Rear tyre for stromlo??

S

spiderpig

Likes Dirt
I'm looking for a new tyre for my dualy and interested to hear from others on a decent rear tyre for stromlo etc.
I have previously tried the maxxis larsen folding, found it to be quite good but kept slicing the sidewalls to pieces on the rocks and getting alot of flats.
So i changed to a UST larsen with a thin tube, due to the thicker sidewalls and it has lasted longer but im still getting the ocasional pinch flat from the rocks. And its quite a heavy trye to push especially with a tube. I'm limited to tubes at this stage as the cost of a tubeless kit is not an option at the moment. I normally run 45psi in the back, what pressures do others run in their dualy?
So basicly looking for a good qaulity rear tyre that has reasonalbly tear resistant sidewalls and rolls pretty good....
 
G

gixer7

Likes Dirt
Have you thought about a ghetto tubeless option? Is pretty cheap - you just need a 20" tube + sealant.

I am running Rendez UST on my Trance and they are wicked around Stromlo. Great grip and roll well too - I run UST versions though so can't comment on the sidewall strength of tube type tyres.
 
cam-o

cam-o

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I use Mavic Crossmarks around Stromlo and am pretty happy with them.

Edit: Oops - Maxxis, not Mavic :eek:
 
Last edited:
DaGonz

DaGonz

Eats Squid
Pinch flats? Tearing sidewalls? I'm wondering if we're talking about the same Stromlo...

I've done a few races at stromlo with larasen Oriflames, Larsen TT's, Ritchey Z-mins, Conti Twister supersonic. All light weight race tires stansed up. I usually run between 28 and 30psi and weigh about 75-80kgs...

...I've never had a puncture or torn a sidewall.

my bias towards ritchey tires aside... I would have no hesitation in recommending a larsen TT exception for that place. The others were sketchy and fast, so if you don't mind sliding around then they're worth trying. IMHO that's the way to ride that place anyway; fast, loose and out of control! ;)

Cheers
Gonz
 
Steepy

Steepy

Likes Dirt
DaGonz said:
Pinch flats? Tearing sidewalls? I'm wondering if we're talking about the same Stromlo...
Click to expand...
Yes Stromlo can be very nasty when it comes to tyres, especially on some of the lesser used trails and on the Western side of the hill.

I was getting pinch flats galore but lately have had good results with a Crossmark UST on my Trance running at 42psi with a tube.
 
bforblack

bforblack

Squid
Gonz - you are right - but for some of us it seems thatStromlo just loves to slice tyres in a way that no other place can. Guess the rock gods are smiling on you up there.
For my $0.02, the Continental Speed King Protection is a reliable unit, and it loves the higher pressures. But I ride hardtail, so that might not be the one for a dually ...
 
S

spiderpig

Likes Dirt
Thanks for the replys, some good options to look into there. Yeah its mainly the western face, where the beginners down hill sections are and the more unused trails. Although i did manage to get one on the berm track the other day....
 
R

rangie

Likes Dirt
sb8

SB8's are a great rear or even front depending on style around there. Run non ust, max 30ish so kinda low for most folk I guess.

Is it me or a fair few flats seem to occur with higher pressures... ie. without tyre having any 'give' when encountering an object, the weaker object (tyre) looses out :-(

Not a 'local' at stromlo, so ymmv
 
krisko

krisko

Likes Dirt
Ghetto tubeless. You simply cant go wrong. The cost of 2 x 20" tubes cut with scissors down the middle, mount your tyre up add latex, stans etc and off you go.

Kenda tyres have better sidewalls IMHO over Maxxis especially for tubeless conversions. I would never run Maxxis exceptions tubeless. Simply to risky.Maxxis LUST are another story and I would reccomend the crossmarks in LUST for stromlo as well as Monorails LUST.

Having said this I have run WTB Nano raptors and Kenda small block 8 and karma tyres with no problems being non tubeless without any problems. The weight savings with Kenda's just makes the system a bonus.

The Kenda sB8 tubeless is just wrong its far too heavy at 850grams! compared to non tubeless at 450grams
 
S

spiderpig

Likes Dirt
krisko said:
Ghetto tubeless. You simply cant go wrong. The cost of 2 x 20" tubes cut with scissors down the middle, mount your tyre up add latex, stans etc and off you go.

Kenda tyres have better sidewalls IMHO over Maxxis especially for tubeless conversions. I would never run Maxxis exceptions tubeless. Simply to risky.Maxxis LUST are another story and I would reccomend the crossmarks in LUST for stromlo as well as Monorails LUST.

Having said this I have run WTB Nano raptors and Kenda small block 8 and karma tyres with no problems being non tubeless without any problems. The weight savings with Kenda's just makes the system a bonus.

The Kenda sB8 tubeless is just wrong its far too heavy at 850grams! compared to non tubeless at 450grams
Click to expand...
This Ghetto system sounds interesting, any links with pics etc to how its done?

So would you run something like a Kenda small block folding (non-tubeless) with this setup? 40-45psi ok?
 
G

gixer7

Likes Dirt
spiderpig - there is a really useful thread here on rotorburn titled "Tubeless - all you need to know" or something like that. Would assume its in the XC forum.

Find that thread and all your questions should be answered.

Also, there is a more recent thread titled "XC Tyres". The last dozen or so posts is talking about tubeless setups.

JD26 from that thread runs the standard Small Blocks tubeless and uses 26-29psi.

40-45psi would be far too high in my opinion unless you are a big clydesdale.
 
S

spiderpig

Likes Dirt
gixer7 said:
spiderpig - there is a really useful thread here on rotorburn titled "Tubeless - all you need to know" or something like that. Would assume its in the XC forum.

Find that thread and all your questions should be answered.

Also, there is a more recent thread titled "XC Tyres". The last dozen or so posts is talking about tubeless setups.

JD26 from that thread runs the standard Small Blocks tubeless and uses 26-29psi.

40-45psi would be far too high in my opinion unless you are a big clydesdale.
Click to expand...
Had a look at the xc tyres thread, seems like a couple of good options like the race king and the small block, but not much talk on the ghetto system specificaly.

Cant find the tubeless thread your talking about, any idea how old it is?

The main reason i run 40-45 in the back is to help with making it roll better (hope im on the right track there) and to stop the tyre folding on the rim when landing off decent jumps. Currently have Mavic cross-max rims (the ones with those flat, weird spokes). I found anything to much lower than 40 on the front i could really feel and hear the tyre folding hard on the front on jump landings, I weigh about 82kg.

So this ghetto option, is it like a backyard way of converting to tubeless cheaply? If so it sounds like me.
 
k3n!f

k3n!f

leaking out the other end
spiderpig said:
The main reason i run 40-45 in the back is to help with making it roll better (hope im on the right track there) and to stop the tyre folding on the rim when landing off decent jumps.
Click to expand...
Higher pressures don't roll faster off road. This is a common misconception that comes from road riding where higher pressures do roll faster.

I'll try to find you the article I read that explains this fully, but the short story is that lower pressures allow the tyre to conform more to the trail surface, which prevents the rider and the bike getting bounced around as much, which looses a lot of energy. Although you may feel faster as you are getting bounced around more and accelerate like buggery on the road, when the track gets bumpy larger tyres at lower pressures are the much faster option.

Here we go:

http://www.bicicletta.co.za/Downloadable docs/Rolling Resistance Eng illustrated.pdf

In relation to slashed sidewalls on tyres, I used to have heaps of problems when I ran 40PSI. Since I read the above article and changed to lower pressures (28-32PSI), I haven't had a single issue with sidewall slashes. I think this is because the tyres conform more to rocky surfaces instead of sliding off and slicing the sidewalls.

PS I changed to Stan's tubeless about 18 months ago, I will never ever change back to tubes. Disc brakes, clipless pedals, suspension and tubeless are the four upgrades that I will never change back from....

PPS If your running tubeless its almost impossible to get those pinch flats from landing heavily off jumps....
 
Last edited:
G

gixer7

Likes Dirt
spiderpig said:
Cant find the tubeless thread your talking about, any idea how old it is?

The main reason i run 40-45 in the back is to help with making it roll better (hope im on the right track there) and to stop the tyre folding on the rim when landing off decent jumps. Currently have Mavic cross-max rims (the ones with those flat, weird spokes). I found anything to much lower than 40 on the front i could really feel and hear the tyre folding hard on the front on jump landings, I weigh about 82kg.

So this ghetto option, is it like a backyard way of converting to tubeless cheaply? If so it sounds like me.
Click to expand...
http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86107&highlight=tubeless

How did you search for it? Took me all of 10 seconds after punching the word "tubeless" into the search engine.

Anyway, enough of me ranting at you. Yes ghetto is a cheap way of converting tubeless - I've not tried it myself but have spoken to people that swear by it - is something I will try in the off season this summer however. Read through the thread it will all be in there.

I will never go back to tubes after 3 years of tubeless.

And like k3n!f wrote - higher psi does not equal rolling faster offroad.

I gave this same advise to a mate who used to run 40 psi. Made him go down to 34 psi on the w/e and he was stoked how much better the bike felt and performed. Was easier on his body too. Its the little things!
 
M

mercman74

Squid
best tyre

i've got a shed full of tires that i have tried over the years. The only tyre i use now are Kenda Nevegal's. They are the best all round tire for the conditions around australia. I have found that in races most of the people flatting and tearing tires are riding on Maxxis. Dont get me wrong they arent a bad tire but to get the grip out of them you need to run them at a low pressure hence they are an easy pinch flat. I like the small bloc on the rear but lately i really like having good cornering (no need to skid if you can hold the line) direction from heaps of grip. I'm running Kenda Nevegal 1.9 front and rear and they are awesome. As light as a small block and nice and quick to peddle. They last for long time too. On stromlo there is heaps of grip running at 40psi. These tyres havent flatted since i've had them on and they have done the mont 24 hour and every other corc race this year....Do yourself a favour Nevegal up..
 
S

spiderpig

Likes Dirt
Well went shopping today and got some new tyres. Ended up getting some continentals, Race king protection 2.2 rear and a Mountain king 2.2 front. Both weigh in at 550 grams and seem to have pretty good sidewalls so should hopefuly make for a good tubeless tyre and not to heavy.
Bought a couple of 20" tubes, as i have Mavic crossmax UST rims (but with the valve core hole drilled to accept schrader valves) im gonna try the rim strip ghetto method first with no overhang and see how that goes. Sore in the bike shop today that stan's valves are available to fit the bigger hole in my rim, although its still a french valve fitting, but a bit expensive at $30 a pop!
So gonna go for a ride on the weekend with tubes in my new tyres to bed them in, then go for the tubeless setup and see what happens :rolleyes:
Will try lower pressures then i have been running, put them down to 38 rear and 34 front and see how that goes on the weekend with tubes.

Anyone know a good place to get latex, having some drama's getting it here in canberra?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top