Rear Cassette Question

Thomas11

Likes Dirt
Hello fellow forum friends.

Currently running a 1x10 shimano xt drivetrain with a 11-34t cog on the rear. (Giant trance 27.5 2)
My question is how much of a difference a 36 cog would be.
My fitness is pretty good and if I get out of the saddle I can pretty much chug up anything.
If I chuck a 11-36 cassette on how much difference would there be in the 34 vs 36???
Or is it a bit of a waste of money if I can chug up currently?
Would like to stay in the saddle for longer on climbs, don't want to change the front (32NW raceface single), and don't really want to spend all the money to sram x1 currently.
I also am not really interested in putting in one of those 42's.
 

agentninety3

Likes Dirt
If you can get up anything you want, I wouldn't bother.

There's 2 reasons for you to go a bigger cog at the back, and thus a smaller ratio:

1. If there's stuff you can't clear and you need a smaller gear to get up.
2. You want to put a bigger cog on the front end and thus get more top end speed when you're in the smaller cogs at the back, without sacrificing your climbing ratio.

It doesn't look like you want to do either, so again, I wouldn't bother.
 

ChopSticks

Banned
OP... if you arent struggling with the 11-32...then theres no need to change!

A benefit of a smaller cassette are slightly smoother gear changes due to the narrower ratio.... its also lighter (if that maters to you)

IMO the 2 teeth difference makes a massive difference..... then again... i got piss weak legs! so comes down to your fitness
 

Thomas11

Likes Dirt
Thanks for the advice guys.
My fitness is pretty good, due to the amounts of running I do, so my riding fitness will just continue to get better.
Ill stick with what I got for now as Im not struggling and will continue to improve.
Ill most likely run sram x1 next whip I get once I have saved my bum off 6 months (that's the plans anyway) so Ill saved my $$ and put towards that.



Keep rippin
 

teK--

Eats Squid
It is worthwhile to get a bigger cog just to save your knees.

You say you like to sit and spin but that is not the best way to pedal to avoid knee or back pain. Best to stand (which doesn't need as low a gear)
 

Thomas11

Likes Dirt
It is worthwhile to get a bigger cog just to save your knees.

You say you like to sit and spin but that is not the best way to pedal to avoid knee or back pain. Best to stand (which doesn't need as low a gear)
So your saying I'd be better off with a 34 front ring and spending more time out of the saddle???
 

Mywifesirrational

I however am very normal. Trust me.
It is worthwhile to get a bigger cog just to save your knees.

You say you like to sit and spin but that is not the best way to pedal to avoid knee or back pain. Best to stand (which doesn't need as low a gear)
This is pretty solid advice!

Any climb were you can sit and spin at a decent rpm is a climb that's not wearing out your knees. The only thing is it's a bit like smoking... takes years to catch up with you.
 

marc.r

Likes Dirt
you will be faster in general if you spend more time out of the saddle when climbing but the issue is that in some technical situations you might want to locate on the front end of the seat etc for weighting. further its good to be able to do both just incase a particular group of muscles is tired. i like to alternate and a 34 tooth really does make it difficult to do a seated tractor crawl in a seated position up techy climbs... that being said alot of modern short chain stay bikes wont allow this easily as your weight will be soo far back anyway.

an 11-36 wont make enough of a difference to make it worthwhile from an 11-34 i think. if you had an 11-32 yeah but not from a 34. I honestly would stick with the 32 tooth front and grab a 40 tooth cog for the top of your cassette. you wont be able to do a 42 as the jump from 34 will be too big but a 40 tooth should work fine with the mid cage xt mech
 
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agentninety3

Likes Dirt
It is worthwhile to get a bigger cog just to save your knees.

You say you like to sit and spin but that is not the best way to pedal to avoid knee or back pain. Best to stand (which doesn't need as low a gear)
Gripper with his itty bitty front ring might have something to say converse to that.
 

mtb101

Likes Bikes and Dirt
there's 2 reasons to go the 36, 1. is super steep terrain - if it can be ridden then the 36 is a good gear to have available - many times I will shift into it and then down once I know I've nailed the climb, 2 is endurance and spinning, if you hit a long steep climb ... off the seat burns energy, as much as pushing too big a gear, so on the seat is better for energy conservation as it allows you to spin rather than grind. Now easy to say 34 fine and it is but if you are doing a long ride/race over 50k, then the 36 will take the edge off loading your legs up early, so I think its worth putting on.
 

Thomas11

Likes Dirt
Are you sure you don't have a 36 already? I've got the same bike and they come stock with a 11-36.
http://tbsm.com.au/bikes/mountain-bike/am-dual/giant-2014-trance-27.5-2-17259
100% sure as I changed it to an XT 34 cassette, from the POS it comes with. Mine sounded horrible when shifting with resistance.

I think I'm going to just stick fat for now.
I don't time my rides so I'm not worried about getting up the hill quicker for time reasons, was more just a question to see how much of a peddling difference it makes on the climbs and if it would be noticeably easier, but sounds like it would be stuff all.

thanks for the advice guys.
 

The Duckmeister

Has stumpy thumbs, Speciaized are so weird
It is worthwhile to get a bigger cog just to save your knees.

You say you like to sit and spin but that is not the best way to pedal to avoid knee or back pain. Best to stand (which doesn't need as low a gear)
That is a big steaming pile of bullshit. Mashing too tall a gear (small sprocket) is a dead-cert way to stuff your knees up. Sure it's effective for short little pinches where you just need a little kick, but over long climbs it WILL do damage.
 

Thomas11

Likes Dirt
That is a big steaming pile of bullshit. Mashing too tall a gear (small sprocket) is a dead-cert way to stuff your knees up. Sure it's effective for short little pinches where you just need a little kick, but over long climbs it WILL do damage.
Yes, I would have thought sitting and spinning would put a shitload less pressure through your knees and ankles than being out of the saddle.
 
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