a one occupant car and you're not towing there isn't much out there in the smaller size 4wd unless you buy some prehistoric Hilux.
It pays to run wynns fuel cleaner through them once a year, a lot of the gunk is valve reversion gasses. I don't think a lot of city driving does them much good either.
It pays to run wynns fuel cleaner through them once a year, a lot of the gunk is valve reversion gasses. I don't think a lot of city driving does them much good either.
silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
I've dosed the throttle body up a couple of times now with some of that foaming cleaner stuff. It did wonders to the thing. However, it's still got a miss when it's warm that could be something still gunked up in the fuel delivery and idle control or simply a worn valve (it has done 260,000 km after all). But since it still runs...why bugger about with spanners on it? Especially when the shed is already full of projects...
Flow-Rider
Burner
That shit fouls the spark plugs, you're meant to use it regularly or the excess build-up of carbon loosens up and ends up everywhere in the motor.
silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
I'm aware of that. It was my FiL's car in the city for 27 years before it came to us. It copped a blast before I did the plugs, rotor and leads as well. Still hasn't fully sorted the low wobbly idle when hot. Hence the thought about a leaky valve...
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
My Subie is the opposite - ridiculously pessimistic "low" fuel light that comes on when there's still more than 1/3 tank left!
Cardy George
Piercing rural members since 1981
I was curious about that. It's never been done to Mrs George's Colorado. Should I do a little bit at a time, or has that horse bolted?
Do it when you can. We have had 3 4JJs and they were clean compared to a 1KD without catch can for example.
