Running a car with slow leaking radiator

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limeyfingers

Likes Dirt
Hi guys, I have a slow leak in my pajero radiator when under pressure right at the top( the crap for stopping leaks does not work). I have no loot to replace it until Friday, just wondering if the old loose cap is feasible to keep me going. I have a soldering iron so I could attempt to fix as its a metal radiator ( can't hurt to try) any tips ? Cheers limey
 
chaos99

chaos99

Likes Bikes
Where is it leaking from?

Under the bit the cap connects to?

If you want to fix that you will need more than a soldering iron
 
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Boom King

Boom King

downloaded a pic of moorey's bruised arse
limeyfingers said:
Hi guys, I have a slow leak in my pajero radiator when under pressure right at the top( the crap for stopping leaks does not work). I have no loot to replace it until Friday, just wondering if the old loose cap is feasible to keep me going. I have a soldering iron so I could attempt to fix as its a metal radiator ( can't hurt to try) any tips ? Cheers limey
Click to expand...

http://www.rescuetapeaustralia.com.au/
 
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limeyfingers

Likes Dirt
Back in the " good ol days " people said you could leave the cap loose so the water would circulate but not pressurise, any ideas if this is true or just a myth
 
Flow-Rider

Flow-Rider

Burner
You need to have clean water in there and get it up to running temp then pour the crap in to stop the leaks without burning yourself.
 
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SummitFever

Eats Squid
Never put any stop-leak stuff in your radiator. If the radiator has a small leak at the top of the tank, just keep an eye on the water level and keep it topped up until you can get the radiator fixed or replace it. The cooling system does not need to be under pressure if you keep the water temp below boiling point.

Also, don't trust your water temp gauge as way to see if the radiator is full of water. The placement of some temp sensors mean that they can run dry if the water level drops and then they read a lower temp.
 
link1896

link1896

Mr Greenfield
SummitFever said:
Never put any stop-leak stuff in your radiator. If the radiator has a small leak at the top of the tank, just keep an eye on the water level and keep it topped up until you can get the radiator fixed or replace it. The cooling system does not need to be under pressure if you keep the water temp below boiling point.

Also, don't trust your water temp gauge as way to see if the radiator is full of water. The placement of some temp sensors mean that they can run dry if the water level drops and then they read a lower temp.
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^^^^ this. Feather the throttle, a leak at the top can be babied, I did this as a teenager in my VK commodore for days. Don't drive during the warmest part of the day and don't trust temp gauge, I don't know where old projero sensor was but it's usually near the very top, it goes dry, gauge goes low.

The stop leak products are junk. Keep radiator cap on, you'd be amazed how much sloshes out when it's off.

Ive always loved pressure gauges for the cooling system, such piece of mind.
 
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limeyfingers

Likes Dirt
SummitFever said:
Also, don't trust your water temp gauge as way to see if the radiator is full of water. The placement of some temp sensors mean that they can run dry if the water level drops and then they read a lower temp.
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certainlylearned that when the prob happened, nearly cooked the fucker because of the gauge ( and my lack of attention to the vitals.
 
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limeyfingers

Likes Dirt
link1896 said:
^^^^ this. Feather the throttle, a leak at the top can be babied, I did this as a teenager in my VK commodore for days. Don't drive during the warmest part of the day and don't trust temp gauge, I don't know where old projero sensor was but it's usually near the very top, it goes dry, gauge goes low.

The stop leak products are junk. Keep radiator cap on, you'd be amazed how much sloshes out when it's off.

Ive always loved pressure gauges for the cooling system, such piece of mind.
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So I guess my trip to brisso is screwed, shall take on board the no loose cap. I guess wreckers have no guarantee/warranty if I buy one and its rooted
 
link1896

link1896

Mr Greenfield
limeyfingers said:
So I guess my trip to brisso is screwed, shall take on board the no loose cap. I guess wreckers have no guarantee/warranty if I buy one and its rooted
Click to expand...

Some wreckers will offer a 30 day warranty but their prices are usually 60% of a new non genuine radiator from experience
 
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SummitFever

Eats Squid
If the leak is a pin-hole in the tank end (not a leak in the solder) then you can do a quick and dirty fix with a steel self-tapper and some jointing compound. If its a leak in the solder then you really need a good propane torch (or MAPP, oxy/acet) to get the area hot enough to reflow the solder. Even so, without acid etching/cleaning and the proper flux it will be difficult. The leak is on the top, so complete removal of the radiator would not be required.
 
Kind_cir

Kind_cir

Likes Dirt
OLD TRICK... Worx awesome.

Make a paste out of dog poo and pepper. Have to mix it in your hands to get a consistent paste and it's best to use mustard colour poo. Once you mix this up in your hands the last thing your going to worry about is a little hole in ya radiator.


Problem solved

Your welcome.
 
Freediver

Freediver

I can go full Karen
The bush mechanic type fixes such as egg white, black pepper or Barrs are only to get you home, not meant to be permanent fixes. If you have a proper iron and torch not just a crappy electrical iron then a permanent fix is easy. I've never heard of using barkers' eggs before but let us know how it goes if you try it.
 
Flow-Rider

Flow-Rider

Burner
SummitFever said:
Never put any stop-leak stuff in your radiator. If the radiator has a small leak at the top of the tank, just keep an eye on the water level and keep it topped up until you can get the radiator fixed or replace it. The cooling system does not need to be under pressure if you keep the water temp below boiling point.
Click to expand...
Nothing is wrong with it if you use it for its intended use, I had chemi weld in a vn commodore for over 5 years to fix a heater core leak. If you follow the instructions it's fine, never leave it in there for more than 2 weeks and never let your radiator get down low to expose the tubes with air. As soon as the leak is fixed, remove and refill will coolant.

The problem with leaving a leak or the cap off on late model cars is that they run a very hot temp thermostat (around 90 deg. C and more ) and it doesn't take much to get the coolant further to the boiling point. Most people used to remove or drill holes in thermostats in the old days so you could get away with running the cap loose or on the second notch and the thermostats were a lot cooler to start with.
 
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Haakon

Haakon

has an accommodating arse
Depends if its a clean system... If so avoid additives, and cancel any long trips. Additives are a bastard to clean out and can just cause problems later. If its a clunker with a rusty gunked cooling system anyway, go for it!

Radiators are not worth replacing with second hand or repairing these days. Got one for my Mums crappy old Magna, cost me a hundred bucks on eBay brand new. Quality seems fine for a chinese cheapy but still way better than 80 bucks on an old unknown from a wrecker.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RADIATOR...355070?hash=item25ae51527e:g:rVUAAOSwEetV8nQT
 
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