Asininedrivel
caviar connoisseur
Following various threats by @Tubbsy that “quality” threads need to appear or he’s telling every child under 6 Santa isn’t real or something, here’s an incoherent and debatably useful ramble about my recent Europe jaunt that includes relevant mtb material and too many photos taken in portrait mode.
Leogang and Saalbach
Situated in Austria amid some sizey mountains, this region is banger. We had four full days here - two in Leogang and two in Saalbach-Hinterglemm, which took about an hour or so to get between via train. There is a way to ride between both areas via a section of lengthy trail that makes up part of “The Challenge”, but everyone we spoke to said it was an absolute **** of a traversy technical trail that was probably best done on an ebike (gross). Regardless, just staying within the area you’re located still gives you heaps of trails to ride.
The Epic Bikepark Leogang
We stayed in one of the many accommodation spots that are nestled right under the Riders Playground and L1 chairlift. As we didn’t bring bikes for this trip, we were at the mercy of what we could hire which turned out to be more confusing than anticipated. The sole rental company for the bike park had an Enduro bike option (Scott Ransom) and DH bike (Scott Gambler). While I gravitated (hur) towards the Ransom, we were told that Enduro bikes were not insured within the bike park and could only be used on the “single trails” just outside the bikepark.
I was rewarded with lots of frowning when I suggested perhaps I could just use the Enduro bike in the park anyway sans insurance. Um nein. Ok then but then if you rent a DH bike you’re limited to what’s in the park and can’t take it outside of it (which at least makes more sense as the single tracks aren’t chairlift accessible and do require a bit of pedalling). In addition, most hotels also have their own mtbs for hire but ours were absolutely verboten for bike park duties. However they remain a good option for plenty of more adventure trails that are littered all over the place outside of the park and in contrast to the official bike park bikes are dirt cheap to hire.
As we had no idea what we were doing, we paid for some Ransoms (hur) and went out to have a look at the single trails which promised a bit of a “gentle North Shore” vibe. This is probably the best time to have a word about trail gradings. As @Jpez mentioned in his Europe write up the grading system is a bit different from ours, with Blue = easy, Red = moderate and Black = expert.
These are misleading.
But we’ll get to that. I just took everyone at face value when they nodded and smiled and said “yes those gradings are 100% accurate” and off we went (worth noting that this visit to Leogang was a surprise for my birthday so I did zero research / watching videos of trails etc. ahead of arriving). I was riding with my girlfriend who is still very much at the beginner level hence the additional caution about trail gradings, but whatever anything below black should be fine let’s go. We did a couple of red trails (LE13 and LE15), which immediately proved their “moderate” rating was a house of lies with some of the most technical shit I have ever seen but with more gravity and death. Luckily I really like technical hand cut trails so I was in my element for most of it, but my poor gf took a couple of hits including a proper stall out tumble down an embankment. Luckily she’s a total trooper and didn’t get too psychologically dented by the experience.
These trails were a boatload of fun but never eased up, and I ended up having to awkwardly walk a few of the corners given my nosewheelie skills are non-existent and I couldn’t see any other way through, a notion affirmed when some lycra clad bandit on a XC looking blur proceeded to rip past us and nose pivot through every corner I subsequently waddled through. Way to make it obvious we don’t need 150mm+ travel bikes. Dick.
After that we went out and rode some of the other trails towards Fiberbrunn, which were considerably easier and more of an XC adventure vibe through continually brain melting scenery.
Going up
Day two was time to saddle up some Gamblers and hit the bike park itself. I won’t go into too much of the detail of the rest of the trails in the region as they’re all pretty easily Googleable, but given I was riding with someone who was starting to feel the effects of yesterday’s tumbles we stuck to the easier ones. First one was the only blue rated trail from the top, a 9km leviathan that was easily the best flow trail I’ve ever ridden. Unfortunately we got a heap of time chewed up stuck a third of the way down after a rider in front of us absolutely axed themselves and couldn’t be moved until they were helicoptered out with no way past them either. Pretty nasty. Happens all the time apparently.
Possibly maintained with hand scissors
In the time we had left I had a look at couple of black runs (lol no), tried out Hangman II (mega jump line) and got an uninterrupted 30 minute descent down Steinberg Line again. Not quite as much as I’d have like to have done (if I’d had the time again I’d have binned off the afternoon of exploring on day one for more shuttles in the Bikepark). Then it was onto Saalbach.
Conditions
We scored a week of perfect weather and Leogang was superb. If there’s a more manicured trail network I’ve yet to see it, even the rougher stuff was free of bomb holes and finding any braking bumps was a notable for how infrequent they were. In contrast all of Saalbach I rode was roooough. It’s a network that’s clearly been flogged all summer (at a guess because nearly all of the network is exposed and would dry heaps faster, whereas nearly all of Leogang was under tree cover). Braking bumps got properly sketchy in places, less so after I’d realised I’d initially left the shock in its firm setting in a move worthy of a COTF thesis given how close I got on one section to being spat into a fairly unyielding looking tree.
Despite this, I preferred Saalbach. The trails were sketchier but more fun, especially some of the red ones which swapped endless brake bumps for high-speed technical fuck-I-hope-this-is-the-right-line adrenaline hits. Also there were pubs scattered along the trails at Saalbach, a feature I never realised the world needed until now. Scenery was (slightly) better at the latter too, although both were insane. Trail design was superb everywhere too, even if I can’t vouch for any of the black runs as a nose into a few was sufficient to confirm I should find my fun elsewhere. A parachute might’ve helped for a couple of them (TBC).
Hiring bikes v BYO
Easy answer is if you’re here for a day or two, hire. Any longer and bringing your own bike starts stacking up given bike + gear hire for a day was averaging AUD $230-250. Plus acquainting yourself with both unfamiliar trails on bikes equipped with parts you don’t even recognise (wtf are Sram DB8s) slows down the fun a bit while you get to grips (hur) with your rental. If you do choose to rent the guys at Bikefurst in Saalbach were awesome, taking the time to help set up sag, tyre pressures, fit of protective gear and anything else asked of them. Plus on day two my girlfriend’s prospective steed broke so they apologetically offered a spare.
The spare:
Yes those are Cura 4s. Yes I was insanely f***ing jealous.
Leogang’s bike hire situation wasn’t as stellar. In addition to the aforementioned rules about what bike could be taken where, getting any of the disinterested teenagers vaguely working at any of the stations to give you more than “here’s your bike now f*** off” was a challenge, although the mechanics were happy to swap the brakes over. Call me a pansy foreigner, but I wouldn’t mind knowing things like what sag my bike is running or if it’s actually set up for my weight. I feel like details like that can make a difference sometimes. Anyway nvm, Leogang was still nuts.
As I understand it 99% of Austria is basically this
Costs
As mentioned, hire bikes and associated gear is up to $250 a day but that’s for everything, including a package deal on a bunch of shit I’d never worn before like elbow guards and body armour for the full Jerry Experience. You could probably save maybe $15-20 by just going for knee pads and a full-face helmet but given that modest saving and the speed you’ll be likely hitting stuff at in fairly short order it’s probably worth just getting everything. As my partner can unfortunately attest, the protective gear can make a big difference (for reference that rider who got helicoptered out wasn’t even in a full face).
Be warned the retail bike shop in Leogang is absolutely loaded with gear you never knew you desperately needed and is more than happy to help you with emotional purchases:
Bank account starts screaming in terror
Accommodation / transit etc. obviously varies a bit more but happy to discuss via PM for anyone interested. We didn’t hire a car but public transport was excellent, as was riding on the roads between towns / trail networks / chairlifts (trail etiquette is another issue but let’s just say Australia is ahead here). Most accommodation seemingly includes 2x full chairlifts (i.e. bottom to very top) of anywhere in the region per day. Extra chairlifts were around $35 from vague memory.
Worth asking what kind of rental bikes any prospective accommodation stocks as it differs a bit, with one hotel I rode past having a fleet of very tasty looking Commencals smothered in Ohlins.
Another notable was food / drink, which was at most on par with here and usually a fair whack cheaper, which surprised me. $8 pints is a world I’ll happily return too. Not sure it needs to be stated how good the food and drink is (hint: very).
A beer. Note drop in background (just above treeline)
In conclusion, despite respectfully suggesting that their trail designations be amended to Blue: fast, Red: alarming and Black: f*** off Australian; riding in Austria was a mind blowing experience. Can and will recommend. Will definitely go back, but armed with a hire car and at least one bike bag this time
Closest I’ve ever come to proposing to some rocks and dirt
Leogang and Saalbach
Situated in Austria amid some sizey mountains, this region is banger. We had four full days here - two in Leogang and two in Saalbach-Hinterglemm, which took about an hour or so to get between via train. There is a way to ride between both areas via a section of lengthy trail that makes up part of “The Challenge”, but everyone we spoke to said it was an absolute **** of a traversy technical trail that was probably best done on an ebike (gross). Regardless, just staying within the area you’re located still gives you heaps of trails to ride.
The Epic Bikepark Leogang
We stayed in one of the many accommodation spots that are nestled right under the Riders Playground and L1 chairlift. As we didn’t bring bikes for this trip, we were at the mercy of what we could hire which turned out to be more confusing than anticipated. The sole rental company for the bike park had an Enduro bike option (Scott Ransom) and DH bike (Scott Gambler). While I gravitated (hur) towards the Ransom, we were told that Enduro bikes were not insured within the bike park and could only be used on the “single trails” just outside the bikepark.
I was rewarded with lots of frowning when I suggested perhaps I could just use the Enduro bike in the park anyway sans insurance. Um nein. Ok then but then if you rent a DH bike you’re limited to what’s in the park and can’t take it outside of it (which at least makes more sense as the single tracks aren’t chairlift accessible and do require a bit of pedalling). In addition, most hotels also have their own mtbs for hire but ours were absolutely verboten for bike park duties. However they remain a good option for plenty of more adventure trails that are littered all over the place outside of the park and in contrast to the official bike park bikes are dirt cheap to hire.
As we had no idea what we were doing, we paid for some Ransoms (hur) and went out to have a look at the single trails which promised a bit of a “gentle North Shore” vibe. This is probably the best time to have a word about trail gradings. As @Jpez mentioned in his Europe write up the grading system is a bit different from ours, with Blue = easy, Red = moderate and Black = expert.
These are misleading.
But we’ll get to that. I just took everyone at face value when they nodded and smiled and said “yes those gradings are 100% accurate” and off we went (worth noting that this visit to Leogang was a surprise for my birthday so I did zero research / watching videos of trails etc. ahead of arriving). I was riding with my girlfriend who is still very much at the beginner level hence the additional caution about trail gradings, but whatever anything below black should be fine let’s go. We did a couple of red trails (LE13 and LE15), which immediately proved their “moderate” rating was a house of lies with some of the most technical shit I have ever seen but with more gravity and death. Luckily I really like technical hand cut trails so I was in my element for most of it, but my poor gf took a couple of hits including a proper stall out tumble down an embankment. Luckily she’s a total trooper and didn’t get too psychologically dented by the experience.
These trails were a boatload of fun but never eased up, and I ended up having to awkwardly walk a few of the corners given my nosewheelie skills are non-existent and I couldn’t see any other way through, a notion affirmed when some lycra clad bandit on a XC looking blur proceeded to rip past us and nose pivot through every corner I subsequently waddled through. Way to make it obvious we don’t need 150mm+ travel bikes. Dick.
After that we went out and rode some of the other trails towards Fiberbrunn, which were considerably easier and more of an XC adventure vibe through continually brain melting scenery.
Going up
Day two was time to saddle up some Gamblers and hit the bike park itself. I won’t go into too much of the detail of the rest of the trails in the region as they’re all pretty easily Googleable, but given I was riding with someone who was starting to feel the effects of yesterday’s tumbles we stuck to the easier ones. First one was the only blue rated trail from the top, a 9km leviathan that was easily the best flow trail I’ve ever ridden. Unfortunately we got a heap of time chewed up stuck a third of the way down after a rider in front of us absolutely axed themselves and couldn’t be moved until they were helicoptered out with no way past them either. Pretty nasty. Happens all the time apparently.
Possibly maintained with hand scissors
In the time we had left I had a look at couple of black runs (lol no), tried out Hangman II (mega jump line) and got an uninterrupted 30 minute descent down Steinberg Line again. Not quite as much as I’d have like to have done (if I’d had the time again I’d have binned off the afternoon of exploring on day one for more shuttles in the Bikepark). Then it was onto Saalbach.
Conditions
We scored a week of perfect weather and Leogang was superb. If there’s a more manicured trail network I’ve yet to see it, even the rougher stuff was free of bomb holes and finding any braking bumps was a notable for how infrequent they were. In contrast all of Saalbach I rode was roooough. It’s a network that’s clearly been flogged all summer (at a guess because nearly all of the network is exposed and would dry heaps faster, whereas nearly all of Leogang was under tree cover). Braking bumps got properly sketchy in places, less so after I’d realised I’d initially left the shock in its firm setting in a move worthy of a COTF thesis given how close I got on one section to being spat into a fairly unyielding looking tree.
Despite this, I preferred Saalbach. The trails were sketchier but more fun, especially some of the red ones which swapped endless brake bumps for high-speed technical fuck-I-hope-this-is-the-right-line adrenaline hits. Also there were pubs scattered along the trails at Saalbach, a feature I never realised the world needed until now. Scenery was (slightly) better at the latter too, although both were insane. Trail design was superb everywhere too, even if I can’t vouch for any of the black runs as a nose into a few was sufficient to confirm I should find my fun elsewhere. A parachute might’ve helped for a couple of them (TBC).
Hiring bikes v BYO
Easy answer is if you’re here for a day or two, hire. Any longer and bringing your own bike starts stacking up given bike + gear hire for a day was averaging AUD $230-250. Plus acquainting yourself with both unfamiliar trails on bikes equipped with parts you don’t even recognise (wtf are Sram DB8s) slows down the fun a bit while you get to grips (hur) with your rental. If you do choose to rent the guys at Bikefurst in Saalbach were awesome, taking the time to help set up sag, tyre pressures, fit of protective gear and anything else asked of them. Plus on day two my girlfriend’s prospective steed broke so they apologetically offered a spare.
The spare:
Yes those are Cura 4s. Yes I was insanely f***ing jealous.
Leogang’s bike hire situation wasn’t as stellar. In addition to the aforementioned rules about what bike could be taken where, getting any of the disinterested teenagers vaguely working at any of the stations to give you more than “here’s your bike now f*** off” was a challenge, although the mechanics were happy to swap the brakes over. Call me a pansy foreigner, but I wouldn’t mind knowing things like what sag my bike is running or if it’s actually set up for my weight. I feel like details like that can make a difference sometimes. Anyway nvm, Leogang was still nuts.
As I understand it 99% of Austria is basically this
Costs
As mentioned, hire bikes and associated gear is up to $250 a day but that’s for everything, including a package deal on a bunch of shit I’d never worn before like elbow guards and body armour for the full Jerry Experience. You could probably save maybe $15-20 by just going for knee pads and a full-face helmet but given that modest saving and the speed you’ll be likely hitting stuff at in fairly short order it’s probably worth just getting everything. As my partner can unfortunately attest, the protective gear can make a big difference (for reference that rider who got helicoptered out wasn’t even in a full face).
Be warned the retail bike shop in Leogang is absolutely loaded with gear you never knew you desperately needed and is more than happy to help you with emotional purchases:
Bank account starts screaming in terror
Accommodation / transit etc. obviously varies a bit more but happy to discuss via PM for anyone interested. We didn’t hire a car but public transport was excellent, as was riding on the roads between towns / trail networks / chairlifts (trail etiquette is another issue but let’s just say Australia is ahead here). Most accommodation seemingly includes 2x full chairlifts (i.e. bottom to very top) of anywhere in the region per day. Extra chairlifts were around $35 from vague memory.
Worth asking what kind of rental bikes any prospective accommodation stocks as it differs a bit, with one hotel I rode past having a fleet of very tasty looking Commencals smothered in Ohlins.
Another notable was food / drink, which was at most on par with here and usually a fair whack cheaper, which surprised me. $8 pints is a world I’ll happily return too. Not sure it needs to be stated how good the food and drink is (hint: very).
A beer. Note drop in background (just above treeline)
In conclusion, despite respectfully suggesting that their trail designations be amended to Blue: fast, Red: alarming and Black: f*** off Australian; riding in Austria was a mind blowing experience. Can and will recommend. Will definitely go back, but armed with a hire car and at least one bike bag this time
Closest I’ve ever come to proposing to some rocks and dirt
