Reaming & Dropper internal routing plan

phillynight

Likes Bikes
I've reamed the seat tube finally so it's a more normal 30.9mm. The only issue I faced was the reamer was only long enough to ream down 19cm into the tube and I had trouble finding any kind of extension that I felt comfortable with it not falling off inside the seattube. In the one pic you can see the 'ledge' where it stopped at 19cm down

I am going to try a few things this weekend to get that last 1cm that I want so that the Fox 125mm dropper can sit flush (it needs 20cm depth to be flush), but even if I can't it's not a huge deal, it's mostly for vanity sake so I can have the post base flush if I want it.

While I had the cranks/bb taken out I was looking at the angle from the seat tube to the down tube and it'd be about a 90degree angle. I have gotten a Jagwire "Dropper" cable which is supposed to be a bit more flexible than a normal shifter cable. Have any of you run a cable through the bottom bracket like this before? I expect that it will wear the cable much faster with the friction but I really don't want to drill 3 holes in the frame if I can get away with just one at the top of the downtube.

Thoughts?
 

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Oddjob

Can hench anywhere any time
Why not run a collar actuated dropper? You might be able to squeeze a 150mm dropper in as well.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 

PJO

in me vL comy
I'd be tempted to try to make a vee-brake noodle work for the BB cable bend.
I thought of this too, but then how would you pull the post and cable out to unhook the post from cable. The noodle would get stuck.
 

leitch

Feelin' a bit rrranty
I thought of this too, but then how would you pull the post and cable out to unhook the post from cable. The noodle would get stuck.
Ah yeah, so I'd be tempted to try but would probably fuck about for an hour before giving up :p

Might still be able to make it work here as the Fox posts have the cable anchor at the post, so you undo the cable at the lever and pull it through the housing to remove the post.
 

komdotkom

Likes Dirt
My young bloke's Commencal was a dog to get the dropper outer into, but we got there in the end. I used a bit of string and a vacuum cleaner to get the draw string into the right place, then taped it to a standard cable outer. There was some swearing and I placed a fatwa on the designers at Commencal, but got there in the end. No issues with abnormal cable or outer wear thus far, but that's with an X-Fusion post with a very light action I reckon a One-Up could be trouble.
 

yuley95

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I've reamed the seat tube finally so it's a more normal 30.9mm. The only issue I faced was the reamer was only long enough to ream down 19cm into the tube and I had trouble finding any kind of extension that I felt comfortable with it not falling off inside the seattube. In the one pic you can see the 'ledge' where it stopped at 19cm down

I am going to try a few things this weekend to get that last 1cm that I want so that the Fox 125mm dropper can sit flush (it needs 20cm depth to be flush), but even if I can't it's not a huge deal, it's mostly for vanity sake so I can have the post base flush if I want it.

While I had the cranks/bb taken out I was looking at the angle from the seat tube to the down tube and it'd be about a 90degree angle. I have gotten a Jagwire "Dropper" cable which is supposed to be a bit more flexible than a normal shifter cable. Have any of you run a cable through the bottom bracket like this before? I expect that it will wear the cable much faster with the friction but I really don't want to drill 3 holes in the frame if I can get away with just one at the top of the downtube.

Thoughts?
Can you clamp the bike upside down and use an extension to get the last 10mm? I won't 'fall' into the seat tube that way.
 

link1896

Wheel size expert
I've reamed the seat tube finally so it's a more normal 30.9mm. The only issue I faced was the reamer was only long enough to ream down 19cm into the tube and I had trouble finding any kind of extension that I felt comfortable with it not falling off inside the seattube. In the one pic you can see the 'ledge' where it stopped at 19cm down

I am going to try a few things this weekend to get that last 1cm that I want so that the Fox 125mm dropper can sit flush (it needs 20cm depth to be flush), but even if I can't it's not a huge deal, it's mostly for vanity sake so I can have the post base flush if I want it.

While I had the cranks/bb taken out I was looking at the angle from the seat tube to the down tube and it'd be about a 90degree angle. I have gotten a Jagwire "Dropper" cable which is supposed to be a bit more flexible than a normal shifter cable. Have any of you run a cable through the bottom bracket like this before? I expect that it will wear the cable much faster with the friction but I really don't want to drill 3 holes in the frame if I can get away with just one at the top of the downtube.

Thoughts?

12 point socket on an extension bar that fits the square end of the reamer nicely, silver duct tape the shit out of it. might work.
 

Dales Cannon

Deleted Banned Moderatuuur
Staff member
What is the end of the reamer like? As link said a socket extension is doable, even epoxy it on, you can remove it with some heat, force and special words.
 

phillynight

Likes Bikes
Can you clamp the bike upside down and use an extension to get the last 10mm? I won't 'fall' into the seat tube that way.
hmm good idea but I dunno mate maybe I am just a bitch I'm not sure I can handle spinning that reamer 75 times upsidedown while applying upward even pressure... My arm and hands are still sore from 4 days ago doing it rightside up with gravity on my side hahah


What is the end of the reamer like? As link said a socket extension is doable, even epoxy it on, you can remove it with some heat, force and special words.
It's a square, weird size too I can't really tell it's some bullshit american 17/32nd 1/2" 64/97ths weird shit like that. I measured and it's about 16mm square. I think I will try the nearest 12pt socket with duct tape, or I might even wedge a tiny piece of metal and smash the socket onto the square end so it's 'jammed' (will ruin the socket but who cares they are cheap). Can probably drop it from the balcony to get the socket off if I need to hahah

As for running around inside the BB... so I am not sure about the 'noodle' idea, that might work, but I guess I just have to see if the Jagwire dropper cable can do a 90 degree bend at that spot before going the noodle route. Is it okay if the cable touches the plastic sleeve inside the BB itself or does it have to stay away from that?
 

phillynight

Likes Bikes
Actually thinking about something like this to make the bend around the BB angle:

Would probably wrap it in electrical tape or something waterproof to keep it quiet so it's not banging around in there... thoughts?
 

Nambra

Postmeridian
Run the cable around the underside of the BB & use the BB sleeve as the minimum radius to prevent kinking at the ST/DT junction?
 

phillynight

Likes Bikes
hmm... I'm thinking more 'inside' the tubes of the frame... I have seen a few people do this but just wondering if the radius is too much for the cable (will it cause too much friction) and also I am wondering about the internal bottom bracket spindle plastic cover rubbing on the cable. I can't really find anyone who says much about doing it this way.. maybe it's a bad idea?
 

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beeb

cheese-muffled mooo
hmm... I'm thinking more 'inside' the tubes of the frame... I have seen a few people do this but just wondering if the radius is too much for the cable (will it cause too much friction) and also I am wondering about the internal bottom bracket spindle plastic cover rubbing on the cable. I can't really find anyone who says much about doing it this way.. maybe it's a bad idea?
A lot of stock frames are routes that way. I've only mucked around with one but it seemed to work no dramas. Thinking seriously before you go drilling into the downtube. Unsupported holes in aluminium are not ideal, and cracks are forever...
 

phillynight

Likes Bikes
A lot of stock frames are routes that way. I've only mucked around with one but it seemed to work no dramas. Thinking seriously before you go drilling into the downtube. Unsupported holes in aluminium are not ideal, and cracks are forever...
Def agree, that's one of the reasons I just want to do only one single hole up at the top of the downtube where the dropper cable can loop up to the bars. I am seeing that a lot of road bikes route through the BB also, always above the spindle, but it shows me that it's not a crazy idea. I guess I'll just go for it and see how it goes lol
 

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Isaakk

Likes Dirt
hmm... I'm thinking more 'inside' the tubes of the frame... I have seen a few people do this but just wondering if the radius is too much for the cable (will it cause too much friction) and also I am wondering about the internal bottom bracket spindle plastic cover rubbing on the cable. I can't really find anyone who says much about doing it this way.. maybe it's a bad idea?
Norco Sight is routed that way stock. (Bonus points to them making the tube junction razor sharp so it cuts the housing to bits when you try to pull it through. :rolleyes:) They are made a bit more roomy around the BB though, so YMMV.
 
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