Ford heaters usually get fairly hot, maybe the heater tap isn't opening all the way or something else is going on under the dash where the vents are sucking in cold air. I always check the functionality of thermostats before I put them in with boiling water.
I chucked the old one in a pot this morning and it was still working fine, the radiator is stone cold even after idling for 10 minutes.
It will have some type of thermostat bypass for the engine, if you drive the car it should cycle the hot water through the radiator
Does an FG even have a coolant flow tap for the heater core? Virtually no cars do, its only on really really old cars you'll find one - pretty much everything is constantly flowing coolant through the core and its redirection of the air over it or around it that turns heat on and off.
Yeah no taps on the Ford that’s why it’s usually the heater rod that goes, as it selects what air flow you as dictated by HIM unit.
That's fairly normal for a car that's started from cold and not under load. If it isn't overheating when you drive it the coolant must be circulating well through the radiator. If it's had dirty coolant in for a while some of the tubes could be blocked to cause the hot water not to flow through all of the tubes but I would expect it to run hot.
I haven't worked on a Ford since the BAs were new, I've not had one inkling of a problem with my 2 Subarus and now 14 years old. I'd buy another in a heartbeat.
We have owned it for 13 years and it’s never had a spanner to it, this is the first issue it’s had.
Already done both, did the module and heater rod first as they are the most common issues, then flushed the heater core when I changed the thermostat, water flow was good, I flushed the whole system. Really has me a little bit stumped
Although I'm suddenly thinking about the thicker shaft on the generic bolts and how they probably wont yield to torque the same as the factory ones, and maybe i should reuse the original ones. Sigh. Probably overthinking it, but will now proceed to spend a few hours reading up on the subject...Was in two minds about reusing main cap bolts, about 80 euros for a set of genuine ones didnt appeal and the general consensus with the reno peeps is theyre ok to reuse once. New rod bolts though.
Rob bolts are a pretty unique looking thing, but mains look normal - which they are and $13 for a set of 10 from the local bolt shop. Sweet
^ this guy knows what’s upGive 'em an extra burst of ugga duggas and send it!
If it's FT you know it's tight.
Normal… lol. Dealers really are a dodgy useless lot.Here I was thinking that headlight and blinker fluid was like a left handed screwdriver.
Until I bought at Mazda. Fahn 'ell. Have about 400ml of water in there hidden at the bottom after the big rain.
Mazda’s official line is that it is normal and the fix is to run the headlights for a while with the high beam blue removed to help the water evaporate.
Kaizen, Mazda. RTFM please.
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