Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

top_dog

top_dog

Likes Dirt
brisneyland said:
Just need to do a wheel alignment.
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You can do it yourself pretty easily. Need some string, a good ruler and some alignment bars which you'll have to fabricate.

Do the corner weights if you can adjust your shocks. It'll make a world of difference, especially under brakes.

Oh just had a look at the technical rules and they are pretty tight. I found tidy one loop hole though:

trackattack said:
•A Larger radiator may be fitted provided that the original fixing points are used
•Radiator Hoses are free
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Mount the radiator at the back of the car on an angle, so it effectively becomes a wing. You could then fabricate a 'radiator shroud' (read wing) which would make the wing very effective indeed. Audi did this with the Quattro S1 back in the mid eighties and got away with it. It would improve the weight balance and increase downforce, if done right I think you could reduce drag as well. Use the original mounting points (as stipulated) to fix a blanking plate for the front intake where the radiator used to be. This will dramitcally increase downforce and reduce drag at the front end also. A win win.

As a plan B, if that gets knocked back, a boot mounted oil cooler with shroud would be effective and would not be bending the rules at all like the rear mounted radiator. Another option would be to leave the original radiator at the front but disconnected and with a blanking plate over it. Just blanking off the front intake will gain you 5-10km/h down the straights for sure.

Also your rear mount battery is illegal.
 
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B

brisneyland

Likes Dirt
top_dog said:
You can do it yourself pretty easily. Need some string, a good ruler and some alignment bars which you'll have to fabricate.

Do the corner weights if you can adjust your shocks. It'll make a world of difference, especially under brakes.

Oh just had a look at the technical rules and they are pretty tight. I found tidy one loop hole though:



Mount the radiator at the back of the car on an angle, so it effectively becomes a wing. You could then fabricate a 'radiator shroud' (read wing) which would make the wing very effective indeed. Audi did this with the Quattro S1 back in the mid eighties and got away with it. It would improve the weight balance and increase downforce, if done right I think you could reduce drag as well. Use the original mounting points (as stipulated) to fix a blanking plate for the front intake where the radiator used to be. This will dramitcally increase downforce and reduce drag at the front end also. A win win.

As a plan B, if that gets knocked back, a boot mounted oil cooler with shroud would be effective and would not be bending the rules at all like the rear mounted radiator. Another option would be to leave the original radiator at the front but disconnected and with a blanking plate over it. Just blanking off the front intake will gain you 5-10km/h down the straights for sure.

Also your rear mount battery is illegal.
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Alignment - have been doing my own aligments that way already. Still a tedious job though.

Adjustable suspension not permitted - hence can't cornerweight.

Rad relocate/aero package not really within the spirit of the rules. And the rad rule says original mounts must be used. Blanking plate over the rad would constitute a body/aero mod and is thus not allowed.

You're right, the rules are pretty tight.

We can still do some work with basic setup before we look at anything too exotic anyway - we need shocks that actually work and a higher spring rate. And i've been meaning to measure up the suspension geometry and attempt to determine an optimum ride height and spring rate.

Battery - we relocated it before that rule came out. Jeff is thinking about relaxing it as long as it's done safely.
 
GOD12A

GOD12A

Likes Dirt
Heya guys,

You can corner weight a car by shimming up the stock struts between the chassis and top plate.
Easy to do and well within the rules as most older cars did this from the factory to help rectify out of tolerance bodies as they came off the line.
It will take a little longer than spannering some coilovers, but for a more balanced car, it must be done.
The best suspension in the world is useless if your car is corner weighted like a busted ass shopping trolley!!
Make sure you scale it in race trim. Half tank of juice, driver in position, correct tyre pressures etc etc
It’ll cost you a few hours, a case of beer and some pizzas when your mates drop over (I assume you can borrow some scales from someone).

I haven’t kept up with this build/thread. But some chassis strengthening is needed to use the corner scaled setup to it’s potential. Otherwise everything will move under load anyways.
Even some basic stitch welding will help if you haven’t got a weld-in cage (bolt-in does nothing for chassis rigidity)


On a side note, I’m looking to sell my RX3 and go tarmac rallying in the near future ;)
Should be fun!!

Mark :)
 
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brisneyland

Likes Dirt
Thanks mate that sounds interesting. I'll have a look around and see if anyone has some scales. We have a welded in four point cage which we'll eventually upgrade to a six point. We're not allowed to seam/plug weld.
 
top_dog

top_dog

Likes Dirt
brisneyland said:
Alignment - have been doing my own aligments that way already. Still a tedious job though.

Adjustable suspension not permitted - hence can't cornerweight.

Rad relocate/aero package not really within the spirit of the rules. And the rad rule says original mounts must be used. Blanking plate over the rad would constitute a body/aero mod and is thus not allowed.

You're right, the rules are pretty tight.

We can still do some work with basic setup before we look at anything too exotic anyway - we need shocks that actually work and a higher spring rate. And i've been meaning to measure up the suspension geometry and attempt to determine an optimum ride height and spring rate.

Battery - we relocated it before that rule came out. Jeff is thinking about relaxing it as long as it's done safely.
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Spirit of the rules meh. You're there to win. Toyota, Williams and Brawn all made double defusers out of 'deformable crash structures' and now everybody has double diffusers. Its the way it works. I realise that it says the original mounts must be used, doesn't say by what though.:rolleyes:Make the rules come to you. Its not cheating.

If you aren't allowed to blank the radiator, bend the desired number of fins over, it'll have (almost) the desired effect.

Or if you want to get sneaky spray paint some 0.8mm aluminium gloss black and attach it to the rear of the radiator. No one will see it and you'll be quicker. Result. That would be cheating though.

Just thinking you could drive the alternator off the rear wheel somehow to improve weight distribution.

Think outside the box and the tenths will come.:)

Found this photo of what I'm talking about. Perhaps don't build the big wing but the oil cooler on the boot with some shrouding is 100% legal.

 
GOD12A

GOD12A

Likes Dirt
brisneyland said:
Thanks mate that sounds interesting. I'll have a look around and see if anyone has some scales. We have a welded in four point cage which we'll eventually upgrade to a six point. We're not allowed to seam/plug weld.
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Easy as ;)
If you're going to a 6pt cage, tag that sucka to the chassis wherever possible. Mid and upper A-pillar, upper B-pillar and if you run a lower horizontal between the main hoop legs, try and tag that to the tunnel.
Sorry for schooling, but it's AMAZING how many people go to the extent of installing a rollcage and using it only for roll over protection?!?! Kids these days...

Mark :)
 
B

brisneyland

Likes Dirt
GOD12A said:
Easy as ;)
If you're going to a 6pt cage, tag that sucka to the chassis wherever possible. Mid and upper A-pillar, upper B-pillar and if you run a lower horizontal between the main hoop legs, try and tag that to the tunnel.
Sorry for schooling, but it's AMAZING how many people go to the extent of installing a rollcage and using it only for roll over protection?!?! Kids these days...

Mark :)
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Nah all good mate! Yeah we've been talking to the bloke who builds the cages and when we go to the six point it will be well tied in to the body. We've currently got a few points of the 4 point cage with tabs welded between cage and body. The difference in stiffness was easily noticeable even on a casual street drive.
 
fairy1

fairy1

Banned
Arrgh, Volva is spittin three codes now, got warnings for DSTC(traction cont, stability), bulb failure-no it hasn't, and I still have an airbag warning because I took the Climate Control Module out without disconnecting the batt.
Might be starting a new job next week so a Flash tuner/code clearer will be high on the priority list, then rotors and pads and then swaybars and a zorst.
 
fairy1

fairy1

Banned
Got a job now so the Volvo will finally get some new bits that it needs, I get the joyous task of maintaining dump trucks, sump pumps, etc.
 
Fixie God

Fixie God

Likes Dirt
Well I'm that keen for some racing where I can use my own car, sooo...

I've been looking around and apparently I can get a CAMS 2NS Lisence to begin with and race some Motorkhana and Autocross stuff, then work your way up. I may invest in a car long term depending on my success rate and how much fun it is.

You need a club membership as well though which has me stumped. Events are few and far between in Canberra as well. So some more research seems to be the go unless someone here can point me in the right direction??
 
Steve-0

Steve-0

Likes Bikes and Dirt
165 days till i can drive a turbocharged vehicle. My goal is to build a quick car that can handle well, it will be mainly a weekend car and track car. Also needs to be a relatively cheap buy in cost with plenty of parts available.

Been eyeing off an R32 GTS or a 180sx. I'd love a 200 but there all up at 13-20k. These are good times! next 6-months will be an absolute killer!
 
smiff123

smiff123

Likes Dirt
Im venturing into this thread again hoping not to get abused again because I have a few questions.

Does anyone know what I can do to fix this? Im completely out of ideas.

Window trim thats falling apart:



It also has really pointy edges where paint is coming off:


Does anyone know how to repair these stone chips?





Does anyone know how to repair these stone chips?
I also have swirls and light scratches all over the car. Is there a was I can fix this without a full respray?

And finally the trim on the bottom of the doors has fallen off:

Is there a way I can refix this onto the car?

Can anyone tell me how much window tint costs?
Is there a place where you can buy pre cut tints that i can put on myself?
And finally what's the darkest tint that you would suggest (should I go black or reflective)?

Cheers, Luke.
 
Steve-0

Steve-0

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Tint would be $200-$400 i think. Even less if you don't go full dark. I'm pretty sure (atleast in QLD) that reflective tint is illegal and IMO it looks like shit!! Also DO NOT DIY it.

Swirls in the paint sounds like yourself or previous owner/s don't give a fuck about car car and used bad products and/or auto car washers to get her looking shmick. Grab some quality cutting polish and quality polishing rags then cut and polish the paint back till its good. Then wax. Do abit of research on how to do it properly if your really serious but it should be fixable.

Stone chips i have no idea.. it's abit hard on a red car to get it looking ok without respraying the WHOLE car. You can always get the most affected panels resprayed but people that pay attention to detail can pick it from a mile away unless big dollars are spent.
 
IronPony

IronPony

Likes Bikes
I might be drunk but this seems like a good idea to me

take one tiny light van



Add one 12a rotary with a mild port



= WIN!....discuss?
 
Drew.

Drew.

Eats Squid
IronPony said:
I might be drunk but this seems like a good idea to me

take one tiny light van



Add one 12a rotary with a mild port



= WIN!....discuss?
Click to expand...
Oh god....

You're going to buy that van, and just put a 12a rotary in it? You do realise that's going to require pretty much a complete drivetrain replacement, from diff, to box, clutch etc. Bigger brakes if you don't ant to have to hook it into a corner and roll, strut bars/roll cage to stop the immense chassis flex you will experience, i could go on and on. Is it really worth putting that much effort into a car that will still probably suck! Oh, and P.S, i don't really think a van with a 12a in it is so much a sleeper, as soon as someone hears that rotary blipping away at 2k revs they'll know what's up.
 
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