Rooted pajero carby 1988,

[limeyfingers]

Hi guys, another car question for you. Just took the old pajero in for repairs and have been quoted $1000 to fix/replace the carby, seems pretty expensive imo, does that sound right or am I a special customer/ " fuckwit". After borrowing a acetylene torch to fix my radiator(I did it, yay) I was curious if I just got a second hand carb would it be an easy task to just bolt on, I realise that I may still have to fork over $s to get it set/adjusted. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[gee-aye-dee]

Forums are your friend here. Its relatively easy to remove/install the money is in the work though. Carbies aren't that cheap and neither is getting them rebuilt properly. Getting an old one may be luck of the draw too.

I would suggest removing it yourself and taking it to a carb specialist for a re-kit/re-build.

 

[stirk]

Carb replacement including new carb and labour that sounds reasonable.

Give recarb.com.au a call for ideas and options, throw a Weber on it, do it yourself it could be much cheaper than $1000. Even a replacement stock carb from a Wrecker would be the cheapest option and one you could do yourself in a couple of hours.

 

[spoozbucket]

I would imagine the rest of the car would be rooted too so $1000 would be a waste of money.

Did they say what was wrong with it, leaking, bushes worn etc?

If it is leaking you could fit a new gasket/seal kit, shouldn't be too hard for someone that is happy to pick up an Oxy.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubis...s-Canter-Pajero-Carburettor-Kit-/261196847216

EDIT- Scrap what I said, the carby is probably proper stuffed, did a bit of reading and a few people seem to swap them out for a decent one.

Should be a kit from Weber to fit- http://www.weberperformance.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=2_198&products_id=728
I'd imagine a member would be able to help for the price of beer.

 

[Freediver]

I'm guessing you went to a Mitsubishi dealer. Try going to a carby bloke for a rebuild or buy a kit and do it yourself, it's not hard.

 

[stirk]

Here, to give you an idea https://www.recarb.com.au/Weber-carburettor-conversion-Kit-Mitsubishi-Pajero-Triton-2

You could find cheaper on ebay or 4x4 forums and would just need manifold plate to suit.



Don't listen to spooz $1000 comment, old trucks are awesome!!

 

[spoozbucket]

If a Pajero is a truck I am lesbian dinosaur.

 

[stirk]

If a Pajero is a truck I am lesbian dinosaur.

A lickosaurus from the cuntateous period?

 

[Flow-Rider]

How do you know it's the carby that is screwed ? Have you checked all the basic stuff like, fuel filter, manifold air leaks, choke stuck on in the carby, spark plugs, disy cap and leads.

 

[steve jobs' pancreas]

6.6ltr duramax

 

[pink poodle]

As a same brand comparison, about a year ago I had the carry in my old van rebuilt for a couple of hundred $$$. It was a Mitsubishi, but mid 90s.

 

[limeyfingers]

How do you know it's the carby that is screwed ? Have you checked all the basic stuff like, fuel filter, manifold air leaks, choke stuck on in the carby, spark plugs, disy cap and leads.

In actual fact I have not checked all that, was taking it for granted they would at least diagnosed it properly. I am picking it up tomorrow so shall check it all(1000 is like winning lotto to me). I guess I cany fuk it up any more than it is.

 

[limeyfingers]

Probably should of explained more about the prob, when going up hills it coughs and splutters, had it stall on hills at times, sometimes it takes half an hour for restart then pulls uphill fine, other times it nearly dies uphill but a pullover to roadside it idles roughly for a couple of minutes then a cloud of black smoke then its fine. This always happens uphill not ever on flat road. It's not chomping oil or water,that's how the story goes

 

[redbruce]

As a same brand comparison, about a year ago I had the carry in my old van rebuilt for a couple of hundred $$$. It was a Mitsubishi, but mid 90s.

It really depends on damage.

A gasket kit and replacement along with a new needle and seat is the least you could expect. Cheap to do.

At that age the throttle spindles will most likely be worn, along with the spindle bushes. Still doable relatively (few hundred $$) cheaply.

If that has been the case for a while, the throttle plates put wear in the bore of the carb body and is irreparable.

I was in the trade in the 80"s and 90's. We used to replace the shit OEM carb with a Weber 24/36. Same went for Ford Courriers and Mazda Bravos of the era. They are about $220 new these days.

Probably should of explained more about the prob, when going up hills it coughs and splutters, had it stall on hills at times, sometimes it takes half an hour for restart then pulls uphill fine, other times it nearly dies uphill but a pullover to roadside it idles roughly for a couple of minutes then a cloud of black smoke then its fine. This always happens uphill not ever on flat road. It's not chomping oil or water,that's how the story goes

Check needle and seat. Other symptom is poor (rough and rich) idle and oil smelling a bit like petrol.

May be the critical fault at this point but repair needs to factor point above.

 

[Flow-Rider]

Probably should of explained more about the prob, when going up hills it coughs and splutters, had it stall on hills at times, sometimes it takes half an hour for restart then pulls uphill fine, other times it nearly dies uphill but a pullover to roadside it idles roughly for a couple of minutes then a cloud of black smoke then its fine. This always happens uphill not ever on flat road. It's not chomping oil or water,that's how the story goes

I would first check for water in the fuel tank or crap in the float bowl of the carby. Take the fuel filter off and blow its contents into a clean bucket and see if you have water in it. You might be able to remove the top, off the carby and look into the fuel bowl. Check that floats are not porous, level and blow through the main jet of the carby . Other than that it would require a full overhaul of the carby.

 

[spoozbucket]

Hmmm, that sounds like a blocked strainer or stuffed pump.

If there is an access panel to replace the pump I would remove that(if it is inside the vehicle) so you can hear the pump better. If it is the pump at fault it will make a higher pitch sound if it is starved of fuel when the problem arises, no pressure after the pump=no go.

Also could be the stuff the lads above said.

 

[limeyfingers]

Shall get back to you fellows after I check things tomorrow, cheers for giving me an idea of what to check

 

[Flow-Rider]

Hmmm, that sounds like a blocked strainer or stuffed pump..

I don't think its the pump, if it was, the car would stop revving on the flat when you rev the fork out of it, it's only doing it on a hill. Partially blocked strainer same thing, they run out of fuel when you rev the fork out of them on a flat road. There is a possibility when you go up a hill all the crap in the tank moves and gets sucked up by the strainer but small foreign particles will show up in the fuel filter if that's the case.

 

[spoozbucket]

I don't think its the pump, if it was, the car would stop revving on the flat when you rev the fork out of it, it's only doing it on a hill. Partially blocked strainer same thing, they run out of fuel when you rev the fork out of them on a flat road. There is a possibility when you go up a hill all the crap in the tank moves and gets sucked up by the strainer but small foreign particles will show up in the fuel filter if that's the case.

Yeah true, I forgot about the hill bit.

On my second Mini some muppet had fit an electric fuel pump which sat next to the exhaust and they fed the return back in to the inlet so if you went up a hill the fuel would boil in the pump and the engine would lean out.

On my shitty Falcon once my fuel got to a certain temp it would stop pumping which funnily enough happened the day after I bought it. I ended up checking my fuel pressure under load, fit a new filter, check pump voltage, checked the reg was working, checked injector and ignition operation and it was all fine.

Wasn't 'til it happened with my bike in the boot and I heard the pump that I realised what was going on, hitting the hills made it worse but yeah it would still happen on the flat when the speed dropped off.

 

[Flow-Rider]

Yeah true, I forgot about the hill bit.

On my second Mini some muppet had fit an electric fuel pump which sat next to the exhaust and they fed the return back in to the inlet so if you went up a hill the fuel would boil in the pump and the engine would lean out.

On my shitty Falcon once my fuel got to a certain temp it would stop pumping which funnily enough happened the day after I bought it. I ended up checking my fuel pressure under load, fit a new filter, check pump voltage, checked the reg was working, checked injector and ignition operation and it was all fine.

Wasn't 'til it happened with my bike in the boot and I heard the pump that I realised what was going on, hitting the hills made it worse but yeah it would still happen on the flat when the speed dropped off.

Most of the problems on cars are from human intervention or lack of maintenance, many moons ago I used diagnose fucked cars for a living. The best one was a whole shirt inside the intake plenum of a VS commodore that lacked power and had a miss because part of the shirt was under an intake valve. Owners had no idea how it got there, we initially thought it had a burnt valve.